Off to Florida

[Eaglesc]

Not me, the pen.
While at the IGIT gathering I sold a pen and took an order from one of the attendees.
The customer wanted a natural brass casing.
This is a Winchester 338, Parker refill.
(the bit of "blue" showing under the pen is a little masking tape to stop it from rolling.)
The background is grey taken in ntural light on a cloudy day.

 

[NCPete]

you mean you aren't going to personally deliver this one, too?

Nice pen!

 

[DaveO]

Eagle that's outsatnding....as usual. I wish I could see how you do your tenon that I have read about in so many of your posts giving casing pen advice. I am having a hard time picturing how that would work.
Dave

 

[Eaglesc]

Eagle that's outsatnding....as usual. I wish I could see how you do your tenon that I have read about in so many of your posts giving casing pen advice. I am having a hard time picturing how that would work.
Dave

OK, wait a minute

 

[Eaglesc]

Eagle that's outsatnding....as usual. I wish I could see how you do your tenon that I have read about in so many of your posts giving casing pen advice. I am having a hard time picturing how that would work.
Dave

Ok. here it is.
I don't make more"work" for myself unless there is a benifit.
There are very few adhesives that bond metal to metal, at least not something I can get easily.
When I first started trying to make casing pens two years ago I did it on the fly investigating and experimenting different ways.
The method I came up with was to drill out the primer end and make a wooden core for the casing.It is not as hard as it sounds, the two critical measurements are the neck and the primer opening and the point where the neck flares out.
After I made one that fit I dissassembled it and made a "gauge" block.
I make these cores out of hard maple. Using this method I can put a pen in just about any casing, the trick is to find the right sized components to match the casing opening as I do not resize the casings.I can adjust with a taper punch for minor irregularities, but remember these are actual casings not a lipstick tube made to look like a bullet pen.
I like the look of the nib on these as aopposed to drilling out the slug.You can buy pens like that for $10.00 off the net.
The thenon on the top shows attention to detail and makes the pen stronger at what would be it's weakest point.
The overall length of the casing is about 2&1/2 inches the same as a 30-06(+-).The tube for most Parker style pens is 2&3/8th's inches.
The tenon allows a good match between the top and the bottom.

 

[DaveO]

So there is enough thickness to the primer end of the casing to allow you to recess the wood sleeve enough to allow the tenon to sit in the casing and still have enough glue surface to anchor the sleeve and brass tube.
I think I get it now, thanks for taking the time to show that picture.
Dave

 

[Eaglesc]

So there is enough thickness to the primer end of the casing to allow you to recess the wood sleeve enough to allow the tenon to sit in the casing and still have enough glue surface to anchor the sleeve and brass tube.
I think I get it now, thanks for taking the time to show that picture.
Dave

If you make the core right there is no need to glue it in.
If you do glue it,a little epoxy on a swab at the flare of the casing before it narrows down to the neck is all that is needed.I do not use CA for this.
Insert epoxy on a swab from the primer end. Because I make all my casing pens this way I am careful not to hit the sides of the casing oterh in that location.
I can wipe off any that drips oout the neck but I do not want any near the transmission end.

The core is turned with the tube in it just as you would a pen blank.
Finding the right size to drill the casing is hit or miss.With hte correct size there is enough room to fit the transmission hold in the hole. the wood core centers it.
There is a lot of brass on the primer end but if you drill off center the end above the band will turn off.
I use a wooden sleeve in a 3/4 Beall collet chuck.Spline the sleeve after drilling for the casing.
The wood core for the collet will prevent the brass casing from getting scratched.
Drilling on the DP isn't accurate for me.
If I want precision(and I do) I drill on the lathe.

 

[MikeH]

If you make the core right there is no need to glue it in.
If you do glue it,a little epoxy on a swab at the flare of the casing before it narrows down to the neck is all that is needed.I do not use CA for this.
Insert epoxy on a swab from the primer end. Because I make all my casing pens this way I am careful not to hit the sides of the casing oterh in that location.
I can wipe off any that drips oout the neck but I do not want any near the transmission end.

The core is turned with the tube in it just as you would a pen blank.
Finding the right size to drill the casing is hit or miss.With hte correct size there is enough room to fit the transmission hold in the hole. the wood core centers it.
There is a lot of brass on the primer end but if you drill off center the end above the band will turn off.
I use a wooden sleeve in a 3/4 Beall collet chuck.Spline the sleeve after drilling for the casing.
The wood core for the collet will prevent the brass casing from getting scratched.
Drilling on the drillpress isn't accurate for me.
If I want precision(and I do) I drill on the lathe.

:eusa_thin