Kitchen build - materials

[EZC]

I am looking to add on to my kitchen. The existing boxes are all contractor grade which I will eventually replace but for now I need to add with some new uppers/lowers, and full height pantry cabinet.

I am looking for advice on the right materials for the build and the best place to get them.

Right now I am leaning towards 3/4 prefinished 1 side maple from Hardware store of NC in Gibonsville. It's a bit of a drive but one I am willing to make (or pay for their delivery). I will have the insides of the boxes a natural finish and any exposed sides, doors, and drawer fronts will be painted to match our existing cabinets which we refinished when we moved in.
These will be frameless carcasses.

That supplier does not offer anything smaller than the 3/4 in their prefinished maple plywood (at least as listed online), so I am wondering about the drawer box construction.
Would using baltic birch be a weird mix with the maple interiors? Capitol City Lumber in Raleigh carries a variety of thicknesses that I could use - 1/2 or 5/8.


Are there any other local sources for picking up good quality sheet goods?

Any tips for handling the prefinished sheets? If I pick up it will be in my pickup. Will the sheets be fine stacked/slid on top of one another or should some sort of barrier be placed to protect the finishes? This is my first time working with a prefinished product.

I appreciate any help!

 

[chris_goris]

Hi Cameron
I use their prefinished maple ply all the time and it is great stuff. I wouldnt worry about scratching it, its quite durable. If you should happen to, get a spray can of lacquer and just touch it up. I would use soft maple for the drawer boxes myself, but thats a personal preference. Good luck!

 

[Tim Sherwood]

I agree that the pre finished ply is a great choice for the cabinet boxes. I used 1/2" for the boxes and the drawers for our cherry cabinets. It is a lot less expensive than Baltic. It also gives you a lot of smaller pieces to nest with those big cabinet pieces.

 

[Skymaster]

Pre fin here all the time, 1/2 pre fin for drawers and backs and 3/4 for boxes.
http://www.hooddistribution.com/product-overview/mcewen-group-overview/

 

[JimD]

I've used a lot of 1/2 baltic birch for drawers in furniture and a kitchen island. I dovetail it. I cut it backwards to reduce splintering and like how it turns out. It isn't cheap but is cheaper and more convenient than solid wood.

 

[srhardwoods]

I cut a lot of prefinished ply on the CNC everyday for folks building their own cabinets. Prefinished will save you a lot of time, space and money. I mainly use Garnica, which has a poplar core, 2 extra ply's in the core and weighs 12 pounds a sheet lighter. You can get it in maple and birch, I prefer the look of the prefinished white birch. 3/4" for the carcass and 1/2" backs will allow you to not use a nailer and it is very strong.

Like others have said, if you get a little scratch, rattle can lacquer will blend right in.

 

[EZC]

Thanks everyone for the input. I ended up going with some 3/4" prefinished maple from Hardwood Store in Gibsonville.


Where else does everyone else get their pre-finished products? This is the first time I bought from this location. I would have expected a 3/4 sheet to have more plys (only has 5 not counting the thin veneers). Each sheet is oversized by a 1/2" in each direction, which is nice, but that extra 1/2 has lots of voids and general issues so I have to plan my cuts around that. Is that typical?

This location only had maple prefinished and only in 3/4 and 1/4.

 

[redknife]

I would have expected a 3/4 sheet to have more plys (only has 5 not counting the thin veneers). Each sheet is oversized by a 1/2" in each direction, which is nice, but that extra 1/2 has lots of voids and general issues so I have to plan my cuts around that. Is that typical?

I always plan on recutting the edge to provide a reliable straight edge. In my experience with the same product, you will find voids. Voids under the surface can be seen by closely inspecting the surface and then palpating to see if the area is also soft. You can usually plan your cuts around the areas. I fill voids on edges of importance with epoxy. All that said, I usually plan on some waste. Maybe others have had different experiences.

 

[Tom from Clayton]

Are the Hood Distribution locations retail or wholesale?

 

[srhardwoods]

Tom, Hood is supposed to be a wholesale distributor, but I have heard folks that have bought retail from them. I would call them to see if they will sell retain and if not if they would give you a shops name you could call and purchase from. They were my supplier for ply a couple years ago before I switched.

Cameron, the maple ply you bought would most likely be a Columbia Purebond or a Murphy product. I have cut a lot of both but switched to Garnica for many reasons. Voids, number of ply cores and thickness the main reasons. I'll see if I can take a side by side pic of both and show you the differences. The unit of Garnica I brought in last week measures at .747". I check it about every 10 sheets while cutting on the CNC to keep the dado joints snug. The domestic maple runs about .727". The Garnica has 2 extra ply cores and all poplar core so it's lighter in weight. I haven't seen the Garnica in 1/4" so we use the 1/2" for backs. It's stronger, and eliminates a nailer on the wall cabinets when we recess it in a 3/8" rabbit on the back. I've never had a sheet delaminate on me and have not found any voids out of the thousands of sheets run. I have had a few sheets, but not many delam on me with the maple but have had numerous voids. Being just .003" off of 3/4" makes it easier to setup your dado, and measuring your finished box where you won't be able to measure that tight tolerance with a measuring tape. The maple I've run, when looking at from an angle, I can see waves in the face veneers where the core isn't as flat as it could be, but haven't seen that at all in the Garnica.