Fretboard saw

[Chris C]

So I've got two guitars to finish before I start on the violin project that I've been putting off. I've also had to replace a broken truss rod in one of my guitars. I damaged the fretboard removing the rod but no big deal as I just made a new one.

But it set me to thinking... I really need a fret saw box. I made one a while back and it works okay for what it is. But I want something better. So I decided to dedicate one of the miter boxes I had laying around for the job.

I have plenty of spare miter saws so I modified one to fit the kerf I need. I used a grinder to rough it out to .023 and then recut the teeth on the Foley. I've been looking for a surface grinder and this project really needs one but it came out good regardless. I guess I could always make a saw for this purpose and I'll probably order material for that the next time I purchase from McMaster.

Anyway... Success. The saw is running with no set and I'll need to address that in the future. It cuts fine but wants to bind a little bit more than I expected. I should have gone a little thinner on the plate so I can add just a tiny bit of set. But the end result speaks for itself.

 

[Roy G]

Chris, do you grind the whole blade thinner or just the area between the marks on the blade? Looks like it does a fine job on the fret board.

Roy G

 

[Chris C]

Chris, do you grind the whole blade thinner or just the area between the marks on the blade? Looks like it does a fine job on the fret board.

Roy G

I ground about 75% of the length about an inch up from the toothline. I only sharpened the area between the marks..... It's such a small and shallow cut I just didn't see the need to do more.

 

[gtrboy77]

So I've got two guitars to finish before I start on the violin project that I've been putting off. I've also had to replace a broken truss rod in one of my guitars. I damaged the fretboard removing the rod but no big deal as I just made a new one.

But it set me to thinking... I really need a fret saw box. I made one a while back and it works okay for what it is. But I want something better. So I decided to dedicate one of the miter boxes I had laying around for the job.

I have plenty of spare miter saws so I modified one to fit the kerf I need. I used a grinder to rough it out to .023 and then recut the teeth on the Foley. I've been looking for a surface grinder and this project really needs one but it came out good regardless. I guess I could always make a saw for this purpose and I'll probably order material for that the next time I purchase from McMaster.

Anyway... Success. The saw is running with no set and I'll need to address that in the future. It cuts fine but wants to bind a little bit more than I expected. I should have gone a little thinner on the plate so I can add just a tiny bit of set. But the end result speaks for itself.

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I have a fret saw jig and saw (from LMI, I think) that I don’t use anymore.

 

[old and in the way]

Chris:

I use this saw (link below) for inlay work; the saw with a handle is inexpensive and the replacement blades cost even less. I use their miter box with a sacrificial board to cut inlay components, but that box might be too narrow for a fretboard. They have some different widths that may correspond to other fretwire; I don't know if you use 0.023" exclusively.

Hope this helps.
Tone

Fine Kerf Razor Saw 32tpi | Zona Tool

 

[Chris C]

Chris:

I use this saw (link below) for inlay work; the saw with a handle is inexpensive and the replacement blades cost even less. I use their miter box with a sacrificial board to cut inlay components, but that box might be too narrow for a fretboard. They have some different widths that may correspond to other fretwire; I don't know if you use 0.023" exclusively.

Hope this helps.
Tone

Fine Kerf Razor Saw 32tpi | Zona Tool

I appreciate it. I enjoy making my own saws so I'll just order several bars of 24" brass flat stock and a roll of .016 or .018 1095 spring steel and make my own. I've been wanting to make a thinner kerf dovetail saw anyway....