Fallen red oak

M2Pilot

New User
Mark
A large red oak on our property came down in a recent storm. About 40” in diameter at the base and 40-50’ tall. Is it worth the expense to bring in a mobile mill to save the wood, or is it better to cut it into firewood? Seems like all the red oak I might ever want for wood working projects. But I’m not clear on whether it makes economic sense given the hourly cost of having it processed.

Thanks for your advice.
 

HITCH-

Hitch
Corporate Member
Perhaps you could find someone who would mill the wood and accept lumber as payment. You would be left with some of the lumber at no out of pocket expense.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
500 Bd. Ft. of FAS (clear) grade red oak @ $6.00/BF would be $3000.00. If all the boards were 1x6"x8', that would be 125 boards you'll have to move around and store.
Just some things to think about.
Not all logs yield clear lumber.
 

M2Pilot

New User
Mark
We’re in north Raleigh just next to falls lake. I have what I think is a great location for drying a large quantity of wood under our large deck. Easy access to walk under and sheltered from rain etc.

Based on Bob’s calculations it seems like even in the worst case I could break even assuming the milling runs $500-700. Is that a reasonable expectation??

Are there any sort of diseases a red oak might have that render the lumber unusable? I’m thinking of the staining our diseased pine trees in Colorado had.

Thanks
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
Is there easy access to the tree? Wood-Mizers are on a trailer so need to be able to drive up close. Was the tree healthy before it blew down? You would need to check with the sawyer to see if they can handle a 40" diameter log.

Roy G
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Is it a "yard" tree? Some sawyers refuse to mill them and if they do you may be responsible for any damage done to the blade by hidden metal.

You may want to ask.
 

M2Pilot

New User
Mark
Naturally the tree is not in an easily accessible area. Nor is it in an impossible area. I have no idea whether it is too hard for a portable mill to get to. I took a little video to show the path from driveway to the tree for those interested. (New video by Mark Supinski) I’m interested to hear if this is a very hard area or not from those with more experience.

In terms of “yard tree” - we’re on 3 acres and this is one of the many trees.
 

llucas

luke
Senior User
Mark
As someone who has faced similar situations, and as someone who hates to see opportunities wasted I will weigh in on this.
First, there will be some serious work turning that tree into something ready for the sawyer....de-limbing, and getting it bucked into sawlogs is a separate job, possibly complicated by the fact that that tree looks to be not all the way down...be careful if you decide to do that yourself.

Second, from what I can see there is access and space to drag the logs out to where the sawyer can set up for milling, so that looks to be doable. A 40" x 10' log will be a challenge to move without proper equipment. Three such logs will yield a fair amount of lumber to be moved, sticked, etc. The fun will go out of the process pretty quickly. Be aware that in the end you will have plenty of firewood from the limbs to deal with, and a sizeable pile of sawdust at the milling site to clean up as well.

Third, I am not sure storing the lumber under a deck is a great idea unless it had good cross circulation...most decks tend to be damp, not great for drying. In any case, preparing the "beds" for stacking is a chore in itself and does require some work and expense making a solid, level foundation for each of the piles. That might be more difficult to do under a deck unless it has good overhead clearance.

Fourth, think about how you might want the lumber/slabs cut. If you are a furniture maker and want finished 3/4" stuff in the end, I would suggest having the sawyer cut it 5/4 to allow for dimensional changes during drying and for inevitable loss of dimension when jointing and planing to that thickness. Air drying that will take about a year, thicker stuff will naturally take longer.

Fifth, If you are thinking of offsetting your expense of lumber production by selling some of it, be aware that the desirability of air dried lumber is significantly less than the kiln dried variety which commands a higher price...I am thinking that you may get less than half the retail price. That is disappointing after you have put in significant effort and expense to get the lumber to that point.

So having said all that, an attractive option would be to see if you can "sell" the logs to a sawyer who will share to lumber with you, cutting your overall expense, leaving you with less work in the long run and probably provide you with more red oak than you will ever need. I am not sure how probable that option is. Sawyers I have used charge by the hour and it has ended up costing me about 50 cents a board foot to cut...but there were two of us grunts pushing the process doing all the offbearing...pretty hard on the back but shortening the overall sawyer time.

So in the end, you will do a lot of work, and you will get your lumber for a good price, and you will have more of one species of wood than you need...by a lot.

How do I know that? see below
IMG_0271.jpg
IMG_4382.jpg




IMG_0411.jpg
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
So in the end, you will do a lot of work, and you will get your lumber for a good price, and you will have more of one species of wood than you need...by a lot.

How do I know that? see below
Awesome post! That's full disclosure as full disclosure should be.
 

Echd

C
User
If it's in a rough (but not impossible) location and you're on the fence, why not split the difference and get a chainsaw mill?

Sure, its wasteful in absolute terms (big blade kerf!), but you can still harvest a boatload of boards, and do it more or less at your own pace.
 

kelLOGg

Bob
Senior User
What Luke said. Particularly about lack of cross ventilation. An ideal air drying shed would have no sides. I know because mine doesn't.:)
 

red

Papa Red
Red
Senior User
I've done it in the past and would do it again. If red oak is a wood you use a lot of, hire a mill to come in and mill it up for you. You'll get good boards and some not so good. You'll get the satisfaction of knowing this wood came from your property. Just remember it's not kiln dried or sterilized unless you send it to a kiln. Good luck.

Red
 

blackhawk

Brad
Corporate Member
I have dried hundreds of bf of lumber under my covered deck. It has worked great. I have a platform that has 4 ft of clearance from the house. This allows good airflow. As long as you have enough airflow to prevent mold, you will be fine. The more airflow the faster it will dry, but you won't hurt it at all by drying slow. Actually, you want to dry red oak slowly. It is one species that does not react good to fast drying. If I put 4/4 boards under my deck, they will be down to 12-14%% MC within about 6-7 months. If I want finished 3/4" boards, I rough saw to 1-1/8" thick and have not had a problem.

Another thing to consider is a sawyer with a swing blade mill, like a Lucas, if you don't have equipment to move the logs. With my Lucas, I set the mill up around the log. A swing blade mill or giant chainsaw mill is the only portable sawmill that I know of that will handle 46" diameter logs. Most portable bandsaw mills max out at a 32" diameter log, there are some that can handle 36" diameter logs but they can only cut 32" wide.
 

Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
I had an even larger oak tree come down. It was in the middle of a pasture and basically just came down because the ground was soaked and the roots were pulled out. I could not find anyone willing to saw it under any kind of arrangement. I was told many times there was to big of a chance the interior of the tree was shattered.
 

BML

Lee
Senior User
You could chainsaw mill it into slabs yourself and then have a mill on hand for when another one comes down.
 

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