Cabinet design questions *pics*

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Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
On my back bench I am using flush inset doors. Each opening has two doors with no center stile. Questions are in bold throughout. Here is an older pic for reference:

Backbench-37.JPG


I have some questions about the bottoms (shelf) for upper or lower cabinets and alignment of the accompanying faceframe rail when using flush inset doors. Does everyone align the top edge of the bottom rail with the top surface of the cabinet bottom?

Do you usually just glue and clamp the face frame, shoot a few brads, use biscuits, etc. (?) to maintain alignment?

I was thinking that there might be some benefit to putting a finished edge on the front of the ply bottom first and attaching the face frame so there would be a 1/4" or so reveal- the top surface of the bottom (shelf) would be above the top edge of the faceframe. Benefits- no need to worry about misalignment between the top surface of the bottom and the faceframe rail; it would give you a stop for flush inset doors.

What kind of stop do you use with flush inset doors?

I am struggling with how to add stops and catches to my doors. The installation of a stop and catch is a visual problem (to me). I just don't like things hanging down into the opening. Here is what I did on the lower cabinets. You don't see much of the catch when you are standing near the bench just when you are farther away, but I still don't like it.

Catch-1.JPG


Catch-2.JPG


These are non-adjustable magnets- I ordered the wrong ones- they have slotted heads and looked like they screw in and out to adjust, but they don't. Right now I'm using a small screw in the back of the door as an adjustable target, but I'm not happy with the holding power. I think I may replace the screw in the door with a small rare earth magnet which should have enough additional attraction that I can make it flush or even recess it in the back of the door.

On the upper cabinets I'm going to go ahead and try a small rare earth magnet in the top edge of the door and one opposite it in the bottom edge of the top rail. I will still need a stop; but that can be very low profile since I won't be mounting a catch in it.

Has anyone else tried rare earth magnets in the door and rail/stile edges?


Awhile back in a shop in Hendersonville I saw one cabinet where this was done, it was very unobtrusive and seemed to hold very well. I couldn't tell if the magnets were offset any (in/out) so once the door was closed the magnets would still apply a closing force to hold the door against some sort of stop. I also don't remember the stop detail.

Any ideas out there?
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
I haven't got much to help, but as far as catches for an inset door, the first thing that I thought of were "bullet catches". I've never used them so I can't comment as to how well they work, but I like the concept.
I searched and found two styles:




The way that they mount, I can't image a cleaner look for inset doors. Maybe someone will chime in saying that they're junk, but it's an idea...
 
M

McRabbet

Alan -- you've got the solution for "no Door Stops" with your desire to leave a 1/4" reveal for the lower shelf. With inset doors, the door will strike the reveal and won't go any further. In terms of face frame alignment, I like to leave my cabinet sides a little proud of the top and bottom and add a dado in the back of the face frame to mate with the protruding sides. If you also run a dado across the top at right angles and leave the top panel proud, it locks everything very square. For attachment, I use face frame screws from the outside of the side panels where they'll be hidden.

HTH -- Rob
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Any shelf can be your doorstop.
Edge magnets are easier to install than bullets, but magnets inset in door/shelf center will hold better.
I use spring loaded offset hinges whenever I can and the middle shelf as the doorstop if possible.
Joe
 
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