Back in the shop Again

[cpowell]

I got back in the shop for a few hours this weekend after a few month hiatus. I've been ATVing with my son weekends and haven't had the drive to sneak a few hours after work.

Anyway, it felt good to be back in the shop. I laid out the cabs for my workbench, made the carcass pieces in leftover 3/4 BB ply, edge glued solid RO, flush trimmed, sanded. The front will have solid PH edge glued for faux face frames, with overlay drawer fronts in hard maple left over from the bench top construction (I have enough if I don't screw up too bad).

I somehow managed to glue/screw the carcass BEFORE I rabbeted the rear for a 1/4 ply back panel. :BangHead:

If I could find some thin hardboard ( the stuff that's used on the back of el cheapo furniture) I could tack it with a few brads or screw into the solid frame edges. The rear will not add any structural strength. I'll use a few screws in the bottom and sides to fasten the carcass to the workbench base frame. The back is only needed to keep dust out. The back is roughly 17H x 42W.

If there is an easy way to rout a rabbet in the assembled carcass I may give it a go. I looked at Tom Hintz's site and saw read his write up on using a rabbeting bit with multiple bearings. I think that would still be a pain.

So, is there a simple way to build a jig and rout the rabbet? Or, does anyone know where I can find some thin hardboard for the back? I want the back to be easily removeable.

I'm trying to make the entire cab out of cutoffs and whatever ply I have on hand. I'm hoping I have enough heavy 4/4 RO to resaw for drawer stock. I have spent 8 dollars for closeout pulls from the BORG.

I visited Mshel's shop (Mike) this morning and he was kind enough to turn a handle and caps for my end vise. He did a great job. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Here's a pic.

(that pic makes me wish I'd painted over the green vise hardware.)

Chuck

 

[JackLeg]

1/4" MDF is readily available at the BORG's as is less expensive paneling if yoiu are just wanting to "close the gap." Built a small shelving unit recently and I used MDF for the back. Worked OK.

 

[Travis Porter]

A lot of the HD's and Lowes carry 1/8" hardboard. It should do what you need.

Love the caps! Did you put O rings on each end before installing them?

 

[cpowell]

A lot of the HD's and Lowes carry 1/8" hardboard. It should do what you need.

Love the caps! Did you put O rings on each end before installing them?

Nope. I put glue. Was I supposed to use an O-ring? Does an O-ring make glue unnecessary so the cap is removeable?


Chuck

 

[DaveO]

If there is an easy way to rout a rabbet in the assembled carcass I may give it a go. I looked at Tom Hintz's site and saw read his write up on using a rabbeting bit with multiple bearings. I think that would still be a pain.

So, is there a simple way to build a jig and rout the rabbet?

Chuck, it should be very easy to route a rabbet on the back edge of you carcass with a bearing guided rabbeting bit. Depending on how deep you want to go you might consider using a few different sized bearings to make stepped cuts. That is no more difficult than making the cut with a few passes on the router table. The best thing you can do is to attach some boards to the side of the carcass with clamps that will give the router more surface to ride upon. You will have to either round over the corners of you back or square up the corners of the rabbet with a chisel.
Thin sheet good attached with brads or staples to the flat back face of the carcass won't add much in stability. Captured in a rabbet will make world of difference.
Dave

 

[junquecol]

If you have a rabbeting bit that uses 3/16" ID bearings, then you can use MLCS's kit #12107 that has six bearings and a hex key for $20. The five buck bits from Woodcraft use the 3/16 bearings. Last week I got in a set of bearings to make my single depth rabbeting bits into multiple depth bits. Free shipping too.

 

[Travis Porter]

No, you don't have to use O rings, I just use them to keep the handles from slamming. One on each side. To make the cap removable the only way I know to do that is a screw or a pin.

 

[cpowell]

No, you don't have to use O rings, I just use them to keep the handles from slamming. One on each side.

That's some good information to know for next time! :icon_thum


Chuck

 

[Will Goodwin]

Chuck...why paint the vise? Looks very festive...like Santa's workshop. I like it.

Will