Video - 3D Printed Drill Press Dust Collection

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Little over 2.5" wide hole.
It looked like it - I am curious if dust collection would be better if the hole were smaller, but then visually that may pose issues...
(thinking one could make it smaller and open it up if an when you used that larger bit...)

Now thinking, wouldn't it be cool made out of acrylic?!
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Been thinking about one. Boot for my belt sander, boots for the miter, deflectors for the TS ( an idea to use the blade as a fan to clear the gullets) and several other wood shop related ideas. Like I need another toy and hobby! Learning curve looks steep.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
What slicer did you use? The new Cura is supposed to make printing faster. Everytime I tried it on an old print. I saw zero time improvement.

Ultimaker Cura 4.12.1

Just downloaded the new Cura 5.0 and it gives the same time for slicing, but next print I'll use it and see if any real world difference.
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
I ordered one over the weekend, and it was delivered today. I'll try to test it out later.
 

charlessenf

(;harles
Senior User
Only took 15 hours to finish! Longest print I've done on my printer. Now have to use my Dremel to remove the supports needed during print, and then test it out.

View attachment 211776View attachment 211777
15Hours - What percent of fill did you select?
How Much Material (love the color choice) was consumed?
PS:
protrusion.jpg
 
Last edited:

Echd

C
User
3D printing is a very slow process unfortunately. My screen shows I started 5 hours and 22 minutes ago, and it says it 16% complete! My slicer estimated 12 hours but now I'm thinking closer to 30.

Often the on-board estimate is just based on the number of layers left. This has huge fat and thick base layers that take a long time to print, so the time presumably dropped much more quickly after you got out of that region.

If the part isn't completely solid I like the ease in PrusaSlicer or SuperSlicer of adjusting the width of infill lines (worded better, PrusaSlicer makes adjusting different types of lines individually very simple... you can have thinner external perimeters and top layers for a better appearance but much heavier internal lines for speed and strength)... making your infill lines 0.66 or 0.88mm with an 0.4 nozzle really speeds things up. Honestly for a part like this that isn't really needing to be precisely made I'd have done something like 0.6 to even 1mm lines all around and fat layers, maybe 0.28 or 0.3. To really optimize it I'd rather it be printable without supports but you can't win them all... maybe a design where the funnel threads onto the base or something could be a two part design printed without support.
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
I drilled a single 5/8" hole, 1" deep, into a piece of soft maple and it worked "perfectly." The problem is that the hose opening is slightly undersized and I had to tape it to the hose.

I'll send the guy a note, but it'll be easier to make an adapter of some kind than it will be to work out an exchange
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
15Hours - What percent of fill did you select?
How Much Material (love the color choice) was consumed?
PS:
View attachment 211817

He recommend 50% infill so that's what I went with, there was a comment that if infill was less there was chance of suction causing it to break. Cutting infill back didn't cut the print time by that much. The printer I have a lot of people complain is a slow printer, but it has a huge print bed (like 15" x 15") which was higher priority for me than speed.

The protrusion is the support needed when printing, needed to support the arches and areas that don't connect to the bed directly, once done I just have to break off the support areas (which is a complete PITA to be honest) It has support inside the area that the hose connects to also.

Software says it used 273 grams of filament. I bought orange to match all my rigid tools :D
 
Last edited:

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
Often the on-board estimate is just based on the number of layers left. This has huge fat and thick base layers that take a long time to print, so the time presumably dropped much more quickly after you got out of that region.

If the part isn't completely solid I like the ease in PrusaSlicer or SuperSlicer of adjusting the width of infill lines (worded better, PrusaSlicer makes adjusting different types of lines individually very simple... you can have thinner external perimeters and top layers for a better appearance but much heavier internal lines for speed and strength)... making your infill lines 0.66 or 0.88mm with an 0.4 nozzle really speeds things up. Honestly for a part like this that isn't really needing to be precisely made I'd have done something like 0.6 to even 1mm lines all around and fat layers, maybe 0.28 or 0.3. To really optimize it I'd rather it be printable without supports but you can't win them all... maybe a design where the funnel threads onto the base or something could be a two part design printed without support.

I just downloaded PrusaSlicer and it sure does have a lot of options! And it would be awesome to print without support, where the funnel connects to base, maybe a slip in that you glue together. Unfortunately the design on 3D printer objects is way beyond my skill.
 

kserdar

Ken
Senior User
He recommend 50% infill so that's what I went with, there was a comment that if infill was less there was chance of suction causing it to break. Cutting infill back didn't cut the print time by that much. The printer I have a lot of people complain is a slow printer, but it has a huge print bed (like 15" x 15") which was higher priority for me than speed.

The protrusion is the support needed when printing, needed to support the arches and areas that don't connect to the bed directly, once done I just have to break off the support areas (which is a complete PITA to be honest) It has support inside the area that the hose connects to also.

Software says it used 273 grams of filament. I bought orange to match all my rigid tools :D
The "Tree" support in later Cura versions has been good and very easy to remove.
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
I drilled a single 5/8" hole, 1" deep, into a piece of soft maple and it worked "perfectly." The problem is that the hose opening is slightly undersized and I had to tape it to the hose.

I'll send the guy a note, but it'll be easier to make an adapter of some kind than it will be to work out an exchange

The one I purchased from him has the same issue. My vac nozzle appears to be about 1/16ths shy of fitting. I worked on it for about 15 minutes with a rasp, file and 80-grit sandpaper and it's almost there. It's odd he didn't make it fit the 2-1/4" standard used by most shop vacs like Ridgid.
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top