Why not cut the edges off first?

Robert166

robert166
Corporate Member
Experimenting on the lathe lately and watched a bunch of videos. Person will place a square piece on the lathe begin turning and it sounds it is beating the lathe to death. After finding center, seems to me, taking a trip to the bandsaw and cutting those edges off would make things a bit more pleasant. Or am I missing something?
 

cyclopentadiene

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Turning an octagon is easier. It also helps when turning a table or chair piece when toy want to go from square to round. I often just take off the corner with a rasp where I want the two to intersect as it avoids repairing a tear-out oops. A lot of this depends on the wood and grain
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I use my table saw to cut the corners off.
I think it is another step that some don't care to take.
By the way there is a better way of turning that is gentler and easier on the tool, your hands, and ears...
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
2A03632F-2B3C-4A4D-9DD8-8E8451217006.jpeg
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
For several years when I was doing a lot of spindles for people, I used to run the spindles over a big round over router bit. I would usually do the center sections and leave enough square for the square to round transitions. This helped when I was using a steady rest in the middle. I could steady the middle of the spindle with my hand and cut a round area for the steady rest.

Looking at the crappy photos below, you can see where the middle is routed.

1     steady - 1.jpg
1     steady - 2.jpg
 

Robert166

robert166
Corporate Member
I use my table saw to cut the corners off.
I think it is another step that some don't care to take.
By the way there is a better way of turning that is gentler and easier on the tool, your hands, and ears...
What way might that be Mike?
 

Robert166

robert166
Corporate Member
Can you suggest a decent priced starter tool set? I have two carbide tipped one now, one is square one is round. Thanks!
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
No, I bought the Sorby set 30 years ago for $175. I thought that was a lot of money back then but the price now is highway robbery.

I would buy individual tools as I need or learn to use them.

Or buy a very cheap set like horrible fright.

Edit; I may find a few tools around the shop you could have to even some i would sell cheap.
 

Robert166

robert166
Corporate Member
Let me know, that Sorby set, yeah probably aint gonna happen. Should have bought some at the picnic.
 

beloitdavisja

James
Corporate Member
+1 For buying individual tools. I bought the Harbor Freight set starting out. The only things I still use from that set are the two (1" & 1/2") skews. I had been using the parting tool until I bought a Crown diamond parting tool from the picnic. - WOW that thing works wonders compared to the HF parter. I'm going to replace those skews at some point (I had been eyeing a 1/2" Sorby skew at the picnic, but someone grabbed it before I could decide). If I had to do it again, I'd skip the HF set and get the below:
  • 1' Skew
  • 3/8 or 1/2" bowl gouge
  • 3/8" spindle gouge
  • 3/4" spindle rouging gouge

Really depends on what you're turning. If you're primarily doing bowls, for example, swap out the roughing gouge for a bowl scraper (since you should NEVER use a SRG on a bowl!)

I've found the WoodRiver tools at Woodcraft are decent, and a definite step up from the HF set. I have a mix of them and Sorby's. I'd love to get some Thompson's, but.... I'm cheap.

All that said, I cut the corners off if it's bigger than 2". Especially helps with bowl blanks (unless I'm doing a cornered bowl :) ). Smaller than 2" (say for pens or bottle stoppers) it takes me less time to turn them down than to cut them off.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
All that said, I cut the corners off if it's bigger than 2". Especially helps with bowl blanks (unless I'm doing a cornered bowl :) ). Smaller than 2" (say for pens or bottle stoppers) it takes me less time to turn them down than to cut them off.
With a good spindle roughing gough, this is quite true. Its faster and less trouble. My spindle roughing gouge is 1-3/8" wide. A Henry Taylor I think. That tool gets more use than most other tools because it makes things round first. After that, depending on the work profiles needed, I'll get out the appropriate tools. I tried a smaller Carter roughing gouge. Meh. I'll stick with the Taylor. Its way faster.

1     Rougher - 1.jpg
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
  • 1' Skew
  • 3/8 or 1/2" bowl gouge
  • 3/8" spindle gouge
  • 3/4" spindle rouging gouge
These are the tools I use the most
  • 1 1/4' Skew
  • 5/8" bowl gouge with 40/40 grind
  • 3/4" gouge deep end grind
  • 3/8" spindle gouge fingernail grind
  • 1 3/8" spindle roughing gouge or 1" inside the flutes
  • Parting tool
  • 1" continental gouge
Edit, actually measured these tools last night and making some corrections.
 
Last edited:

marinosr

Richard
Corporate Member
I recently was trying to take the corners off of some green wood unsupported, doing the first corner, and the bandsaw hit a knot, grabbed the wood and turned it 20 degrees or so. It stopped the blade dead in its tracks and stalled the motor. Put a nice kink in my $25 bandsaw blade too.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
I recently was trying to take the corners off of some green wood unsupported, doing the first corner, and the bandsaw hit a knot, grabbed the wood and turned it 20 degrees or so. It stopped the blade dead in its tracks and stalled the motor. Put a nice kink in my $25 bandsaw blade too.
Ah hmmmmm - yup - yessirreee - unsupported pieces at the bandsaw have seemed doable to me too - until they aren't. I too have learned a lesson and have the BS blades to prove it!
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Makes perfect sense... IF you have a bandsaw.
Or a chainsaw, handsaw,…

I agree with removing the corners. It’s just dead weight.

That said the ‘beating the lathe to death’ thing can be reduced by properly* balancing the work between centers.

Took me a while to figure that out.

-Mark
* as long as you don’t need a super-specific grain orientation
 

Reference Handiwork

Ref
Senior User
No, I bought the Sorby set 30 years ago for $175. I thought that was a lot of money back then but the price now is highway robbery.

I would buy individual tools as I need or learn to use them.

Or buy a very cheap set like horrible fright.

Edit; I may find a few tools around the shop you could have to even some i would sell cheap.
Hahah. Wow. Nearly $500. If I ever turn, I'll definitely start with HF to see if I like it enough to invest in nice tools.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
I don't have any carbide insert turning tools but something to consider when buying lathe chisels is what you are willing to invest in a sharpening system for them? If you don't do anything but turning it may be more economical to buy the carbide system instead of grinders and grinding jigs. Just a thought.
 

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