What exactly do you like about this one?
@Rwe2156 That looks like a great way to do it. Did you use any plans or did you just make it based on the video? It looks like you could make it to whatever dimensions you wanted or need for your fence?I made the Steve Latta jig & I quit doing them like that.
I get much better results with a dado. You establish one cheek, then dial in the height for the other side. You just can’t do that as accurately with a vertical jig. Also a cleaner cut.
Now, if you’re adjusting the mortise to the tenon (but why??) it doesn’t matter.
What if you reposition the guide bar that runs in the slot to be closer to the edge. That would move the base away from the blade. Pretty sure the one I have has multiple sets of holes. I'd assumed these were to accommodate different saws, but likely for this reason as well.On the Delta, the base is in the way when tenoning thicker stock.
I more or less just followed the design. What separates his jig from others is the spline that guides it and keeps it from racking. With wax it slides like silk.@Rwe2156 That looks like a great way to do it. Did you use any plans or did you just make it based on the video? It looks like you could make it to whatever dimensions you wanted or need for your fence?
That was my first thought but I got distracted by the Woodsmith design.What if you reposition the guide bar that runs in the slot to be closer to the edge. That would move the base away from the blade. Pretty sure the one I have has multiple sets of holes. I'd assumed these were to accommodate different saws, but likely for this reason as well.
Dug into this further. When the fixture is adjusted fully out the vertical plate just kisses the blade. Thus, no overtravel to use.What if you reposition the guide bar that runs in the slot to be closer to the edge. That would move the base away from the blade. Pretty sure the one I have has multiple sets of holes. I'd assumed these were to accommodate different saws, but likely for this reason as well.
I like that design and it would satisfy my needs. Is the toggle clamp above the maximum blade height?Here's a simple variant that is indifferent to minor variations in stock thickness (or intentional thickness differences). You just have to decide whether the face side or backside is toward the jig and cut them all the same. Once the two stops are dialed in, it's very repeatable. It usually takes about 3 test cuts to get it dead on. Toggle clamp low, close to the blade and your left hand way high away. Right hand ushes the handle. Originally you would twist the handle to lock the position, but I found it was not needed.
Yes - above the cut. You can see a line indicator that I intended to use with a stick-on rule. During the trial runs I decided it wasnt really necessary.I like that design and it would satisfy my needs. Is the toggle clamp above the maximum blade height?
Just moving the bar will not get the base out of the way which is the primary problem. Let’s name the parts from bottom up as guide bar, base, and head.Drilling a couple more holes and moving the bar seems like the easier option. You'll just have to make these as accurate as possible in order to keep the work moving parallel to the blade. Certainly doable if you take your time marking the location. I'd use a center punch and maybe a center drill to ensure accuracy.