Table Saw Recommendations

[1075tech]

As I put my shop together, about the last major tool I want/need to get is a table saw.

I currently have a Craftsman bench top style that was cheap 25 years ago when I bought it.

I'm looking to upgrade.

Although my plan for use would be mostly boards of probably 12" width or so, I can see the need to rip down sheet goods to various sizes.

I don't have a large amount of space so the large 52" class saws would likely be out.

Right now, I'm looking at a couple of Delta Contractor saws for $350 - $400. But I've come across a Unisaw with a 32"(?) Biesemeyer fence. He's asking $700.

All of these are older saws. The contactors being 1990s vintage with the Unisaw a 1983. The Unisaw is 220 though so I would have to do some electrical upgrades.

I would really like to stay under the $500 range.

Looking to the experts here for opinions

 

[Jim Roche]

As I put my shop together, about the last major tool I want/need to get is a table saw.

I currently have a Craftsman bench top style that was cheap 25 years ago when I bought it.

I'm looking to upgrade.

Although my plan for use would be mostly boards of probably 12" width or so, I can see the need to rip down sheet goods to various sizes.

I don't have a large amount of space so the large 52" class saws would likely be out.

Right now, I'm looking at a couple of Delta Contractor saws for $350 - $400. But I've come across a Unisaw with a 32"(?) Biesemeyer fence. He's asking $700.

All of these are older saws. The contactors being 1990s vintage with the Unisaw a 1983. The Unisaw is 220 though so I would have to do some electrical upgrades.

I would really like to stay under the $500 range.

Looking to the experts here for opinions

Hello,
I’d say if you can swing it, I’d try for the Unisaw.
They are great saws with parts readily available on many different forums.
I also think that you’ll have more success with dust control down the road if you choose to go that route.

Good luck!

Jim

 

[zdorsch]

Unisaw with the nice fence! It actually takes up less space than the contractors saws since the motor isn’t hanging out the back. Parts are plentiful and it’s easy to work on should something happen.

Check the motor, but it may be able to run on 110 with a simple wire change (diagram will be on the motor).

I’d also offer $500 and see what the seller says.

 

[ssmith]

To upgrade from what you have within that price range it will need to be a used contractor class or floor standing saw.

The unisaw is a great choice if you're looking for a heavier duty item.

In the contractor class, the Delta 36-725 is a good choice. New, it's a bit out of your budget ($700) but is 115/220 convertible, has all the safety features you'll find short of Sawstop's brake, and will cut 8/4 hardwoods (ash/hickory) if you feed judiciously.

Regardless of what you choose, I'd be sure the saw includes a riving knife and anti-kickback pawls, and if you want it, dust collection.

 

[teesquare]

There are a lot of old Unisaws out there... But there are other good choices - which - unlike Delta - the company making them is is around and doing well financially ...thus the potential of some customer support/manuals/parts is better. Powermatic, and Jet also made 10" cabinet saws of excellent quality, and there are a lot of them out there in the used market.

 

[1075tech]

One of the things I've found with the older, used saws, is the lack of riving knife and other safety features.

Whether they can be retrofitted or not is a question.

As to a new 36-725, anyone purchase one recently? How has it been "out of the box"? I could get one today if I choose to.

 

[teesquare]

A riving knife is a great feature for safety. So on that topic.....
My default answer when folks ask me about table saws is: SAWSTOP. Yes - they cost more. But the cost of even the most deluxe model is LESS than one emergency room visit. Even is you do not cut off a digit or two. I know cost is always a consideration. But, like insurance - we hate to pay for more or better features...until we find we should have consider them.

 

[Berta]

I added a track saw to be able to cut down sheet goods. It works great and I could buy a smaller table saw.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

UNISAW ! ! ! If you have to beg, borrow, or steal the extra $200, it will be worth it in the long run. I have a 1982 Unisaw and love it. As for ripping sheet goods, you need at least 24" capacity (half of a 48" sheet). If you need to crosscut sheet goods wider than your 32" capacity, either get a tract saw, as Berta suggested, or have it cut down when you buy it. Most retailers offer this service.

 

[zdorsch]

As far as a riving knife, shark guard makes a “riving knife” that can easily be installed on most saws.

It’s manually adjustable, meaning the knife doesn’t move simultaneously up and down as you raise and lower the blade. Easy enough to move the knife and then raise the blade.

 

[Martin Roper]

I have the short rails on my 20+ year-old Grizzly cabinet saw. I don't have room for the long rails and anyway I'm too old now to be manhandling 4x8 sheet goods on a big saw. I cut them to rough size first with a track saw and I use my table saw to cut pieces to final size. I rarely cut anything more than 24" wide.

My Grizzly is pre-riving knife. I bought Microjig splitters to keep ripped pieces from closing in on the blade. They work pretty well.

I also use the Milescraft Grabber (Gripper knock-off) on as many cuts as possible to keep my fingers as far away from the blade as possible.

 

[Rwe2156]

It won’t have riving knife. Table saws #1 in accidents.

You need to factor in safety. Too often people get caught up in the deal and forget this.

 

[Kelly]

SawStop !
What’s the value of a finger, or God forbid, a thumb. Is a finger worth $2000 ? Lose just one and you could have upgraded to a SawStop.
I realize that is out of your price range. We have all been there. But whatever you decide, get and use a guard and work safely.
THIS COMES FROM THE VOICE OF EXPERIENCE. This is potentially dangerous pursuit, but a rewarding one. I worked on a Jet 10”cabinet saw for 26 years without a bleeding accident on my saw,
working safely. Until in a heartbeat of lost focus and BAM.
I sold my saw yesterday and will be buying a SawStop this week.
I am old, but I want to continue this great hobby. So, I cannot afford another finger, but I can afford a SawStop.

 

[Rwe2156]

SawStop !
What’s the value of a finger, or God forbid, a thumb. Is a finger worth $2000 ? Lose just one and you could have upgraded to a SawStop.
I realize that is out of your price range. We have all been there. But whatever you decide, get and use a guard and work safely.
THIS COMES FROM THE VOICE OF EXPERIENCE. This is potentially dangerous pursuit, but a rewarding one. I worked on a Jet 10”cabinet saw for 26 years without a bleeding accident on my saw,
working safely. Until in a heartbeat of lost focus and BAM.
I sold my saw yesterday and will be buying a SawStop this week.
I am old, but I want to continue this great hobby. So, I cannot afford another finger, but I can afford a SawStop.

Very sorry about the accident. Hopefully you are right handed.

I had almost the exact experience (minus the degree of injury) and even the same brand of saw, and like you, drive to my Woodcraft and bought a PCS the very next day.

This is a common topic, and I’ll repeat what I’ve said in my previous post—most people looking for a table saw don’t even think about safety. Those with hobby shops who either don’t have much experience, or do not use a table saw often, or are using one of the horribly poor quality saws out there are the most at risk of injury — but as the testimony above illustrates, an accident can happen to anyone — regardless of experience. All it takes is one inattentive moment during a repetitive task or a mental lapse.

I‘ve promoted the idea that with the right track saw set up, and a couple routers you don’t even need a table saw. They are safer, have better dust control, take up less space, and with the right accessories can be even more accurate.

I want to thank Kelly for having the courage to post this, and I hope it will have an impact, but alas, too many have the foolish and shortsighted idea that money trumps safety.

To ANYONE wanting to buy a table saw, PLEASE buy a SawStop even if you have to borrow the money.

 

[Kelly]

I have been able to adapt, but certainly without some loss of function. I continued to use my Jet until I finally accepted that my eye-to-hand coordination is not what it was 20 years ago.

 

[zdorsch]

Let me preface my comments with this isn’t meant to start a war about the sawstop.

I’m curious if the folks that are injured by table saws are using push sticks, guards, etc? Most of the injuries seems to be from one’s hand being too close to the blade while cutting stock. I’ve definitely hit the blade with a push stick on several occasions, especially when cutting thin strips.

In most cases it seems that leaving on the over the blade guard would eliminate many of the finger injuries. But this is the first thing that most woodworkers seem to remove.

I upgraded my first Unisaw to a shark guard riving knife with over blade guard and haven’t regretted it. I also regularly use push sticks, keep my hands away from the blade, push the stock all the way past the blade, and turn off the saw before reaching over to grab any stock.

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The SharkGuard OSHA compliant aftermarket table saw blade guard. Contains all parts necessary - get your's today!

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[Kelly]

Like I said, I worked safely for over 26 years. I use push sticks and feather boards religiously. I have a hanging guard with dust collection. But stuff happens. Certainly the odds are in your favor. More people never have an accident on their saw, than those who do. Insurance is a waste of money, until the house burns down and you wish you had paid that insurance bill.

 

[zdorsch]

Like I said, I worked safely for over 26 years. I use push sticks and feather boards religiously. I have a hanging guard with dust collection. But stuff happens.

Were you using a push stick, feather board or hanging guard when the accident happened?

 

[Kelly]

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[1075tech]

In most cases it seems that leaving on the over the blade guard would eliminate many of the finger injuries

In a past life, I worked for a major worker's compensation insurance provider. I had the experience of meeting just such a person. He was ripping a 2x6 on a saw that the blade guard had been removed from. He ran his entire hand through the saw.

He cut his hand from the base of the little finger to the base of his thumb. It cut deep enough to break every bone in his hand. Basically, just the skin on the back of his hand was all that remained intact.

By pure luck, or divine intervention, the hospital he went to had a visiting hand surgeon from a big city teaching hospital. They were able to save his hand, but he had a long and painful recovery.