I plan to replace my saw this year and have looked at the Rikon and Laguna 14 saws. These in particular because the are available with a 1.75 motor. I am limited in 220 availability to what I currently use so 120 VAC is needed. The 14 Delta saw I have will resaw 6" all day with the puny motor it has so I think the 1.75 will be adequate for the 8.5" resawing I use a friends saw for. I saw Mike's fawning over the Rikon and am just about convinced. If nothing else I am convinced he loves it. I have used the Laguna saw of said friend and like it. Both are available about an hour away from me for pickup so that does not factor in. Anyone else have any experience with the Laguna?
Selecting Band Saw
- Thread starter Cuthriell
- Start date
I have the Rikon 10-325 (I think it is now 10-326) and love it. No problem with power or resawing.
I don't own either brand, but I have come across a couple of Laguna owners over the last two years who had problems with their tables not being flat. The fix given to them by Laguna was to lay it upside-down on a "flat" surface for some amount of time that I can't remember.
I have heard lots of complaints about Laguna guides not holding position both in forums and first hand conversations. So if limited to 110, then Rikon 326 would be my choice. One can spend more money and put carter guides on the Laguna, but more fiddley and tool adjusted.
As I had 220, it was between the 353 and Harvey. I went Harvey. If I had the room and money, I would pick a 326 and set it up with a 1/4 blade, and a 347 set up for re-saw only. As I have neither the space or funds, the C-14 was the best compromise.
As I had 220, it was between the 353 and Harvey. I went Harvey. If I had the room and money, I would pick a 326 and set it up with a 1/4 blade, and a 347 set up for re-saw only. As I have neither the space or funds, the C-14 was the best compromise.
I have a Laguna 18BX. It has the ceramic guides and they have worked just fine. My only complaint is the access to adjust the lower guides. Unless you have Kung Fu grip in small spaces you need to tilt the bed up 45 degrees to tighten them.
It doesn’t sound like you are considering anything bigger than a 14, but if you have any thoughts about it, consider the following things I have learned after own an 18 for a few years:
First, I have never done anything over 10”. I can’t imagine even trying, it would be difficult…and probably a 2 person job.
Second, the other supposed advantage is being able to accommodate up to a 1-1/4 blade. I find even a 1” blade a bit more difficult to set up. A 3/4” will hold a straight cut when re-sawing just fine, and I like it for cutting gradual curves.
Third, the 145” blade for the 18 cost more in some cases.
Last, it takes up more space.
It doesn’t sound like you are considering anything bigger than a 14, but if you have any thoughts about it, consider the following things I have learned after own an 18 for a few years:
First, I have never done anything over 10”. I can’t imagine even trying, it would be difficult…and probably a 2 person job.
Second, the other supposed advantage is being able to accommodate up to a 1-1/4 blade. I find even a 1” blade a bit more difficult to set up. A 3/4” will hold a straight cut when re-sawing just fine, and I like it for cutting gradual curves.
Third, the 145” blade for the 18 cost more in some cases.
Last, it takes up more space.
I have a laguna 14 suv. It's the first band saw I have had any experience with. As a novice to wood working I would saw it works fine. I have had no issues with the table being flat. However I can see how the ceramics is an issue. I put duct tape behind mine to keep them from self adjusting. The Carter stuff seems a better design but I'm not changing anything. I have small hands but I can see how adjusting the lower guides can be hard for some. I can reach under fairly well. I have called them for replacement parts and found them easy to deal with on the phone.
I think there is a Rikon in the raffle if I recall so get some tickets and see what happens. The choice might be made for you
I think there is a Rikon in the raffle if I recall so get some tickets and see what happens. The choice might be made for you
I have a Jet JWBS 14SFX as well. I changed the guides and removed/tightened up the minor play the in upper blade exposure guard.
Awesome now. I also have a old Delta with a 5/16" blade. If you can find one get one. I use that for fine work and the other for bulkier work.
Awesome now. I also have a old Delta with a 5/16" blade. If you can find one get one. I use that for fine work and the other for bulkier work.
Optimum is as Casey suggests, a small one with a thin blade, and a big one for re-saw. Space is the limiting factor of course. Small saws are cheap!
Beware of some Jet and lessor saws if they have a diecast upper hub. I also stay away from aluminum wheels on the cheaper saws. Not enough mass so sawdust build up can cause vibration. V-belts of course are not as smooth as multi-rib or link belts. Trunnions on some saws are pretty flimsy. That matters if you are dropping a 6 foot long 8 inch log onto it. Riser blocks on older low end C-frame saws don't have the stiffness of the better modern box beam saws. Antique C-frames, the massive kind, were quite rigid. Not the modern low end ones. Band saws are like a lot of woodworking power tools. You can almost judge them by weight.
I was thinking about the tools vs no tools guides. What really matters is how well they hold position while you snug them. If the adjuster was an Allen and all one size ball tip, is that really an issue? I have to use a DIY extension to reach the lower rear guide anyway and the sides are a tight squeeze for my big paws. I need an Allen to take the upper guard off when changing blades. It might be actually easier with the length of a T-Handle wrench to switch to all Allen bolts. Slide, vs eccentric, vs vernier?
On service, as most band saws are outsourced, it could be the poor CS is due to them not actually having the parts or even expertise in the product. We of course hear about every bad CS experience, and rarely about good ones. Are Jet/Griz/Laguna really as bad as Delta? Or we just hear about it as no one buys new Delta anyway? Are most problems out of the box so return policies are all you need? Will the policy actually be adhered to? I had minor issues with my two Harvey tools and super CS. Would it be the same if a table was warped or frame miss-aligned? No idea.
I made the mistake of thinking a used tool in good condition would have had the bugs worked out. Bought an old Delta drill press. Boy was I wrong. How he put up with it for 20 years I have no idea. It was ( still sorta is) total garbage. Sheaves out of round, quill slop, horrible chuck, V-belts not round or smooth, motor adjustment not clearing original size belts. Should have bought the Palmgren. Same design but they pay attention, as in pay for, tighter tolerances. Now, don;t want to pay that much for basically a 100 year old design.
Beware of some Jet and lessor saws if they have a diecast upper hub. I also stay away from aluminum wheels on the cheaper saws. Not enough mass so sawdust build up can cause vibration. V-belts of course are not as smooth as multi-rib or link belts. Trunnions on some saws are pretty flimsy. That matters if you are dropping a 6 foot long 8 inch log onto it. Riser blocks on older low end C-frame saws don't have the stiffness of the better modern box beam saws. Antique C-frames, the massive kind, were quite rigid. Not the modern low end ones. Band saws are like a lot of woodworking power tools. You can almost judge them by weight.
I was thinking about the tools vs no tools guides. What really matters is how well they hold position while you snug them. If the adjuster was an Allen and all one size ball tip, is that really an issue? I have to use a DIY extension to reach the lower rear guide anyway and the sides are a tight squeeze for my big paws. I need an Allen to take the upper guard off when changing blades. It might be actually easier with the length of a T-Handle wrench to switch to all Allen bolts. Slide, vs eccentric, vs vernier?
On service, as most band saws are outsourced, it could be the poor CS is due to them not actually having the parts or even expertise in the product. We of course hear about every bad CS experience, and rarely about good ones. Are Jet/Griz/Laguna really as bad as Delta? Or we just hear about it as no one buys new Delta anyway? Are most problems out of the box so return policies are all you need? Will the policy actually be adhered to? I had minor issues with my two Harvey tools and super CS. Would it be the same if a table was warped or frame miss-aligned? No idea.
I made the mistake of thinking a used tool in good condition would have had the bugs worked out. Bought an old Delta drill press. Boy was I wrong. How he put up with it for 20 years I have no idea. It was ( still sorta is) total garbage. Sheaves out of round, quill slop, horrible chuck, V-belts not round or smooth, motor adjustment not clearing original size belts. Should have bought the Palmgren. Same design but they pay attention, as in pay for, tighter tolerances. Now, don;t want to pay that much for basically a 100 year old design.
That would solve most all of the criticisms I have heard about the Laguna.
Now, it is said the ceramic guides have an advantage over bearings on re-saw of green or pitchy wood as they scrape clean vs building up on the surface. The issue is not the technology on the Laguna, but the execution. Some have issues, some do not. When I rough sawed some green wood, I did get some build up on my bearing guides but that was rough work. Before I try to do useful re-saw, the wood is always really dry. If you are a turner and are cutting green wood blanks, that may be a different question I have no experience in. In a perfect world, we would have bearing blocks that are universal and quick-mount so we could choose bearing, rear only, or ceramic/metallic/wood fixed guides depending on the job at hand. Unfortunately I live in Hillsborough . Great, but not "Perfect".
Could just roughing up the anodizing on the Laguna guides solve it anyway? I have not seen anyone really focus on a fix, just complain. Of course, ceramic guides you don't have to take apart and re-grease as "sealed" bearings are not and even good NTK bearings get fine dust in them and seize. I only have to clean mine about every 6 months. Not bashing Laguna, just trying to open all questions. All the saws in question should be lifetime tools. Being lifetime, ignore the price and get the correct tool. I am waiting on the Laguna new fence to put on my Harvey. I was close to buying their Fusion 3 TS saw but did not like the short distance from near edge to the blade. It is said to run " as smooth as an old Powermatic". With the experience of my C-14, I bought the Harvey TS. It was tough between old-school and a SawStop. I decided against the PCS as I worried about long term availability of the electronics. Burden of my time spent doing failure analysis at STK. I had always dreamed of a Powermatic, but no longer saw any advantage for the price. So I bought the dinosaur. A curious note, the TS insert is the same shape as Powermatic 66. Hint on OEM?
So, it is a tough choice, Rikon or Laguna. As I could do 3 HP, Harvey added into the mix. ( my choice) Baleigh and Oliver being similar but could not see any advantage. Don't forget Felder. Good tools but don't advertise to the consumer much so they get overlooked. ShopFox has the EU style disk side guides, but is otherwise a Grizzly. The small Powermatic may be a good saw and not too over-priced. Old C frame style and only 6 1/2 inch resaw. Griz or Jet seems to be fine if you get a good one. Some don't. I would buy a Win before a new Delta. As a reference, I have never done more than 8 inch re-saw.
I do not understand the need for 2 or variable speed on a woodworking band saw. Metal yes, wood no. The low speeds do not seem to be low enough for metal work. Maybe someone could enlighten me.
FWIW, Sawblades.com is my generic source for bands. Truth is as far as I know, the actual band stock comes from only a couple factories, so the brand you buy is only the welder and packager. ( but if true, why do Bosch blades seem to suck?) I did have straightness issues with some 1/2 inch bands but my 3/8 and 1/4 are fine. I have moved to the Laguna 3/4 carbide and the weld seems to be very strait and flat. No thump-thump when sawing.
Yes, I over-analyze everything. Engineering mentality. Drives my wife crazy. Spreadsheets for everything. I have bought the wrong tool too many times and that is way too expensive. Details matter to me.
I have a Laguna. I hate the guides and I think they are a pain to adjust. I found a used Jet just so I don't have to change blades on the Laguna.
I think I will buy new guides for the Laguna.
I think I will buy new guides for the Laguna.
I have the laguna 1412. I dislike the ceramic guides strongly and if I could choose again I would first get a rikon with roller guides, and I would second make sure I did a 220 bandsaw.
I bought the laguna as it seemed at the time to be the more premium option. However, the rikon's guides are better to me now that I have tried both, and the rikon also has storage space in the base whereas the laguna is just empty space, which I find to be a waste. The laguna mobility kit is also not very good.
I bought the laguna as it seemed at the time to be the more premium option. However, the rikon's guides are better to me now that I have tried both, and the rikon also has storage space in the base whereas the laguna is just empty space, which I find to be a waste. The laguna mobility kit is also not very good.
