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Thread: Which Oil

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    Which Oil

    My boiled Linseed is past using, and want to try another Oil, Mid priced, suggestions?
    Just for mostly smaller projects I dont make furniture, Thanks.

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    Re: Which Oil

    Formby's Tung Oil finish gives good results for me. Also builds up on the surface so you can get a nice shine. Waterlox works too but it's much more expensive. Formby's is a wiping varnish and your boiled linseed oil is a penetrating oil.

    Roy G

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    Re: Which Oil

    Do you like the finish that you were getting with the BLO? If so, try pure tung oil instead. They're both penetrating oils and not a wiping varnish. A small sample is $3.50 if you want to try it first (also 1/2 pint and a pint are cheap).

    https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/o...ung-chinawood/

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    Re: Which Oil

    My son makes up mineral oil & beeswax finish, lots of recipes on Google about how to mix mineral oil into bees wax.

    His finishing schedule is:

    1) Flood wood with just mineral oil and allow to soak in for 24 hours. Then wipe off any access with a soft lint free rag.

    2) apply mineral beeswax mixture and buff with a lint free rag.

    The finish is supper easy and non-toxic. I'll slowly coming around to the finish but I still like 50/50 gloss oil based Polyurethane/Acetone, I don't like gas off period at all. So I've been using mineral oil beeswax finish more and more.
    Last edited by CrealBilly; 01-10-2019 at 12:16 AM.
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    Re: Which Oil

    Pete like me I know you do a lot of scroll saw work. I use WATCO Danish Oil or a similar product made by Deft called DEFTOIL. They contain BLO, poly and other ingredients. Unlike plain BLO they dry fully. Normally one or two coats are all I need. If I want more gloss I spray a light cost of rattle can lacquer after they dry.
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    Re: Which Oil

    Scott just finished Last supper scroll will post in Scrolling

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    Re: Which Oil

    Pete, on scroll saw work I will sometimes use Old English Lemon Oil, purchased at the grocery store. I flood it on and let it dry overnight. A light wiping and then usually apply 3 light coats of semi-gloss lacquer. Other times I spray on a coat of rattle can Bulls Eye Shellac, then the lacquer. Most always lightly sand with 320 or 400 grit between 2nd and 3rd coats of lacquer. The shellac is a sealer coat that promotes an even finish. Happy sawdusting!
    Experience is a hard teacher; she gives the test first, and the lesson later.

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    Re: Which Oil

    My goto Oil finish is Varnish Oil by Tried & True brand. Not exactly cheap, but it wipes on and you wipe off excess - very forgiving finish - it it gets scuffed just sand and re-apply. I use it on small pieces like scrollings and large furniture. A pint will last you forever on small pieces. One advantage of it is that it doesn't harden in the can like a lot of oil finishes do once opened.
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