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    Rust Removal Tests

    This guy did a pretty good test of various rust remove products. You might find it helpful.

    https://youtu.be/CQMzUkEKaBo

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Here's another test of penetrating oils that I found surprising. Your comments welcome.

    https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by patlaw View Post
    Here's another test of penetrating oils that I found surprising. Your comments welcome.

    https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs
    Good video. I use heat when I can. I'm surprised the trans and acetone did very little??

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    For the rust removers, his results on Evaporust mirror mine: Good rust removal but remaining spots of black passivated iron oxide in the deeper pits/heavy areas. My experience with the naval gel is that it has to be kept wet, and you have to use a lot of agitation (i.e. a lot of wire brushing to continually expose fresh rust). I was able to successfully use it to remove a lot of heavy rust off my lawn mower deck (something I could not submerge), but is can get expensive quickly. Had to cover the areas with saran wrap to keep them from drying out during the dwell times.

    Looking at the MDS on the Eastmans, it appears to be mainly urea hydrochloride. Expensive, but does look like it hits the heavier rust better. Had not heard of it before. Wonder if you could just submerge something in a hog farm lagoon (PHEW!!)

    As for the penetrating fluids, liquid wrench has been my go-to for many years (at least 50, LOL), although I have also used PB Blaster with some success. While I was in the military, one of the better things we found was the mil-spec jet engine oil.

    Thanks for the links.

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    Last edited by Gofor; 12-14-2018 at 12:33 PM.
    Practicing at practical woodworking

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    As for the penetrating fluids, liquid wrench has been my go-to for many years (at least 50, LOL), although I have also used PB Blaster with some success. While I was in the military, one of the better things we found was the mil-spec jet engine oil.


    If you liked the mil-spec, you can get the same results or darn close with Mobil 1. I was in the jet engine test business in the AF and I got to go down to the oil sample lab at least once a month. Found out some interesting stuff. With all the unused oil tht was collected out in Kirtland AFB, NM we managed to put it to some use at the Auto Hobby Shop.

    My results with the Acetone-Trans fluid were quite different than his. In the end, I use the heat/torch most of the time.

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    ​Vinegar will remove light rust. Most important! After vinegar, WD-40 to lift that acid off. Then some type of protective covering.

    Pop

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    My SawStop is developing a patina that I'm not crazy about. Maybe vinegar is the first thing for me to try, although I have some of the products in the videos. I'm also still interested in electrolysis.

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by Pop Golden View Post
    ​Vinegar will remove light rust. Most important! After vinegar, WD-40 to lift that acid off. Then some type of protective covering.
    By the way, how long should I leave the vinegar on the table top? Should I soak a rag with it? Cover it with plastic?

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by patlaw View Post
    My SawStop is developing a patina that I'm not crazy about. Maybe vinegar is the first thing for me to try, although I have some of the products in the videos. I'm also still interested in electrolysis.
    Mike, "patina"? If you are noticing a dull grey "patina" I would simply apply some paste wax. It won't make the surface look shinny new, but it does remove surface oxidation as well as provide some protection.
    DRW

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by drw View Post
    Mike, "patina"? If you are noticing a dull grey "patina" I would simply apply some paste wax. It won't make the surface look shinny new, but it does remove surface oxidation as well as provide some protection.
    It's splotchy. I'll like to clean it before adding wax.

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Personally, I would be reluctant to apply any acid (vinegar) on my table saw. I suggest you consider sanding with a ROS using 220 grit (or higher)...following with paste wax.
    DRW

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by drw View Post
    Personally, I would be reluctant to apply any acid (vinegar) on my table saw.
    Why?

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Why? Water/acid on cast iron is not something I would do unless the situation is really bad. While you may have good results, you could easily end up with a situation that looks worse than what you started with. My choice would be to keep the top dry (sand it) and then protect with application of a product that is non-corrosive (wax).
    DRW

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    What I use and think works great is exhaust pipe cleaner for my motorcylce. The stuff that removes the bluing on your pipes from heat and at the same time protects it with wax. Now this isn't for a ton of rust but just the surface stuff on a tablesaw top sitting in the garage or something like that.

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    Re: Rust Removal Tests

    Quote Originally Posted by jel111 View Post
    What I use and think works great is exhaust pipe cleaner for my motorcylce. The stuff that removes the bluing on your pipes from heat and at the same time protects it with wax. Now this isn't for a ton of rust but just the surface stuff on a tablesaw top sitting in the garage or something like that.
    Jeff I never tried what you describe on my old bike pipes??

    72-norton-commando.jpg
    72 Norton Commando with blue head curves.

    1968_triumph_bonneville_t120r_7.jpg
    This is a British Triumph Bonneville 650. Don't know if you were aware but both pistons on the Bonne and the Commando go up and down side by side here.


    I'm a little off on this as I heat blue some of my barrels for my rifles to STOP RUST IN THE FUTURE. When doing antique repairs(not old furniture but valuable handmade pieces from the 18th century with hand cut screws I have found lots of fire blued screws that don't have any rust on them. Those that were not heat treated are almost useless at times. Remember.. there were no brass screws in the 18th century. OK absolutes are an invitation for someone to quote youtube but as a rule you won't find them unless some "hack" has jammed in some brass screws from McMaster-Carr.



    I don't have a good furniture lock made of brass with iron/steel screws but here is a patchbox with heat blued screws. No rust on these screws down the road and none found on the original rifle from southwestern Virginia.

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