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    Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    I am in the early stages of building a small table/night stand to go next to a bed in the house. The piece will be made with cherry, a wood I don't use much after the prices went thru the clouds back in the early 1980's. My son gave me some cherry off cuts and I have enough to make the table but I'm short on the top surface. Not to worry. I like the combination of cherry and pretty walnut but I'm leaning towards some curly maple?? What's a poor boy to do?

    I like both types of wood but the decision on the top will be left till the last minute. I will post photos of the stages of the build if there is any interest in seeing a very plain style table along Shaker lines being built.

    I will include mortise and tenon joinery and hand built drawers. I will use cockbead drawer fronts with figured cherry faces.

    (below)
    The drawer on the left is a cockbead drawer with walnut around maple burl. Its a little tricky getting the burl to flatten down but once you get the little monster to behave, you're rolling. Some garnettlac makes the maple a little less white and easier on the eyes. A drop of two of yellow dye gives it a little warmth.

    These are just example drawers I use to show students in classes on making an 18th century drawer with hand tools.
















    Seedlac on curly maple. A little more color than standard Orange shellac. No dye needed.



    More to come..
    Last edited by danmart77; 09-13-2018 at 04:47 PM.

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    I think the contrast of cherry and curly maple top would be eye-catching, Dan. I look forward to your WIP as they are always informative.
    I like making things. I have a wood shop at home. I am a terrible carpenter but I love doing it. Raymond - Charlotte, NC

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    +1 on the curley maple.
    And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years.-- Abraham Lincoln

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Dan, whatever you decide will be beautiful! I have yet to seeing any of your creations that are anything less than absolutely stunning (both in beauty and craftsmanship)!
    DRW

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Another vote for the maple

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    veneer of maple over cherry to expose the edges.

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Dan, I think either wood would work well, but the curly maple will add some pop that the walnut would not. I would think hard about making the drawer front out of the same wood as the top but trim with with the cherry (ie. the cockbead would be cherry). It would not be "period correct", but again would add an unexpected element. Look forward to the pictures.

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Dan,
    Do you have a picture of how the cock beading was milled / what the profile looks like? Is there a lip around the drawer or just a smooth piece with a curved front?


    I have made cock beading once and I did this, but I'm not sure it was really necessary which is why I am curious about what you have done.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Another vote for the curly maple...

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    For me, it depends on how much attention you want to draw to the table. If you want it to be the center of attention and draw lots of comments, then go w/ the Maple. But if you want it to be subtle, or understated, go w/ the Walnut. I've used Cherry and Walnut together several times and like the look.
    I'll gladly tell you how I do something. Just please don't confuse that with the right way to do it, and almost certainly not the only way.


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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Dan,
    Do you have a picture of how the cock beading was milled / what the profile looks like? Is there a lip around the drawer or just a smooth piece with a curved front?

    I have made cock beading once and I did this, but I'm not sure it was really necessary which is why I am curious about what you have done.

    Cockbeading can be a little complicated to explain in writing here. Kinda' like explaining how to ride a bike.

    A few things to help make sense:
    - there is no lip on the applied beading strips like you display
    - the front edge is rounded to give the appearance of a bead before it is glued in place or nailed to the edge grain
    - the cockbead is applied and not scratched in like the factory furniture. Rather unsightly in my view
    - the bead is rarely thicker than a 1/16
    - with applied beading, you can wrap a cherry face drawer with a thin bead of walnut to hint at the table top wood as an example of the subtle things you can do with beading. The drawer below has a maple face and walnut bed.
    - applied cockbeading reached a high-water mark as the English and American cabinet makers in the colonies were competing to sell their creations. It allowed for some incredible figured mahogany to be used where it seemed awkward in the past.

    Jeremy
    Its funny how timing works. I just did a drawer demo at the Klingspor Extravaganza last Saturday and there wasn't much interest. I don't have photos of the demo drawer but I think I will take some photos and try to show how I go about it.

    I learned how to do this back in the 80-82 timeframe from a man who was trained in the traditional German style of building. Later I saw how the English did it and decided the first method was easier and clever. More to come.

    I just finished drilling and chopping 20 mortises last night and I have to fit tenons today as the storm approaches us.

    If I have time, I will pull out the demo drawer. If I don't have time today, I will photograph the build of the two table drawers as I progress. It might seem confusing but if you send along questions, I will try to break it down for you.



    The good news Jeremy is I don't have a ton of modern high tech toys to do this kind of work. Looking in the photo background you will see a 1958 bandsaw and my new second-hand WS. I cut most of the veneer on the BS. Most of the commercial figured stuff needs careful treatment to get it flat and stable but its another skill set to show another time.

    later






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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Strong recommendation for the maple. Cherry darkens over time, and you may find -- especially if you use oil-based finishes -- that it could approach the darkness of the walnut, which will lose the contrast effect. I say this from experience; you'll thank me in a couple of years.

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    Re: Undecided on the Table Top: Walnut or Curly Maple

    Quote Originally Posted by danmart77 View Post
    Dan,
    Do you have a picture of how the cock beading was milled / what the profile looks like? Is there a lip around the drawer or just a smooth piece with a curved front?

    I have made cock beading once and I did this, but I'm not sure it was really necessary which is why I am curious about what you have done.

    Cockbeading can be a little complicated to explain in writing here. Kinda' like explaining how to ride a bike.

    A few things to help make sense:
    - there is no lip on the applied beading strips like you display
    - the front edge is rounded to give the appearance of a bead before it is glued in place or nailed to the edge grain
    - the cockbead is applied and not scratched in like the factory furniture. Rather unsightly in my view
    - the bead is rarely thicker than a 1/16
    - with applied beading, you can wrap a cherry face drawer with a thin bead of walnut to hint at the table top wood as an example of the subtle things you can do with beading. The drawer below has a maple face and walnut bed.
    - applied cockbeading reached a high-water mark as the English and American cabinet makers in the colonies were competing to sell their creations. It allowed for some incredible figured mahogany to be used where it seemed awkward in the past.

    Jeremy
    Its funny how timing works. I just did a drawer demo at the Klingspor Extravaganza last Saturday and there wasn't much interest. I don't have photos of the demo drawer but I think I will take some photos and try to show how I go about it.

    I learned how to do this back in the 80-82 timeframe from a man who was trained in the traditional German style of building. Later I saw how the English did it and decided the first method was easier and clever. More to come.

    I just finished drilling and chopping 20 mortises last night and I have to fit tenons today as the storm approaches us.

    If I have time, I will pull out the demo drawer. If I don't have time today, I will photograph the build of the two table drawers as I progress. It might seem confusing but if you send along questions, I will try to break it down for you.



    The good news Jeremy is I don't have a ton of modern high tech toys to do this kind of work. Looking in the photo background you will see a 1958 bandsaw and my new second-hand WS. I cut most of the veneer on the BS. Most of the commercial figured stuff needs careful treatment to get it flat and stable but its another skill set to show another time.

    later
    Thanks Dan.

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