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Thread: Jetlock Fence

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    Jetlock Fence

    I recently found that the "head" on my jetlock fence was broken in two places, so I found another one to replace it. Now I cannot get the rear hook to lock on my fence.

    So far I have checked and adjusted:

    -rear fence hook (I found the leer was slightly bent and straigtened it)
    -used the better of two rubber bushings in the fence head
    -loosed and tightened the top bolts (all 4) on the fence itself
    -rails adjusted for coplanar and checked distance between table and rail

    Initially after replacing the fence head the fence would slide freely until it was about 6-8" away from the blade and then it would bind and required too much effort to move. I then loosened the bolts on the top of the fence which allowed the fence to slide freely (the rear slide block was getting stuck on the rear rail). I thought one of the rails may have bent or were not coplanar with one another (they were not coplanar, but now are).

    The fence head continues to lock on the front rail, but the rear hook does not lock against the back rail. I have used a clamp to lock the rear hook, but this is not a desirable solution since I know the fence used to work despite have a broken piece (the fence head). This is a picture of my fence (the white on the rear hook is lubrication, not a break. The saw blade mishap came with the saw).



    I've considered placing washers on the threaded rod in between the sleeve and fence "shoe" to take up some slack (202 and 197 in the below picture). I have loosened and tightened the threaded sleeve without change in the front clamp tightening.



    Any suggestions OTHER than replacing the fence system? It's not in the budget to replace the fence and I like the originality of fence.

    Thanks!
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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    From your description it sounds as though the front and rear rails are likely not parallel with one another and that one, or the other, may need adjustment to bring it back into line so that both remain parallel to one another across the full width of the table.

    I’m not familiar with Jet’s system but the process may be as simple as loosening a few bolts on one or both rails and gently tapping it into position and carefully tightening things down or it may require shimming with shimstock (brass or stainless steel, ideally) or enlarging bolt holes if the bolt holes are in the way of achieving alignment due to restricting adequate range of movement.

    If too uncertain it can sometimes be nice to invite a friend over if we have someone in your general area that is generally comfortable with tool alignment procedures. Unfortunately I am too far away, but perhaps another member is much closer to your area if you ask for volunteers. Sometimes just having that second set of eyes and experience can really help to improve ones confidence...plus if anything ever goes wrong you can both point fingers at “not me”, so it’s nobody’s fault and everyone’s off the hook while you try the next solution!

    Also, if you have not already done so, you may also wish to look for any YouTube videos regarding fence and rail adjustment for your saw’s fence system as you can often gain useful insight from such and oftentimes you will not be the first person to have that question.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Thank you for the response Ethan.

    I think I may need to clarify what I've already done.

    I adjusted the rails so that they are parallel to one another. The rails are also below the top of the table the same amount. The issue is not with the fence being perpendicular to the table top, but rather the rear hook not tightening enough on the outward rail. (circled in red in the picture below)




    The Jetlock fence is made by Delta/Milwaukee/Rockwell and came with my Unisaw. Bob Vaughn has posted a lot on this site and OWWM about the rubber bushing and various adjustments, which I have already checked and adjusted accordingly--but he is not local to me.

    I'm hopeful that someone who uses the Jetlock fence will have something obvious that I seem to be missing.
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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Have you tried tightening the bolt on the front of the fence just above the locking knob? It's been a while since I used that stile fence but I recall that bolt going all the way to the hook. Lock the fence then tighten the bolt to the desired tension. When you loosen the locking knob the hook should release.
    fred p If it ain't broke you aint trying hard enough

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Yes I have tried adjusting the slotted sleeve/bolt. That’s the sleeve/bolt that I’m thinking of putting washers in front of. The threaded rod doesn’t seem to move enough to actually pull the hook against the far rail.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Quote Originally Posted by zdorsch View Post
    Yes I have tried adjusting the slotted sleeve/bolt. That’s the sleeve/bolt that I’m thinking of putting washers in front of. The threaded rod doesn’t seem to move enough to actually pull the hook against the far rail.
    There is no sin in shimming things if needed. However, you may wish to first inspect that there is no excessive wear that might be causing the issue first and that nobody has cracked a casting (or other possible explanations where there is an underlying problem that must first be addressed). Sometimes manufacturing variations do result in inadequate room for compensation even with only minor wear, in which case shimming the adjusting bolt may well be a valid solution. On the other hand, if there is excessive wear around the rear hook then you may need to add a wear pad (such as a UHMW pad if you only need to pinch tightly but don’t need a lot of friction to immobilize the fence) to the rear to make up for the wear and prevent it from progressing further to a point of eventual damage, in which case the wear pad would become the shimming mechanism rather than the washer.

    Bob Vaughn is a regular here on NCWW and he often offers advice on issues such as this, so you may wish to contact him directly via PM and ask him if he has any advice for you to offer the thread as Bob is a great technical resource on such machinery.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Thanks for the kind words, guys.

    If the bushing is good, then chances are that the sheet metal angle pivot may be bent.


    This pivot is good and shows where it goes.



    Here's various bad components, both bad bushings and the pivots. Obviously the pivot on the right is no longer functioning.
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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Quote Originally Posted by bob vaughan View Post

    If the bushing is good, then chances are that the sheet metal angle pivot may be bent.
    This is a picture of my sheet metal angle. It seems like the nub is worn down on the palace where the hook connects.

    Bob, how much should the hook actually move? I’d guess mine moves about 1/16”.
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    Last edited by zdorsch; 09-11-2018 at 08:13 PM.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    A new angle may help.
    There are instructions on tuning that fence in some of the old Unisaw manuals.
    With the back hook loose, lock the front of the fence. Turn the tightening screw until the back of the fence is just secure. After that, the first part of the locking handle's arc locks the front of the fence and aligns it to the rip fence. The last part of the arc locks the back part.
    NEVER leave those jet lock fences in the locked position. It does serious wear on the rubber bushing.
    They are good fences when the components are in good shape and the operator uses good sense.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Quote Originally Posted by bob vaughan View Post
    A new angle may help.
    There are instructions on tuning that fence in some of the old Unisaw manuals.
    With the back hook loose, lock the front of the fence. Turn the tightening screw until the back of the fence is just secure. After that, the first part of the locking handle's arc locks the front of the fence and aligns it to the rip fence. The last part of the arc locks the back part.
    NEVER leave those jet lock fences in the locked position. It does serious wear on the rubber bushing.
    They are good fences when the components are in good shape and the operator uses good sense.
    Thank you Bob!

    I'm going to try this tonight when I get home.

    I'm also going to measure the distance between the rear rail and rear hook. I think there may be too much distance to adequately tighten the hook against the rail.

    Renovo is the only company offering the rubber bushing ($14 + $10 shipping). I wonder if a poly bushing would be better and if anyone is manufacturing one?

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Don't know about the poly bushings, but if poly bushings last like poly band saw tires, then don't waste your time.
    Making that bushing may be possible out of rubber air hose or automotive hose but you're going to have to figure a way to make a flange on it. If you do, then super glue works good for gluing rubber together.

    The rear hooks are steel and can be bent if put in a vise and pounded on. I've had to do that before.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Quote Originally Posted by bob vaughan View Post
    Don't know about the poly bushings, but if poly bushings last like poly band saw tires, then don't waste your time.
    Making that bushing may be possible out of rubber air hose or automotive hose but you're going to have to figure a way to make a flange on it. If you do, then super glue works good for gluing rubber together.

    The rear hooks are steel and can be bent if put in a vise and pounded on. I've had to do that before.
    It may be easier to find a deep rubber grommet and simply shave the flange off one side — so long as rubber grommets are not too soft, though I would think they would be similar to the original. You’d have to make some careful measurements to find the closest match in grommets, but you can usually fudge a little bit with grommets so close may be close enough.

    Just a thought that came to mind

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    Bob,

    I may try delrin.

    I sent your your bushing drawing from OWWM to my dad who is a machinist. I’m hoping will have an idea for a good replacement!

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    The fence finally locks again! (And moves smoothly in the tails after waxing).

    I ended up using the instructions from Bob with a spacer and it works. The spacer ended up being s “nylon bushing” from the box store that I cut down and resized the ID.

    I also plan to replace the original rubber bushing with another made from another material.

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    Re: Jetlock Fence

    I've considered a couple of times to make a mold and fill it with clear silicone. Since it takes a while to cure that's always stopped me. Maybe one day I'll try it again. Sure, I know about all the fool around required to get a perfect bubble-free mold, but for this application I expect close enough is good enough. It seems to me that silicone, once set up, should be both resilient and durable enough.

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