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  1. #16
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    I had some bumps and tips in my last oil finish so I thought why not scrape instead of sand.. It worked great. My card scraper was super sharp and smooth and I barely touched the finish, just skimmed the surface. The next coat went on glass smooth and i left it at that.



    One machine can do the work of 50 ordinary men. No machine can do the work of one extraordinary man." -Elbert Hubbard

    WWFD

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  3. #17
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Davis View Post
    I had some bumps and tips in my last oil finish so I thought why not scrape instead of sand.. It worked great. My card scraper was super sharp and smooth and I barely touched the finish, just skimmed the surface. The next coat went on glass smooth and i left it at that.
    If we do another finishing workshop we should include this as a feature / solution....
    People are amazed as a shaving rises from the throat of a plane as if itís a spell plucked from a sorcererís hand Ė Paul Sellers

  4. #18
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    I've been making a concerted effort to reduce the amount I sand and learn to prepare and properly use card scrapers. The more I practice the better it works. I've also started to take one pass with the smoother plane after machine milling (TS/Planer/Jointer) and this has greatly reduced the need to sand/scrape as a final step.

    Never too old to learn I guess...
    "Remember - If the women don't find ya handsome, they should at least find ya handy!" - Red Green
    "Always take hold of things by the smooth handle." - Thomas Jefferson

  5. #19
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    I agree with all the above. I particularly like to use card scrapers. Having said that though, how do most of you all get perpendicular grain joints smooth? For instance where the rail and stile meet on a frame and panel cabinet door.

  6. #20
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    The easiest way is to get everything prepped before glue up

  7. #21
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    Quote Originally Posted by AllanD View Post
    I agree with all the above. I particularly like to use card scrapers. Having said that though, how do most of you all get perpendicular grain joints smooth? For instance where the rail and stile meet on a frame and panel cabinet door.
    VERY sharp plane. If I'm doing the edge, I set the plane shallow and come in on the end grain first across to the long grain. On the face, I start on the high side with the grain and take short strokes kinda diagonally across the corner toward the low side. Once flush or very close to, finish with the card scraper.
    "Remember - If the women don't find ya handsome, they should at least find ya handy!" - Red Green
    "Always take hold of things by the smooth handle." - Thomas Jefferson

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  9. #22
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Davis View Post
    I had some bumps and tips in my last oil finish so I thought why not scrape instead of sand.. It worked great. My card scraper was super sharp and smooth and I barely touched the finish, just skimmed the surface. The next coat went on glass smooth and i left it at that.

    Yes a card scraper works great. Not sure where I saw this, I use a card scraper without a hook - just a fresh 90 degree edge. As Mike said, just float it over the surface and it will remove imperfections. Also much faster than sanding

  10. #23
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    OK let me introduce a technique I have mentioned before but it didn't go anywhere. The technique I use to avoid sanding is a technique in the 18th century they referred to as "boning" the surface" of the wood. Don't leave.

    For surfaces like a cabriole leg or a rifle stock, you shape it with files, refine with spokeshaves and card scrapers but it just doesn't get it. What do you do? Sand? Thats one option but it leads to swirls in the grain and introduces work to the work.

    Not one part of the stocks below was sanded. All were shaped, scraped and boned.

    What is boning? Glad you asked.

    If you have ever taken a burnishing tool and rolled a burr on a card scraper you can "bone" a surface.

    I don't use this technique on large flat surfaces but I use it on turnings, carvings, rifle stocks on other surfaces that need to look "polished" before the surface finish is done.



    I took a polished burnishing tool: a valve from a diesel engine and crushed the fibers on the walnut stock above and below. No sanding






    The project below was "boned" from end to end to prep for "Aqua Fortis" coloring. This is water based. Regardless of the positions of other self appointed finishing gurus, I apply water at least twice to raise the grain then lightly scrape the fuzz and the burnish with my rod till it shines.





    If you have a burnishing rod, just try it out on the wood. Looking at the photo above its apparent the trigger guard section wash burnished but look closer.. See the arm of the chair? When I got done turning it to shape I finished with a rod as it turned and burnished it to a shine. No sanding.

    So..is sanding the bad guy in the act? No. Sanding can be a long waste of time. If you like sanding ignore the inputs here. If the dust and the noise gets to you.. maybe its time to try some other method of preparing a surface.



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  12. #24
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    Apparently I need to up my plane game. I love the planes but it always seems to leave tracks on large surfaces. Guess I need to add more camber to the blade edges? I'd love to sand less.

  13. #25
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    Quote Originally Posted by mbromley View Post
    Apparently I need to up my plane game. I love the planes but it always seems to leave tracks on large surfaces. Guess I need to add more camber to the blade edges? I'd love to sand less.
    I am still learning how to camber a blade correctly. I started to get better when I finally realized just how small of a curve you need to make. I cambered a new blade for my 164 smoothing plane and it only has about .002 total curve over its total width. If I put a straight edge (not metal) across the blade there is only approx .001 clearance on each end. That is not much, just enough to see light thru, some might say a frog's hair. When I set the plane for a very light cut there are no side tracks.

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  15. #26
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    Re: Sand less ... or not at all

    Quote Originally Posted by JimD View Post
    I don't like sharpening my planes either. I guess I need to sharpen one with a slight radius on the iron so I can plane without leaving lines in a surface wider than the iron. Is that what you guys do for a table top?
    Exactly. I put a very slight camber on the blade, so that you can barely see it when held to a straight surface. Starting at one edge, you can work across the surface, slightly overlapping the strokes.

    Phil was correct in what he has said - but his title is backwards - it should be 'Sand not or all ... or less'

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