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  1. #1
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    Part of the Unisaw Club

    I'm glad I waited and didn't buy either of the saws that I asked opinioins about in this closed thread.

    I ended up finding the below Unisaw for $300:

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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Congrats Zach. Assuming everything is in good shape, that's a good price on a classic Unisaw. Mine is a 1982 model and looks very similar to yours. If there is any money left in the budget, I would try to add an upmarket fence.
    I'll gladly tell you how I do something. Just please don't confuse that with the right way to do it, and almost certainly not the only way.


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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Great score Zach! I agree with what Bill said; a good fence is 50% of the quality and accuracy of the cut.
    Experience is a hard teacher; she gives the test first, and the lesson later.

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  6. #4
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    I am somewhat biased, very smart lad!

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  8. #5
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Great find Zach.
    Measure twice... cut once... SCREAM LOUDLY... get another board

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  10. #6
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    Bob Vaughan
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    The original fence design can work satisfactory but it does have a chronic weak point. There's a rubber bushing in the fence clamping arm that gets worn out over the years. This rubber bushing puts the tension on the front rail. Leaving the fence clamped down will wear this bushing to the point that the fence doesn't hold well and won't align when the locking handle is rotated downward. Replace this bushing and the fence will operate as new. There's also a stamped sheet metal pivot in the rear that sometimes gets worn. If that's the case, then it needs replacement. Both parts aren't expensive and usually available from Renovo parts.



    The locking arm, rubber bushings, and broken rear pivot. A new bushing is shown on the left and a new pivot is on the left (obviously)




    Another worn bushing that needs replacement


    There were two styles of locking arms. Both work equally well.
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  12. #7
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Thanks all!

    Bob, thank you especially for the tip to rebuild the fence and the link for another parts supplier.

    I was adjusting the blad tilt tonight when I heard a "pop" and this is what I saw:



    After removing the top this:



    So, now I've joined OWWM, checked ebay and plan to call a local welding shop today.

    I have already watched the Fine Woodworking videos about restoring a Unisaw and I had read the unisaw disambly instructions found on OWWM. With the help of the written instructions, a friend and I tore the saw down last night.

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  13. #8
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    That's a bad thing, but not catastrophic. That break could be brazed. It doesn't look like there's a break in any of the critical alignment areas. As long as the weld/braze gets the bracket reasonably aligned, you'll be ok. Had the break gone through the middle of the tilt rod bosses or the trunnion boss, replacement would be your best bet. Of the industrial grade saws, Unisaw parts the most available on the used market.


    Unbroken trunnion bracket showing the casting details.
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  14. #9
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club



    I started replacing arbor bearings on a Unisaw like that yesterday for one of my customers and found the cast arbor bracket had broken...welded it back together, put in the new bearings, put it back together,and re-aligned it today...customer was happy because we couldn’t find a new or used bracket, and was afraid he’d have to buy a new saw.

  15. #10
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Thanks for the info Bob and Phil!

    i dropped by a shop on Friday and he is going to spark test the part Monday and get back to me on the feasibility of repair. He seemed to doubt that it could be repaired—so I’m not sure what to expect.

  16. #11
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    It should be weld or braze easily. Its good cast iron. There's bad cast iron also and repair welders are seeing more and more of it so they have to be cautious about predicting outcome.

  17. #12
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Thanks Bob, I tried to kindly point out that it was an older part used in an industrial machine of good quality. At the same time I tried to limit how much I said because he’s the guy that welds for a living (I worked in a machine shop during college and we used to deal with folks wanting work done that knew more than our machinists—I don’t want to be that guy!).

  18. #13
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Good luck with the welder. Once welded, the worst thing that could happen is a slight misalignment of the mounting holes. That will necessitate reaming/filing oblong the mounting holes on the flange on the top of the cabinet so the miter gauge slot will align with the blade and that's more of a petty annoyance than anything.

    You're building for yourself a $3K+ value saw, so stick with it.

  19. #14
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    Wow great pick up! My cabinet saw hunt continues... Keep us updated on how the fix goes.

  20. #15
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    Re: Part of the Unisaw Club

    I hope he knows what he's doing. Welding cast iron is not easy and someone who doesn't have the experience will quickly destroy the part. Brazing is the safest repair.

    It can be welded with the proper preparation and a special high nickel content rod, but preheating before welding, and a very slow cool down is needed or it will crack in many places.

    Charley

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