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  1. #1
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    Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    I just finished this tilt-top candle stand and wanted to share. The wood is African Mahogany and the piece is 26 1/2" tall. It, like the highboy I posted on 10/22, is from Norman Vandal's Queen Anne Furniture (what a great book!). In Vandal's piece, the top is 17" in diameter. I wanted the top to be a solid board and the widest piece of African mahogany I could find was 16" (thanks ebay). After turning it round on the lathe, the finished top is 15 3/4" in diameter. This was a fun, small project and I really enjoyed working on it. Thanks for looking.

    Rob Liles






  2. #2
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Beautiful work Rob!

  3. #3
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Very nice Rob, a true classic.
    Measure twice... cut once... SCREAM LOUDLY... get another board

  4. #4
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    I really like the classic look of this. What is your finish sched. ?

  5. #5
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Very nicely crafted Rob! I don't want my wife to see this one or you know what she'll be wanting.
    Experience is a hard teacher; she gives the test first, and the lesson later.

  6. #6
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    beautiful piece Rob, what did you use for hinge and stop?
    Finish?
    Ed

  7. #7
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Very nicely done. I think it was a good choice to use a single piece top. Makes it unique.
    Ban shredded cheese, make America grate again.

    "May the grain be with you" - Roy Underhill

  8. #8
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Thanks for the comments. Tom from Clayton, the finish is as follows; I sand everything to 220 grit. On turned pieces (the pedestal and top) that are sanded on the lathe, even at 220 grit, there will be sanding scratches across the grain. I have learned from trial and error that if I follow the sanding on the lathe with a course, medium and then fine scotch-brite abrasive pad that those last scratches disappear. I then used a water based dye, very diluted, to even out the differences in colors in the various wood pieces. The top, for example, was a good bit darker than the pedestal and feet and this evened it out. Due to the complexity of the pedestal, I sprayed the dye which I have found to be a much better and more even way of applying water based dye. I then applied six coats of General Finishes satin Enduro-Var water based finish rubbing each coat out with progressively finer scotch-brite abrasive pads. Oddly enough, I brushed on the finish instead of spraying due to the temperature and the small size of the piece. It would have taken about three times as much time to set up, prepare the spray and clean up the spray equipment than brushing on the finish. Plus, I enjoyed the quiet and some decent music on in the background while doing that.

    Ed, the top of the pedestal has a 1 1/2" round tenon turned on it where a 3 1/2" square block is then mounted. Two stretchers are mounted to the underside of the top in line with the grain and the top then pivots on 3/8" wooden pins mounted off center in the block. The top is locked in place with a tilt-top latch I got from Horton Brasses. I'm not sure I'm describing it accurately and it is much better seen than explained.

    Again, thanks for looking and your comments. Rob

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  10. #9
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Nicely done!

    Wayne
    ..............found out many years ago that Elbow Grease doesn't come in a bottle!!!!

  11. #10
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    That is one beautiful piece of furniture!
    Happiness is a direction not a destination. ~Athena Orchard

  12. #11
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Wow, great looking piece. How did you attach the legs? I am thinking of doing a table with three legs like that and not sure what joinery to use to be sure it comes out even and level.

  13. #12
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    Re: Tilt-Top Candle Stand

    Mel,

    The legs are attached to the pedestal post using sliding dovetails.

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