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  1. #31
    Senior User Brogan's Avatar
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Bill, I know it's over engineered - I mentioned that in a previous post.

    However, it didn't really cost me any extra, a few $ at most, so I'm fine with it.

    I have essentially built it as a free standing structure which just happens to be screwed to the wall - I don't trust the house framing - I saw them building it.

  2. #32
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    ^^

  3. #33
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    You have to keep in mind that most tract builders today don't use an engineering book, they use a code book, which is the minimum standard to which anything can be built. Having said that, most first time (and some second time) home buyers ask only a few questions:

    1. How many square feet?
    2. What are my mortgage payments?

    It doesn't take Dick Tracy to figure out that with the aggressive building and buying going on today that builders can't afford to give you any extra nails or wood - in their minds...........
    WHAT BOX?

  4. #34
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brogan View Post
    Bill, I know it's over engineered - I mentioned that in a previous post.

    However, it didn't really cost me any extra, a few $ at most, so I'm fine with it.

    I have essentially built it as a free standing structure which just happens to be screwed to the wall - I don't trust the house framing - I saw them building it.
    You build to fit your needs and desires. As I said, it's looking good.

    It may very well the only standing structure in the event a tornado takes the rest of the house to Oz.
    Happiness is a direction not a destination. ~Athena Orchard

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  6. #35
    Senior User Brogan's Avatar
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    In hindsight, I should have done the landing full width and the steps/stringers dropped down to the first step, rather than having them flush with the landing.

    Doing it the way I have means the stringers are longer and therefore more work, and as I can only get a single stringer from an 8' 2x12, there's a lot of waste (I can't fit 12' boards in my car).

    You live and learn.

  7. #36
    Senior User Brogan's Avatar
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    So ... I have 7 boxes of flint maple flooring in the attic (https://www.mohawkflooring.com/hardw.../Flint%20Maple).

    I've been toying with the idea of using this for the stairs as it's just going to go unused.

    I can't come up with a decent solution for the edge/nosing though.
    I can buy nosing from HD but it's a costly option at $30 a step and it results in a horrible lip at the edge of the step which is both aesthetically displeasing and, I suspect, disconcerting in use (http://www.laminate-flooring-install...e-molding.html).

    I really just want something which will hide the cut edge of the laminate on both the riser and tread, preferably flush with it (bear in mind there is no overhang on the steps - it is a flush square edge).
    So essentially a 3/8" quarter round beading.

    Yes, yes, I know it's overkill for garage steps but as this is the main ingress/egress point of the house, I want to at least try and make it look like it's not the servants' entrance

  8. #37
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Paul:
    I haven't checked out the details of the flooring, or nosing, except to find out this is laminate flooring. As this is a pseudo exterior set of steps, are you certain that laminate flooring is rough enough to provide grip? Smooth treads could be a slippery disaster with wet feet. If I were to do such an install, I would likely purchase and install and edge/nosing piece that was ridged or textured in order to provide a non-slip/grip surface (and maybe visual contrast).
    Henry W
    Prolific creator of sawdust, and sometimes shavings - with the occasional completed project.

  9. #38
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    That's a good point Henry.

    I also considered the ribbed metal nosings which one typically finds in exterior/commercial applications.

  10. #39
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Paul,

    Are you using SYP for the treads? If so, why not paint them or use a clear-coat poly meant for steps? Round over the front edge and finished!

  11. #40
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brogan View Post
    I also considered the ribbed metal nosings which one typically finds in exterior/commercial applications.
    Paul - the only time I have used laminate on stairs was in an office setting (an older building), and that is exactly what I used. Maybe I am paranoid, but 'non-slip' is my rule for stair treads, inside or out.
    Henry W
    Prolific creator of sawdust, and sometimes shavings - with the occasional completed project.

  12. #41
    Senior User Brogan's Avatar
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Stringers and the frame are done.

    I officially hate stringers.
    I can imagine that doing two probably isn't so bad but getting 5 to be perfectly level, etc. was a pain (it needed 5 due to the span and the infamous code).



    I did learn something else in the process - level the floor first and use that to rest the stringers on.

    Zach, standard 5/4x1x6 is the default option but I'd like something a little less utilitarian.
    I could go for SYP though and insulate the bottom riser where it touches the garage floor, to avoid any damp issues.

    Thanks again for the input Henry - it has been invaluable.
    I'm so glad you mentioned the landing - the steps wouldn't have been anywhere near as good without it.
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  14. #42
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Not to knit pick, but why didnt you make the stairs with just 3 risers?. Also, the stringers should be notched to sit on a horizontal ledger at the top.

  15. #43
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    I looked at both options - standard stringer and flush stringer.

    Notching is not required - this is no different to attaching a stringer to a double height ledger.

    In hindsight, I would have gone with a standard stringer, but this is also a valid option.

  16. #44
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brogan View Post
    I looked at both options - standard stringer and flush stringer.

    Notching is not required - this is no different to attaching a stringer to a double height ledger.

    In hindsight, I would have gone with a standard stringer, but this is also a valid option.
    So, you build the landing strong enough to park the car on and leave the steps supported by the nails?

  17. #45
    Senior User Brogan's Avatar
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    Re: Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

    I'm using stringer hangers which is what they're designed for.

    It's far better than what the builder did which was a few nails toenailed in.

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