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  1. #1
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    Finally started on new shop

    Got the first stud wall built along the back wall. Very minor progress, but you got to start somewhere. This one was fairly easy with no obstructions to work around.



    Still need to add insulation and a covering. This corner will end up being the office space so will probably put up T1-11 siding on it.

    After putting down the DriCore Sub-floor I'll probably put down some finish click lock flooring in this area. Just the sub-floor will go down in the main shop area.

    The next section of wall is going to be much more difficult as there are obstructions to work around with the framing.



    I got a stand for the DeWalt Miter Saw which has really helped with the construction - since the shop isn't there to help with the task. Chicken/Egg sort of thing. Need a shop to build a shop. But the saw stand has been a great investment. Especially since I didn't win the one from the raffle like I wanted to.



    All of that clutter in the background will just keep getting moved around as the work progresses. Need to get some done so there's a place to put things away.

    But it is at least started now.
    Ban shredded cheese, make America grate again.

    "May the grain be with you" - Roy Underhill

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Good start there Ken. Looking forward to seeing more pics of your transformation.

    Quick question.....I notice that you didn't put any blocking in between the vertical studs. I watched the stick built construction of a two car garage next door and also saw no blocking. Have newer construction methods deviated away from blocking in stick built walls these days?

    Wayne
    ..............found out many years ago that Elbow Grease doesn't come in a bottle!!!!

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Good progress so far Ken, I bet it feels good getting started on the new shop.
    Last edited by Jim M.; 06-22-2017 at 06:16 PM.
    Measure twice... cut once... SCREAM LOUDLY... get another board

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Ken,

    Couldn't help but notice that the walls are cast-in-place concrete. If these are below grade, I'd recommend adding a coating of DryLok to insure no moisture comes through (no visible evidence of past issues, but good insurance). If you are going to insulate and to simplify the construction of the wall with the sewer line, I would sacrifice 4" of wall depth and build your stud wall out from that CIP wall, leaving an access point for the clean out. You may also want to remove the conduit and run NM wiring in the new wall for your shop circuits. I had a similar situation in my basement shop and added a vapor barrier and an offset stud wall that I tied into the joists above and then wired all walls for shop circuits before I insulated it. Just a suggestion.
    Every day brings a new adventure -- it is great to be retired!

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Quote Originally Posted by Canuck View Post
    Good start there Ken. Looking forward to seeing more pics of your transformation.

    Quick question.....I notice that you didn't put any blocking in between the vertical studs. I watched the stick built construction of a two car garage next door and also saw no blocking. Have newer construction methods deviated away from blocking in stick built walls these days?

    Wayne
    Thanks, just getting started.

    The structural framing is already in place with the concrete poured walls in the basement. This is just a facade to allow me to add insulation and provide a stud wall to hang stuff on.
    Ban shredded cheese, make America grate again.

    "May the grain be with you" - Roy Underhill

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  8. #6
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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Quote Originally Posted by McRabbet View Post
    Ken,

    Couldn't help but notice that the walls are cast-in-place concrete. If these are below grade, I'd recommend adding a coating of DryLok to insure no moisture comes through (no visible evidence of past issues, but good insurance). If you are going to insulate and to simplify the construction of the wall with the sewer line, I would sacrifice 4" of wall depth and build your stud wall out from that CIP wall, leaving an access point for the clean out. You may also want to remove the conduit and run NM wiring in the new wall for your shop circuits. I had a similar situation in my basement shop and added a vapor barrier and an offset stud wall that I tied into the joists above and then wired all walls for shop circuits before I insulated it. Just a suggestion.
    Rob,

    Thanks for the suggestions, all are appreciated. There are no water problems here as we are at the top of a hill - about 200 feet up from the creek.

    The idea of moving the wall out from the wall to avoid the sewer pipe is intriguing. Rather than build a box around the pipe, simply move the wall in a few inches is maybe a good idea. I need to evaluate that option. Thanks again for the suggestion.

    That main line of circuits along the wall also feeds the outside receptacles. This is something on the home inspection list that needs to be dealt with. There is actually a lot of electrical work that needs to be done in the basement. The original owner had a lot of extension cords running everywhere that need to be replaced with dedicated circuits. Once I get the framing done, I really need an electrician to completely re-wire the basement circuits. The good news is that there are 2 separate 200 Amp service panels in the basement - not a panel and sub-panel, but 2 complete 200 Amp service panels.
    Ban shredded cheese, make America grate again.

    "May the grain be with you" - Roy Underhill

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    I did the offset wall in my shop and it allowed easy wall construction and the appropriate placement of outlets for shop tools. Sounds like you'll have plenty of power available. If you leave the existing conduit and outlet box, it could be covered and a box extension added to the existing outlet box out to the new stud wall is needed (or just eliminate that outlet set and put a cover on it, leaving another access point if needed in the future). Just remember to do all of your wiring rough-ins before adding insulation. Looking good!
    Every day brings a new adventure -- it is great to be retired!

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Feels good to get started, doesn't it Ken. Look forward to following your progress.
    I'll gladly tell you how I do something. Just please don't confuse that with the right way to do it, and almost certainly not the only way.


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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    I can imagine the internal excitement of beginning your dream shop Ken.m Looking forward to your sharing the adventure with us!
    Experience is a hard teacher; she gives the test first, and the lesson later.

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Good luck Ken! I did not enjoy working with all those twisted and warped 2x4's when doing framing. The last batch of wood I had delivered from Home Depot was Qty=100 2x4x10's. I only needed about 50 or so. I sent 40 of them back when I had the OSB and rigid foam delivered and I didn't have to pay any extra cost. I sorted the pile into "keepers" and "rejects" and left the rejects in the garage until the next delivery. Didn't even have to haul them down to the basement. That was a tip I got from a friend who has their general contractors license.

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  17. #11
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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Scuteri View Post
    Good luck Ken! I did not enjoy working with all those twisted and warped 2x4's when doing framing. The last batch of wood I had delivered from Home Depot was Qty=100 2x4x10's. I only needed about 50 or so. I sent 40 of them back when I had the OSB and rigid foam delivered and I didn't have to pay any extra cost. I sorted the pile into "keepers" and "rejects" and left the rejects in the garage until the next delivery. Didn't even have to haul them down to the basement. That was a tip I got from a friend who has their general contractors license.
    I may have gotten lucky but most of the 2x4's delivered are very straight - a couple of the PT ones are a little twisty, but on the whole I'm quite pleased with what the local HD delivered.

    Phil has volunteered to come up and help me with the framing for a half day next week. What a great friend. I can not only use the help but the expert advice as well. He also helped me last week taking apart some of the cabinetry in the old shop. Now I just need to get more stuff packed there.
    Ban shredded cheese, make America grate again.

    "May the grain be with you" - Roy Underhill

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Wayne----I have noticed the same thing in houses being built in this area. Even with 10' ceilings, there is no blocking in the walls to keep the studs from bowing. A lot of things have changed since I last worked out in the field of construction.

    Jerry
    We make a living by what we get...............We make a life by what we give

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Getting started seems to often be the hardest part. After that, it all downhill.
    The thing that holds up all my woodworking is simply getting started.

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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    On the wall with the sewer pipe, why not frame it out of 2 X 6's instead of 2 X 4's? You could re run pipe horizontally (with slope) to vertical above clean out. You might have to use a 45 at clean out to achieve vertical. It would make it a lot easier to frame.

  24. #15
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    Re: Finally started on new shop

    Phil S came by and helped with the framing on Tuesday and provided a lot of much needed advise to me on how to proceed. We also got a lot done before he had to head back to Raleigh. Thanks much Phil.

    Anyway, we decided to just move the wall inside the plumbing and electrical wiring on the wall so as not to have to mess with a lot of bump-outs and notches.



    That area is going to be an office space and I'm almost finished framing that. Will probably start putting the sub-floor and actual wood flooring down in that space this next week.



    I also mostly finished the framing around the mechanical area in the other back corner.



    We started the partition walls around the garage bay but didn't install the back wall there as that is where all the lumber is stacked. Will do that wall last.



    I got some metal studs to put behind the gas heater - not required as it lists zero clearance behind it but rather be safer than sorry when it comes to fire. Will probably sheet rock that wall and the garage with fireproof sheet rock.


    You can see the heater 3 foot to left of this stud wall and 3 foot to right of the one below. That is the section that will have metal studs installed.



    After framing and wiring comes insulation and some kind of wall covering. Thanks again to Phil for all the help and advice.
    Ban shredded cheese, make America grate again.

    "May the grain be with you" - Roy Underhill

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