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Thread: Epoxy filler

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Quote Originally Posted by CrealBilly View Post
    Stuff like that I just squirt some CA glue, throw some saw dust at it then squirt a little more CA glue, hit it with CA glue hardner/excelerator and scrape or sand ...
    What is'CA' glue?

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    It's the secret code word for Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Quote Originally Posted by CrealBilly View Post
    hit it with CA glue hardner/excelerator
    Accelerator can make CA cloudy/milky so you may want to do a practice run on a piece of scrap and use the finish schedule you plan to use over it before diving headfirst into it.

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Quote Originally Posted by CrealBilly View Post
    Stuff like that I just squirt some CA glue, throw some saw dust at it then squirt a little more CA glue, hit it with CA glue hardner/excelerator and scrape or sand flush. No since in messing around with epoxy, trying to color match and make it all pretty... 30 seconds and your done and working the next step already.
    Your "6" long wood borer slot" is way to big for filling with CA glue. CA is mostly used for areas like small cracks or knots.

    A few pics of what you want to fix with length/width & depth will clarify the discussion for all of us. There may be other ways to fix it.

    What is the wood species that you're using?

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
    Your "6" long wood borer slot" is way to big for filling with CA glue. CA is mostly used for areas like small cracks or knots.

    A few pics of what you want to fix with length/width & depth will clarify the discussion for all of us. There may be other ways to fix it.

    What is the wood species that you're using?
    Thanks Jeff ... I get it that super glue is mostly for small cracks only. Sizewise ... if you put both pinky fingers together end to end ... that's about the 6"lg, width/depth of the good 'ol wood borer path. So clearly this will have to be 'poured' in order to fill the void. I'll either brush on some shellac just around the edge or line the edge with tape to keep bleedover to a min. There are several places overall that need in-fill as well.

    I've done a little research parallel to this and am considering tinting the clear epoxy filler with a gem powder, crushed stone material. The wood material is some very dry, super hard white oak. I found some rough sawn, 8/4, 2 x 8 material ... it's fairly rough material with knots, checks, small cracks and such but perfect for my application. This is to build another porch swing for my house, like the one below. The one via the link, I built for my daughter:



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    Re: Epoxy filler

    I heard there was a study on some 20+ year shelf stored west systems epoxy that, although yellowed, still met all of it's specifications on strength.

    Also for really small voids where a full pump isn't needed I found a medicine syringe from tractor supply is very cheap and allows for precise small quantities to be mixed. Don't mix too much like I recently did (4 or 5 pumps) as it started off-gassing. Also to remove bubbles very quickly pass a torch across the surface to release the bubbles.

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Speaking of screwing up like I did in above post, how would you fix this, router/dremel some out and fill will colored, paint it, make it cloudy/frosted...? It's a larger void that I filled, mixed too much, it heated up too fast, bubble off gassed, overheated and cracked. 20170704_112310.jpg

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Eddie,
    Did you get an answer to this?
    I will have a similar situation and I am VERY curious!

    To the expert that answers this question: Can you fill that whole void at once or do you have to do it in steps?
    “Think about it: Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge, timber framer and blacksmith instructor

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Quote Originally Posted by Hmerkle View Post
    Eddie,
    Did you get an answer to this?
    I will have a similar situation and I am VERY curious!

    To the expert that answers this question: Can you fill that whole void at once or do you have to do it in steps?
    Right now I am just finishing it as it and seeing how it looks. If it ends translucent I think it will be fine, but the general idea is to build it up. After I got the bottom filled and it hardened I did the wrong thing next. I mixed about 5 pumps of each 105/206 and before it hardened but was just starting I did 5 more...then it got hairy, bubbled off gassed, cracked...dont do that. Also apparently I should have used a filler. You live you learn. I'll post final pics in about a week.

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Quote Originally Posted by Hmerkle View Post
    Eddie,
    Did you get an answer to this?
    I will have a similar situation and I am VERY curious!

    To the expert that answers this question: Can you fill that whole void at once or do you have to do it in steps?
    Hank, I just filled a deep void (knothole) using an epoxy resin for fiberglass. I bought a qt can, Bondo brand,from Lowes - also I added palm sander dust for body and will let you know on the results.

    Ciao ... Dorm

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    Re: Epoxy filler

    Hank ... I wanted to give some feedback on using an epoxy filler to fill a thru-hole in wood. I filled a knothole approx dia of a quarter on both sides of the board. See the images at the bottom. The board was 1-1/2" thk and white oak material. The hole tapered down towards the middle but was thru from top to bottom. I taped the bottom and poured an epoxy filler slowly into the void and it filled it all the way - no bubbles. The epoxy I used, I purchased at Lowes, and I assume the epoxy was to be used in conjunction with fiberglass for repairs, bondo or such. When mixed, the consistency was about 30w motor oil thickness - so plenty loose, syrupy but not too watery. When filled, it puddled on top and also sort of piled up to about 1/8" thickness.

    I let it sit overnight till hard and then sanded with 80g palm sander til smooth. You can see the results from the pics ... no bubbles, fully flush on both sides. Perhaps I just got lucky, but it seemed to work for my application. A typical 'mix' for me would only be ~2oz, and poured into a plastic cup - not a wax coated paper cup. I've used this epoxy for another project and it did take me a few tries to get the resin-hardener mix figured out. At first I didn't use enough hardener and the epoxy wouldn't harden up so I'd have to dig it out and try again. The little tube you get with the can seems barely enough, so I was sparse with the hardener at first. Once I found I could buy just the hardener I used a bit more (maybe 5 drops or so more) and problem solved. Hope this helps.

    Ciao ... Dorm



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