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Thread: Masonry bit

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    Masonry bit

    Would I use a regular Masonry Bit for drilling thru brick ?

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    Re: Masonry bit

    short answer: yes.

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    Re: Masonry bit

    Its also easier if you have access to a rotary impact drill.

    Roy G

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    Re: Masonry bit


    Yep, but make it a good bit!
    "The American Republic will endure until politicians realize they can bribe the people with their own money!" Alex de Tocqueville"

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    Re: Masonry bit

    A rotary hammer drill with a masonry bit will work well. If you are drilling thru it is very common to blow out the back of the brick. Either drill in from both sides or press very lightly as you drill thru or hold a block of wood behind the brick if possible.

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    Re: Masonry bit

    Quote Originally Posted by Ptofimpact View Post
    Would I use a regular Masonry Bit for drilling thru brick ?
    Only if it is a small diameter hole or you are a masochist. Otherwise you would really want to use a rotary hammer bit, but then you will also need a rotary hammer drill (not a "hammer drill" but a "rotary" hammer drill, very different beasts). That is, assuming, these are the typical very hard bricks (like fired clay) and not especially soft or old and brittle bricks, in which case an ordinary masonry bit and drill would likely do just fine.

    The reason one wants to use a rotary hammer drill and the proper roatary hammer bit when drilling into hard masonry is because a hole of any real diameter can literally take hours to drill even with an above average hammer drill, by which time you will have long since lost all feeling in your hands and arms (such can actually cause nerve damage with extended exposure). By comparison, a rotary hammer drill will easily drill that same hole in mere seconds (if you do not set a depth stop you will be clean through the brick before you even realize it) and the vibration will not harm your hands and arms, nor cause undue fatigue.

    As an example, before I invested in a rotary hammer drill (they are not cheap, though you can rent one) I tried to drill a 3/4" hole in clay brick using the heaviest duty hammer drill (Bosch) and best quality carbide tipped masonry but I could get my hands on. Fifteen minutes later, I had long since lost all feeling in my hands and arms, burned out the drill's speed controller, and barely made a 3/16" divot, if that, in the brick. I then returned the failed hammer drill for a proper SDS-Plus (the smaller sibling) rotary hammer drill and a 1" bit and then successfully drilled that even larger hole through the very same brick in under five seconds from start to finish.

    That said, if this hole is no more than around 1/8", or thereabouts, then you can usually get away with using ordinary carbide tipped masonry bits and a drill coupled with a good deal of elbow grease and patience, but I would not want to have to drill more than a few such holes into hard brick (cement block, by comparison, is no problem as they are much softer). YMMV.

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    Re: Masonry bit

    Thanks for all the excellent info, and these are the Red Clay fired bricks, so I suspect I should see if a buddy has such a drill, rotary hammer type. Along these lines , assuming I get the hole drilled, would you all know what the standard height would be for a outside electric receptacle?

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    Re: Masonry bit

    If it was me I'd let the construction dictate how high the outlet is. Typucally they are going to be at the height where you can punch the hole into the crawl space wood band joist.

    Too high and you are into an interior wall where you are going to have do more work to do an acceptable patch on the interior wall.
    Too low and you are going to have to punch the hole not only through the brick but also through the cement/cinder block foundation that is behind the brick.

    If it was me I'd probably get one of those cheap Harbor Freight air chisels and chisel out the mortar joints around about half a brick and use the chisel to break enough of the brick out so you could mount the outlet box horizontally and recessed not the brick. I have done a lot of selective brick demolition with an air chisel and it goes pretty quick.
    Last edited by DaveD; 05-01-2017 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Spelling

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    Re: Masonry bit

    Further to this question, I have a friend with a Hammer drill, so that is good, now to attach the outdoor receptacle to Brick, will those
    Blue Masonry screws work, and do they cut their own Hole? Thanks again.

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    Re: Masonry bit

    The blue tapcon screws have to be predrilled at the correct diameter for the screw to enter the hole but still bite. They usually sell the proper size bit with the screws.

    They will work but you might consider using a piece of conduit and a connector on the end of that to secure the box. Add some silicone caulk around the conduit behind the box and it should be anchored securely. But I'm no electrician so take my advice for what it is, uninformed.
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    Re: Masonry bit

    The Tapcon package lists the proper drill bit size for the screw. The store should also have the correct bit in the same bay the Tapcons are. Some larger packages include the proper drill bit.

    For the 3/16 screw you would drill a 5/32 pilot hole, 3/16 for a 1/4" screw
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    Re: Masonry bit

    Rather than drill into the brick just drill into the mortar joints. It will be a lot easier. If the screws go into the mortar join about 1"" that should be sufficient.

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    Re: Masonry bit

    Quote Originally Posted by gesiak View Post
    The Tapcon package lists the proper drill bit size for the screw. The store should also have the correct bit in the same bay the Tapcons are. Some larger packages include the proper drill bit.

    For the 3/16 screw you would drill a 5/32 pilot hole, 3/16 for a 1/4" screw
    Tapcon screws fall into my "better than sliced bread" tool category, after you drill your holes be sure to either vacuum or blow the dust out of the hole or the screws will bind before being fully seated.
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    Re: Masonry bit

    Thanks for all the good advice, my buddy used his rotary hammer drill, at masonry joint, less than 3 minutes hole done, then the Tapco screws...all worked well.

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