Would you rather...? How to construct and trim a bench to match wainscotting

[Henry W]

I have a project and want to know how you would approach making it.

This is an L-shaped paint-grade bench, to be used inside and fixed in place, for use with a dining table - to be supported by three base 'boxes'. These boxes will form the base of the bench and be trimmed to match the wainscotting as shown in the pic.

So would you:

1. Build a 4 sided plywood box, and then apply the wainscotting (a base piece, 2 uprights, and a top piece for each side), and finally add in the 'base cap' moulding in the middle rectangle? That means each side has the primary plywood face, 4 trim pcs attached, and then 4 pcs of moulding.

Or
2. Use a full piece of plywood for the wainscotting, cut out the interior, and attach a backer to the hole, and apply the 'base cap' moulding in the middle rectangle?

Approach 2 would be many fewer pieces to cut fit and apply, and make for many seams. It does require straight cuts internally, not a task suited to a table saw like cutting the applied pieces would be.

I am leaning to the 2nd option. What would you do?

 

[chris_goris]

The second option would require you be able to cut the internal edges straight somehow.... easy with a CNC, not so easy with a jigsaw.....

 

[Henry W]

The second option would require you be able to cut the internal edges straight somehow.... easy with a CNC, not so easy with a jigsaw.....

Yes... I had considered that...
A CNC'd set of panels/frames might work nicely - I may need to find a local source.

 

[bob vaughan]

Hand router with a template guide.
tack down straightedges and fill the nail holes later.
Clean up the rounded inside corners with a rasp, chisel, or whatever.
Rough cut out the center with a hand held saber saw.

 

[Henry W]

Hand router with a template guide.
tack down straightedges and fill the nail holes later.
Clean up the rounded inside corners with a rasp, chisel, or whatever.
Rough cut out the center with a hand held saber saw.

So you'd go with option 2 Bob? I too was considering a router template.

 

[bob vaughan]

Option 2 would eliminate the joints but the joints may not be so bad. Two layers of 1/2" MDF. The top layer would be the surrounding boards glued and tacked on and then the moulding applied. It would eliminate fooling around with the round inside corners.

There's lots of ways to do that, depending on what machines you've got to work with.

 

[Henry W]

Option 2 would eliminate the joints but the joints may not be so bad. Two layers of 1/2" MDF. The top layer would be the surrounding boards glued and tacked on and then the moulding applied. It would eliminate fooling around with the round inside corners.

There's lots of ways to do that, depending on what machines you've got to work with.

Thanks Bob - still pondering

 

[golfdad]

option 1

 

[Skymaster]

#1 absolutely 3/4 ply back piece, 3/4 strips,trim inside with 5/8 moulding.

 

[Henry W]

#1 absolutely 3/4 ply back piece, 3/4 strips,trim inside with 5/8 moulding.

Hmmm I appreciate your certainty Jack - and know that I will never reach your level of experience (expertise!) in trim installation.
Can you help me understand why you say #1 absolutely?

 

[Skymaster]

First i piece solid backer, second rip the rails and stiles to your width, now you have completely solid backer to attach them to, third just trim the 3/4 high edge. everything aligns everything else, just so much easier and quicker. PS thanks i will do till a better one comes along LMAO. Trusting you have a tablesaw, this is a win win win. backing piece is square! It aligns everything else. Also you can rip all pcs into 8' pcs then just take the pile and x cut them

 

[Henry W]

First i piece solid backer, second rip the rails and stiles to your width, now you have completely solid backer to attach them to, third just trim the 3/4 high edge. everything aligns everything else, just so much easier and quicker. PS thanks i will do till a better one comes along LMAO. Trusting you have a tablesaw, this is a win win win. backing piece is square! It aligns everything else. Also you can rip all pcs into 8' pcs then just take the pile and x cut them

yes thanks Jack, understood. That does describe how I would approach #1. Yes to TS.
Further q's:
1. Would you use MDF or poplar or other? I do hate MDF
2. If you were to make 'boxes' with 2 or 3 sides that need to look like this, (base boxes for a bench - so only the visible sides need to be trimmed out) - how would you build the corners? Rip a miter or use a butt joint?

Thanks

 

[Skymaster]

NOOOOOOOOOOOO MDF LOL Since painted I wood just butt the joints and edge band the where the plys are visible. Since these are going to be mounted on the floor, I would pocket screw everything I could from underneath and glue.. IE "legs" go underneath the tops,pockets on legs, stringers between but under also, that should only need a few small pcs of iron on edgebanding. IF you dont mind a short road trip, c,mon down to my shop and we can do one,hell all and you can see what I am saying

 

[Henry W]

NOOOOOOOOOOOO MDF LOL Since painted I wood just butt the joints and edge band the where the plys are visible. Since these are going to be mounted on the floor, I would pocket screw everything I could from underneath and glue.. IE "legs" go underneath the tops,pockets on legs, stringers between but under also, that should only need a few small pcs of iron on edgebanding. IF you dont mind a short road trip, c,mon down to my shop and we can do one,hell all and you can see what I am saying

THANKS Jack! Good description.
So it seems that you agree with no MDF (at least I thought I read that between the lines - or was it in all caps?).

 

[Skymaster]