Hi John, and welcome to NCWW. There are many threads here on shop organization, but I'll share my approach to add to the pile since I have such a similar two-door, attached "woodshop" like yours. The space is 22'-4" deep by 21'-7" wide with an additional 6'-4" deep by 11'-3" wide additional niche out the back that also contains the water heater.
1. My original shop design concept was for everything to fold up and roll back into the niche to maintain two full car parking spaces. Although this rarely happens (okay, nearly never), it helped me to think about making each station efficient from the beginning. For example, my contractor table saw's rear outfeed table folds down to add only 1" additional clearance beyond the motor. And the large rolling cart I made to hold table saw blades, throat inserts, miter gauges, calipers, hold downs, etc., fits perfectly under the saw's fence side. Compact stations leaves more working and access space. Rolling stations make them portable and flexible. Using a modular design for all of them helps make storage locations inter-changable.
2. The second strategy I used was to shelve the walls. I am extremely blessed with a 12' high shop ceiling so I put shelves up most of these walls to hold regular household items as well as shop things. There is not much of a better feeling in the shop than to have the floors completely clear and free. I'm a big fan of plastic container boxes so I can organize anything loose, delicate, small, or fragile in stacked, labeled boxes and literally use a leaf blower to clean the place out occasionally in nice weather.
3. The third strategy I used to organize is to develop a scaled drawing of the space and use scaled 2D outlines of each actual tool and station to test various schemes. Although I do space planning for a living with fancy CAD and 3D modeling software tools, it is very easy for anyone to use graph paper to draw scaled drawings of their space and their tools. (I recommend 1/2" = 1'-0" because it is large enough to figure smaller details if you want. Using 4 divisions per inch graph paper, each square then equals 6".) Now here's the real trick: Draw the tool in solid lines AND the working area for material moving through it in dashed lines. For example, a table saw, if you intend to push a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood through the saw, draw that length and width on both infeed and outfeed sides of the blade because that's the real area the table saw needs. The tool can't occupy the same space as another tool, BUT multiple tools can all share working space.
4. My fourth strategy builds on the previous one. Once you realize how much actual space each tool needs, you might discover a logical flow as wood goes through your shop to both save space and avoid a lot of back and forth. For example, in my shop, I assume I am usually going start a project by buying rough cut, dried lumber in 10'-12' lengths. So I placed my miter/chop saw station on an 8' bench against one wall with an additional 4' of walk area at the garage door side. The wood literally comes in the door and can be cut down to storable/usable lengths. But even if I don't choose to cut it down when it gets home, the storage rack for this lumber is on the same wall, just beyond the miter saw. I can choose to cut or store, but all in the same aisle. Beneath the miter saw bench are four storage bays for rolling carts/stations. I keep my planer on one here so that the milling process can continue in the same aisle without swinging boards beyond.
5. A fifth strategy involves dust collection. A dedicated collector with duct work down the middle means the shortest lengths and the highest vacuum pressure. (Although it might get in the way with lower ceilings.) I may some day work up to a full size collector, but for now, I use a powerful portable machine moved around to each station on demand. It sits in the middle so it is relatively stationary to reach most of my machines, and oriented similarly to the way the duct work will one day be.
6. Finally, I like good lighting. It helps me to see and feel like I have more control over what I'm trying to do. My shop has windows along the 18' wide garage door facing east, a very high window on the south wall (6' sill) and a third high window on the west wall. They provide great natural sunlight whenever the sun is up. But I work a lot into the night and have put a 4-bulb florescent tube fixture in the niche and a square of four fixtures in the main area. One is actually a ceiling fan with four bright bulbs. I also put two bright bulbs in the garage door opener right in the middle. With finished drywall walls and ceiling, all painted white, the high space provides plenty of even light which is enjoyable to use for general woodworking as well as more refined tasks like sharpening and finishing.
So I guess I'd advise that more strategic planning and a scaled drawing helps organize priorities. A shop layout will be pretty different depending on the woodworker's interest in flat work, turning, carving, delicate work, finishing, etc., so you have to decide how focused you want to be and then try to plan the shop around the work, and not the other way around.
And of course, have fun!