Workbench project completed!!

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kooshball

David
Corporate Member
A few weeks ago I convinced myself that in order to make the drawers required for my dresser project that I first need a proper bench; so the research began. I bought Schwarz' latest book, asked a few questions here and came up with the following bench:

-All SYP construction from the BORG (~$70 worth)
-6'5" X 27" 3" TOP
-33.5" height
-4" x 4" legs
-Jorgensen 10" quick release vise for the front and a Peachtree quick vise for the end (thanks Eyecode)
-Veritas brass bench dogs and a surface clamp round out the accessories
-finished with BLO

The short top and bottom stretchers are m&t with draw bore pegs and the long stretcher is secured using two bed-bolts in each end for a total of 8 bolts (this WILL NOT rack).

I made the front of the top flush with the front of the legs and keyed it into place with a 3/8" dowel going down into the leg. I then cut a slot in the back of the top stretchers to place a lag bolt that would keep the top flat but allow for seasonal movement (see photo).

Total weight of this is ~250 lbs and I believe it may be strong enough for an elephant to use as a park bench.

Bench_32.JPG


Bench_13.JPG


Bench_24.JPG
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
Nicely done, when you start whacking away with a chisel and mallet on a project you will be thankful for the mass of the bench. :wsmile:
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Very nice bench, David!:icon_thum:icon_thum

That will outlast most of us and provide plenty of optimal work surface and enjoyment.

(Hope you don't have to move it too often.:wsmile:)

Thanks for sharing the pics with us. You have inspired a bunch of us, I am sure.

Wayne
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
A photo of that bench belongs in the dictionary under the phrase, 'heavy duty'. :icon_thum :icon_thum
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Very nice David. Looks familiar, although yours is a lot heavier than mine :) 27" wide sounds just about perfect. Super jobs on the vises too.
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Excellent bench, David! :eusa_danc Looks like it will serve you well for many, many years to come. Good choice on the vises.

Bill
 

eyekode

New User
Salem
Wow... that was fast! Can you point me to a link for the hardware you used on the long strechers?

Looks great by the way David.
Salem
 

kave

Kettrell
Corporate Member
Nice work! The Cave is gonna get a nice work bench like that soon! Sure would like your input and advice!!

Kave
 
T

toolferone

What kind of finish did you use and did you flatten the top?

Once again, I really like it.
 

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
Thanks for all the replies; let my try and address some of the questions:

Eyekode, I kind of cheated with the "bed bolts". I used these for the bed I built last year and loved them for that purpose but they are expensive and require more precision than I was willing to exercise for a bench:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=12
Lee Valley also has a version that will require the same amount of precision:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=31147&cat=1,41637

I ended up simply using 3/8" x 6" coarse threaded hex bolts for the "bed bolts" on my bench. They were very cheap and rather than having to precisely locate a hole (like with the Veritas option) or a mortise to hold the square nut (like with the Rockler option) I just cut a ~1.5" wide x .5" mortise on the hollow chisel mortise machine and was done in a matter of minutes. This allowed me to slip a wrench into the mortise to grab the nut while I use a ratchet on the bolt end to tighten things up. It was done in a fraction of the time that it took to do the true bed-bolts when I built my bed, so for "shop furniture" I recommend it (see photo). If you want to stop by for a closer look just let me know.
bolts.JPG


Toolferone, I used some leftover boiled linseed oil from last year's bed build for the finish and yes I did have to flatten the top but in stages. For the top I started with 2x8x14 SYP, cut them in half, then ripped them down the middle (using the HD Freud rip blade that you recommended; thanks!!). I face jointed (power jointer), then squared what would become the top, then ran the other "face" through the planer to get parallel sides for glue-up. I managed to glue 4 or 5 together at once (no biscuits, etc.) using the 4" x 4" legs as cauls. This yielded pieces that were ~5" - 6" wide and ~3.25" - 3.5" thick. These "new" pieces were then face jointed on what would become the top then squared up, then planned for parallel. I then glued two of these together to get a ~12"-13" wide piece (using biscuits this time to keep the tops dead flush), this went through the planer then the jointer (VERY HEAVY work at this point) to get square. I repeated this process to get another ~12"-13" chunk then
glued these two together (biscuits again). It was at this point that I changed by original plan to have a 24" wide top to a 27" top since I had a few ripped 2x8s left over and 24" just looked too narrow. So I glued these up, then glued this small extension to the 24" top (biscuits) and was left with a fairly flat top. The middle was slightly high (only 1/32 - 1/64 or so), so the hand plane work went very fast, but it was a great way to clean up the top.

If there are any other questions let me know.
 

bluedawg76

New User
Sam
Looks awesome! Seems like only yesterday when I was building mine, wait it was just a couple of months ago. :eek:ccasion1 I also went with the 27" b/c I thought 24" was a tad narrow and think this was a good choice. Enjoy!
 
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