Workbench- is this a bad idea?

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smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
I've been working with a plywood truss top bench and thinking about alternatives.
Looked at the Paul Sellers approach and the Naked Woodworker and the Newfangled workbench.
All have certain features that appeal to me.
Ill probably design something that draws on all, plus things I've seen here.

If I'm going to make a new bench I would like to have a solid top and be able to use hold downs.
That's where my questionable idea comes in.

I have the top of an old drafting table leaning against the wall in the shop.
Its approx 37 x 60 x 1.125 I'm guessing its maple.
If I were to rip it in half and stack / laminate the two pieces would that make sense?

Size seems workable but the thickness would be only 2 1/4"
seems a little skimpy.
I don't want to sacrifice that top if its not going to get me something worthwhile.

Thoughts?
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
What about laminating some 2x4's in between the two sections? That would add some depth and weight for stability.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Anything over 2" thick should be fine - if you want it closer to 3" (which I think is ideal - mines a tad too thick) then sandwich some 3/4" Plywood or MDF in between. Although MDF is soft, it is heavy and hold-downs will bite in the top and bottom maple layers and not even touch the MDF core. Just thinking out loud here.
 

TENdriver

New User
TENdriver
Smallboat, I think Ken's on to something with the sandwich idea.

Could you also just use use some S4S hard maple (instead of MDF) to make up a thicker top? It looks like we're talking 8 board feet of material which isn't much to get the thickness and use the other drafting top.

If if you do a sandwich, the edge joints probably won't need to be perfect.

Edit: Put some walnut or bubinga around the middle layer of the sandwich and you have a design element.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
Thanks Raymond for the sandwich idea and Ken and Ten for the follow up.
That makes sense to me, I wasn't sure how it would go with the hold downs.
I'm thinking I'll go the sheet goods route for labor savings.
the trim edge is a possibility, I don't have walnut but I do have cherry in sufficient quantity to highlight the edge.
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
Laminating two large solid wood panels to a middle layer that won't expand or contract is asking for trouble IMO. Instead you could attach a narrow board on the bottom under the dog holes to get the thickness you need, where you need it. Front edge band will clean up the appearance.

Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Assuming you'll have a bench 18 1/2 X 60 and 2 1/4" thick. A little short on the length and width, but doable.

I would suggest attaching a 4x4 apron with dog holes to the front (use a 1/2" thick spline).

Build a couple trestles out of 4x4's and two hefty stretchers of 2x8's, a face vise and end vise and you're in business!
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
Thanks Rick- I hear what you're saying.
What if the MDF core "floats" and the outer solid wood layers are fastened through it.
The bolts / screws passing through oversized holes or slots?

At some point the savings of going this route will be overtaken by the effort required to make it work.

DrBob - if the hold fast will work this might just be the answer.

Thanks all for helping the thought process along..
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
I don't use hold fasts but from what I understand they are forgiving and will work in benches 2-3" thick, so I don't think you need more thickness but if it turns out you do, adding a strip to the bottom is the simplest and avoids any movement issues. If you want a thicker top overall or more weight you could add 3/4 material between or underneath on both long edges. Siemsen's and Seller's workbenches both have large aprons that will hide anything underneath.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I'd just glue the three layers together. No problems there. Get some empty paint cans at lowes and a bag of sand. Fill the paint cans with sand and water - they will take the place of clamps to hold the three layers together during glueup. You'll have a 3" thick single unit once the glue dries. Titebond I will be plenty to hold this together forever. Take a triangle file to the edge of an old credit card to spread the glue around if you don't have a fancy silicone spreader or roller. It'll be fun dealing with that much glue. Wear an apron or old clothes.
 
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