Wood Overlay Garage Door

[waitup]

Hi all, had a question come up on our home build and figured you could share some wisdom. We are doing a new house and have a beautiful custom cypress front door. I want to make our garage door match the front door by doing an overlay with 1/2" thick cypress on the flush metal door. What would be the best way to attach the cypress to the door. I am looking for a finished product similar the the picture.

 

[Oka]

I am assuming you mean the man door the 3 x 7 door. Couple thing to remember- if the door frame is wood and the door stop is not integrated then you could pull the stop to attach. If the frame is steel or integrated (meaning the stop is moulded in) then you will have a exposed edge on the door face showing the original door face when open.
Either way, you end up adding about 50+ lbs to the doors so make sure your door hinges are not big box cheapos. To attach, I would use titebond 3 if it is a wood to wood or contact cement (3m brand type) if wood to metal. I would also kerf a "V" groove around the the edge on the wool to accomodate a polyurethane low modulus caulk line to really seal the edge from weather. The low modulus can expand and contract up to 400% which can prevent the edge from separationg and popping loose from cold and heat contraction/expansion.

 

[waitup]

Thanks for the reply. I was actually referring to the 16' x 8' car door though. I've got 32 pieces of 1/2" x 6" x 8' cypress that I had milled out of 8/4 cypress. I've used my router to chamfer the corners to replicate the v-grooves in our door. I'm just unsure of what the best way to attach the wood to the garage door panels is. I've attached a picture of our front door for reference.

 

[Oka]

Well another approach, you could use double stick tape to hold it on the sectional door and also use the polyurethane (Sika 15LM or equal). But your door weight will be more and would need additional springs or different springs because you would be adding 150 lbs to the door +/- So, you likely have a door that has 2-150 lb springs, now you would need 2-250-lb springs to accommodate. Whatever you use as an adhesive, you will need a squishy soft set (Low Modulus). The Sika is just one of the market standards, but there are others.

FYI Cypress = 32lbs per cu.ft. of weight converted to bd ft 12 bd-feet = 32 lbs÷2 =16lbs per 1/2" thick cypress. 12 sq ft of 1/2 " = 16/12 1.33 per sq ft x 112 (door sq ft) = about 150 lbs added wood wight + the caulking/glue etc. probably another 10-15 lbs of misc weight. Just keep the weight factor in mind.

 

[waitup]

Thanks again for the detailed replies. I'll look into that adhesive. I've spoken to the garage door provider several times about this and he is going to bring the appropriately sized springs at install. I weighed the wood, and it's 169 lbs, so I'll probably tell him 180-185 total additional weight. Would I have to clamp each panel with that adhesive, and would it work with finished wood? I was thinking I would spray a finish on the pieces before installing them.

 

[chris_goris]

Do you have to use a steel door? 16 feet of cypress butted together will expand and contract quite a bit with humidity conditions , let alone temperature changes.

 

[waitup]

I have to use a steel door at this point. I had also wondered about some kind of mechanical fastener, but I think the wood is too thin. Maybe space the boards a 16th or so? They have been in the garage without a door for over a month, so pretty well acclimated now.

 

[Phil S]

I would mechanically attach the boards with machine screws and lock nuts. And then add cyprus plugs.
The center board should be attached tight and all other boards should allow for some movement. Or you could leave a gap between boards and attach all tight - the door should be painted black where the gaps are

 

[Skymaster]

Is your door insulated yet? If knot then I would attach from inside, oversize holes,fender washers, TREAT EVERY SIDE,EDGE,END WITH BEST EXTERIOR SEALER YOU CAN AFFORD. MULTIPLE COATS UV PROTECTION IS A MANDATORY MUST

 

[waitup]

I would mechanically attach the boards with machine screws and lock nuts. And then add cyprus plugs.

Definitely thought about this method

Is your door insulated yet? If knot then I would attach from inside, oversize holes,fender washers,

This was my original plan, but I think I'll have to pre-drill all of the holes to keep from splitting the wood. Thought about combining this with some adhesive as well.

 

[Skymaster]

very flexible adhesive, cypress is going to move.NOTE tongue DOWN. IF POSSIBLE I wood make temporary plywood doors so you can lock the building, SETUP everything inside, this way you can do all the layout and fussy fitting without rushing, LAYOUT is your most critical and important part. REMEMBER to use the SAME pc of wood all the way across the door so you have GRAIN matching. Also slightly backcut all cuts Dont butt tight leave 3/32 gap between sections. PREFINISH ALL PCS ON EVERY BIT OF ALL surfaces

 

[jlwest]

That is going to be a heavy door.

 

[JohnnyR]

Given how heavy it is, might want to rig up a block and tackle to raise the door when the power's out as it would be hard to do with a car in the way. I'd use a ship lap joint with an unseen gap to "join", no glue needed if mechanically fastened.

 

[waitup]

Given how heavy it is, might want to rig up a block and tackle to raise the door when the power's out as it would be hard to do with a car in the way. I'd use a ship lap joint with an unseen gap to "join", no glue needed if mechanically fastened.

As long as the spring is sized properly, it won't take any more effort to raise than a regular door.

 

[waitup]

I would mechanically attach the boards with machine screws and lock nuts. And then add cyprus plugs.
The center board should be attached tight and all other boards should allow for some movement. Or you could leave a gap between boards and attach all tight - the door should be painted black where the gaps are

I really like the look of the boards being tight. How about a back bevel?

 

[JohnnyR]

As long as the spring is sized properly, it won't take any more effort to raise than a regular door.

duh, senior moment Always trying to make things harder than they need to be.

 

[waitup]

Sikkens is on the way and garage door is supposed to be installed today. Hopefully get some wood installed this weekend!