Wincester Plane Replacement Blades

Gunnage

New User
Greg
How did you go about making the adjustment knob longer? The if I take out the adjustment knob and move the blade w/ my hands it has room to move before the screw which connects the cap iron to the blade bottoms out. There is more threaded rod coming through the knob, and if there was a way to extend the possible travel of that knob I think it would work. I couldn't figure out a good way to adjust that without buggering the threads.

-Greg
 

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
The finger that controls the iron depth can only rotate so far before things get bound up
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
How did you go about making the adjustment knob longer? The if I take out the adjustment knob and move the blade w/ my hands it has room to move before the screw which connects the cap iron to the blade bottoms out. There is more threaded rod coming through the knob, and if there was a way to extend the possible travel of that knob I think it would work. I couldn't figure out a good way to adjust that without buggering the threads.

-Greg

I don't understand your question if it was directed to me.

I did not make any changes to the plane or its parts. In the instance I described, the only change needed was a different cap iron/chip breaker.
 

Gunnage

New User
Greg
I think what I am asking is: Is it possible to move the brass knob forward or back on the threaded rod?
IMG_0294.jpg


As I look at the threaded rod on the plane in the pictures, there is less sticking out the back (towards the handle side) than mine. It would see that it should be possible, but I couldn't figure out a good way without buggering the threads.

As I look it wouldn't need to be much longer to let it extend out of the mouth. The yoke moves very freely a good ways if I take the adjustment knob out. Thank you all again for your help!

IMG_0295.jpg
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Perhaps this helps... perhaps not.

20200320_232338.jpg


These three 409 caps are different styles and ages but all measure the same.

20200320_235637.jpg


Seems like they match the OP's measurements.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Are you saying that the adjuster nut (you called it a knob) is seized to the threaded rod?

The threaded rod in your picture should stay screwed into the frog and the brass adjuster nut should spin freely back and forth on the threaded rod. If the threaded rod moves when you turn the adjuster nut, that is the problem.
 

Gunnage

New User
Greg
Oh! That must be it then. The adjuster nut is definitely seized on the threaded rod. When I turn the nut eventually the entire assembly (adjustment nut + threaded rod) come out of the frog. The picture of the plane in my previous post is right before they come out.

Anyone have tips on how to free the nut without killing the threads?

-Greg
 

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
if this comes out of the frog, find a couple of nuts that match the threads and lock them together on the open end. Use a wrench to hold these and then attempt to unscrew the adjuster nut.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Or... If you have a bench vice with wooden jaws just stick the threads in there and tighten. I've had to do a couple like that and it works just fine. Just gently work the knob back and forth. I usually spray a little PB Blaster and let it sit for a while first.
 

Gunnage

New User
Greg
Progress! I have the adjustment nut free! I can't thank you guys enough! I didn't know the nut was supposed to spin freely.

Last question...maybe: Is there anything you put on the side of the threaded rod that goes into the frog that keeps if from turning? Teflon tape or Loctite blue maybe?

The adjustment nut turns freely, but when there is pressure on it from the yoke, the rod spins as well. I'm surprised the nut and rod don't have opposing threads.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Progress! I have the adjustment nut free! I can't thank you guys enough! I didn't know the nut was supposed to spin freely.

Last question...maybe: Is there anything you put on the side of the threaded rod that goes into the frog that keeps if from turning? Teflon tape or Loctite blue maybe?

The adjustment nut turns freely, but when there is pressure on it from the yoke, the rod spins as well. I'm surprised the nut and rod don't have opposing threads.
You shouldn't need anything on the threaded rod to hold in the frog. The nut should spin freely on the rod so it should not loosen up during normal use.
When ever I am re-installing the threaded rod I wrap the threads with a small piece of aluminum flashing or something similar to protect the threads then tighten it into the frog with pliers. The flashing protects the threads from the plyers and gives a good grip so you can get the threaded rod screwed in nice a tight.

While you have the threaded rod out make sure you clean any schmutz off of the threads. With a drop of oil on the threads you should be able to give the nut a good spin and get it travel the full distance of the rod.
 

McRabbet

Rob
Corporate Member
If you put anything on the adjuster stud where it goes into the frog, you can use the Red version of Locktite and it will hold well, but is still removable. Do not use the Blue locktite because it is basically a permanent bond. BTW, I have never needed Locktite on any of my planes.
 

Gunnage

New User
Greg
I put just a bit of teflon tape on the end which gave it some resistance. I was able to get some nice shavings! Thank you guys for all your help!

My last question is about the lateral adjuster, do you guys have any tips/tricks for stiffening that up? I feel like I adjust it to be square, but it seems like it gets knocked moved easily to not take even shavings.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
You can tighten up the lateral lever a bit by very carefully peening the rivet that holds it in place. Be very careful and make sure to fully support the back side of the rivet and the frog. You can pretty easily crack the frog if you are not extremely careful.

That being said, the lateral lever should be somewhat loose. If the cutting iron is moving too easily due to a tap or bump, maybe try tightening up the lever cap screw an 1/8 turn at a time. You want to be able to adjust the iron, but still have it tight enough to hold position once you have it set.
 

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