What about tempered hardboard for shop floors

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts about using tempered hardboard as shop flooring

It would be going over 3/4 plywood that is currently painted

I figured I could pre drill and countersink and screw down the edges and then if I needed to change it just replace the panel

I was going it lay it 90 degree to the way the plywood is down and this would also help insulating the floor some for the winter

thoughts

 

[mark2]

my first thought would be what happen if it gets wet - will it swell like MDF?

 

[scsmith42]

I would be concerned about it being very slick when covered with shavings or sawdust too.

 

[ehpoole]

I agree with both of the above points -- Masonite does not like moisture and is quite a slick surface if placed tempered side up. Masonite also scuffs pretty easily with any sharp or heavy object that gets dragged across it.

An obvious question, the answer to which may garner you some suitable alternatives, would be: given that you already have a plywood floor, why would one wish to cover it with Masonite?

 

[Jeff]

Go to FWW and search "shop flooring" by Anatole Burkin. There are a number of options if you're compelled to cover the painted plywood.

Another option would be anti-fatigue mats placed in strategic locations. Again FWW: "Treat Your Feet" by Steve Scott. Lots of options there too.

 

[petebucy4638]

Tempered hardboard is a bad choice for flooring. It's slippery, it does not wear well, and it does not tolerate moisture well. If you have a sound plywood floor, I'd either paint it with a non-skid paint or install a more shop-friendly flooring. Just about anything would serve you better than tempered hardboard.

Loses sells a product called 'Restore' that they target at the deck market. I have never used it, but it looks like it is a good non-skid surface. It is so rough that it reminds me of a masonry product. I am thinking of trying it on the stairs leading up to my deck, just to see how well it works. It might be a viable surface finish for your existing plywood floor.

 

[SteveHall]

Ironically, a lot of "wood" flooring these days is hardboard with a very thin film of veneer on it plus a hard film finish. Cut to planks and sealed, this seems to resolve most issues (expansion, swelling, slipperyness, fitting).

There's probably no savings if you cut hardboard into strips and seal, even less if you route each with mating lock rabbets! But that might be a good approach if you don't mind the labor.

 

[FlyingRon]

One of the oddest wood floors I've seen is the workroom at Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesen (east). They used strips of plywood laid "end grain" up. Finished with many coats of Mr. Johnson's wax.

 

[gazzer]

I laid a floating floor (over insulating foam pad) of 3/4" MDF in the "clean" room off of my main shop work area. I routed lap joints at the edges and glued with epoxy. Finished with a few coats of oil-based porch paint. It has held up fine for over five years and feels great on the feet. It does dent somewhat easily when I drop something heavy on it but it is easy to repair. The area is dry and water leaks are not probable so that's not an issue. I would not recommend it for an area with machinery, especially if on mobile bases - it would groove pretty easily. I think the same thing would happen with hardboard, but being thinner it would probably peel up fairly quickly.

If you are set on plywood as a substrate, why not double it up and paint it.

Good luck

-G

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

If you are set on plywood as a substrate, why not double it up and paint it.

Good luck

-G

I had thought about doubling the plywood and I had a cut off half of sheet of hardboard that was laying on the floor and that I why I started wondering about it cause it seemed hard enough and it is cheap enough

I was trying to keep the $$$$ out put at a minimum

I would like to get http://www.garageflooringinc.com/rolls/coin-nitro-rolls.html but again I was trying to be thrifty

 

[merrill77]

I was trying to keep the $$$$ out put at a minimum

What about OSB? I used OVRX floor tiles in my recent shop upgrade. OVRX tiles are made from OSB bonded to a rigid foam insulation sheet. Feels good on the feet. I haven't rolled any machinery over it, but I've been in at least one shop that does and it's fine.