Watco wipe on poly

[Keye]

In 1969 after my service in the military service I started college. Money was tight so I started looking for used furniture. I was given a formula for what is really home made wipe on poly. I used it for years. I then accidentally found Minwax wipe on poly used it for many years with great success. Went to HD to buy some and found out they do not sale it anymore. Found Watco wipe on poly and figured it would be as good as Minwax, wrong.

I am finishing a large oak table top damaged by a chemical spill. It needed to be sanded down to bare wood. First go round with Watco I used a cloth. It looked like crap. Sanded it back down and used china bristle brush. It looked like crap. Sanded it down again. Next I used a foam brush. It looks like crap.

Why did I not just use Minwax? Did not want to wait on estimated shipping date. Now that I have used it I am to stubborn to give up.

I really think the Watco is to thick. What can I thin it with?

 

[dancam]

+1 on Minwax wipe-on poly (Satin). I've not used Wataco wipe-on poly but have used their oil finishes with good results. You could probably thin with mineral spirits or paint thinner. You may want to try contacting Watco to see if you're applying right and see if they have any suggestions. You should have the can ready to read off any date identifier to see if it has passed its shelf life.

 

[Echd]

I always just mix poly with mineral spirits for DIY wipe on, 50 50 or even thinner. I don't know if it's better or worse, but it's what I do.

On a hot summer day you can do coats fast...

 

[drw]

Keye, agree with your assessment of Watco's wipe-on-poly...I tried it several years ago, it took much too long to cure and looked cloudy when it finally dried. Minwax is my brand of choice for wipe-on-poly. Like Dan, I too have used Watco oil finishes with good results.

 

[Graywolf]

I’ve used several of the Watco oil products but not the poly product. However I would just thin it with either mineral spirits or naphtha. I would start with about 2 parts poly to 1 part solvent try a sample and then see how it feels and looks. I’ll be honest I have never tried any new finish without testing it on a sample first. It prevents a lot of frustration.

 

[wsrhue]

I've switched to hardwax oils now, but my go to finish has always been Minwax satin poly mixed equal parts with watco danish oil. If you want to thin the watco wipe on poly, I would use watco danish oil.

 

[jlwest]

I think Lowes sells Minwax products.

 

[tvrgeek]

Wipe on poly is just poly thinned down a bunch. Nothing special so you can make your own cheaper. I do like Watco products.

Read the lables on "Danish oil", Tung oil", and others. You may find they are not very special compared to just plain old BLO with a little poly added.

 

[Keye]

I think Lowes sells Minwax products.

There web site says they do but the four I keep checking with never have any in stock.

 

[jlwest]

There web site says they do but the four I keep checking with never have any in stock.

They will ship for free to the store.

 

[Keye]

Wipe on poly is just poly thinned down a bunch. Nothing special so you can make your own cheaper. I do like Watco products.

Read the lables on "Danish oil", Tung oil", and others. You may find they are not very special compared to just plain old BLO with a little poly added.

As I said in my post I use to make my own. I used BLO, poly and mineral spirits. Do not use enough now to make it worth my while.

 

[JNCarr]

I have tried Watco poly and dont like it - it does not apply well for me. I wipe-on Minwax diluted about 20% with mineral spirits unless the surface area is large, then 30% to be sure to maintain a wet edge. After the first coat you can go down to 10-15% dilution. If you want the grain to show its best, use 2-3 coats of gloss with a final coat of satin. If you want to moderate the appearance of the grain, use all satin.

 

[HITCH-]

As I said in my post I use to make my own. I used BLO, poly and mineral spirits. Do not use enough now to make it worth my while.

I think that you just described the recipe for Tru Oil gun stock finish.

 

[Wilsoncb]

In 1969 after my service in the military service I started college. Money was tight so I started looking for used furniture. I was given a formula for what is really home made wipe on poly. I used it for years.

What was your formula? I've recently used the 3-2-1 and it works fine, but I've questioned if it's a really good finish for long term durability.
3 parts paint thinner or mineral spirits
2 parts polyurethane
1 part boiled linseed oil

 

[christcrosscrafts]

For general furniture, the wipe-on stuff will work fine (regardless of brand). Mixing/blending it with other products (oils) will give you varied results depending on what you "blend" it with. For your specific table application, I'd use something more durable and designed for heavy use, heat, water, etc. I have had great success with General Finishes products. Their Arm-R-Seal is amazing if you want to stick with an "oil-based" finish. It makes the grain pop and offers great protection. Their newer High Performance is ideal for your table if you wanted something clear and water-based.

Either way, if durability is what is needed, the wipe-on stuff won't offer protection against daily use these will.

 

[MikeZ]

The Mohawk Pour-N-Wipe is priced slightly higher (Than two pints of Minwax) but well worth it. I've used it for two decades and haven't had to mix or dilute it for amazing results. Pour-N-Wipe Finish Quart Satin #notsponsored

 

[Hmerkle]

The Mohawk Pour-N-Wipe is priced slightly higher (Than two pints of Minwax) but well worth it. I've used it for two decades and haven't had to mix or dilute it for amazing results. Pour-N-Wipe Finish Quart Satin #notsponsored

@MikeZ is the Mohawk Pour-N-Wipe a poly product (like the Minwax wipe-on poly) or is it similar to a wipe-on oil?
I guess the real question is the protection - is it more like a poly or an oil finish?

 

[MikeZ]

@MikeZ is the Mohawk Pour-N-Wipe a poly product (like the Minwax wipe-on poly) or is it similar to a wipe-on oil?
I guess the real question is the protection - is it more like a poly or an oil finish?

@Hmerkle One thing I do like about Mohawk is that they don't buy into the marketing terms like big brands. With that said, Pour-N-Wipe is an oil-based poly style of finish. It works so well that I started using it because I needed to protect the edge banding application on pre-finished plywood. You can't use an oil or cheaper brand product because it will be amber/yellow much more than the UV finish on that type of plywood. The Pour-N-Wipe was the answer. Not a gel but not a runny oil either. It's right in the middle viscosity, which is great for vertical applications where you can't have runs, and provides excellent protection like the weak edges on plywood.

 

[Hmerkle]

@Hmerkle One thing I do like about Mohawk is that they don't buy into the marketing terms like big brands. With that said, Pour-N-Wipe is an oil-based poly style of finish. It works so well that I started using it because I needed to protect the edge banding application on pre-finished plywood. You can't use an oil or cheaper brand product because it will be amber/yellow much more than the UV finish on that type of plywood. The Pour-N-Wipe was the answer. Not a gel but not a runny oil either. It's right in the middle viscosity, which is great for vertical applications where you can't have runs, and provides excellent protection like the weak edges on plywood.

Thanks Mike - that is helpful, need to pick some up on my next KWS visit!

 

[MikeZ]

Thanks Mike - that is helpful, need to pick some up on my next KWS visit!

Absolutely. I personally back this product, regardless of where I work, so if you have questions or concerns, reach out. I'll be happy to help.