Twisted inset doors -FIXED

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DaveO

New User
DaveO
I just mounted the doors in the lower cab of my kitchen hutch. They have a slight twist to them, about a 1/8". They are inset, flat panel doors with two panels per door. Other than remaking them, which I have already done once :BangHead: :BangHead: any suggestions as how to either take out the twist or hide it when they are closed. I am thinking of some sort of rare earth magnet system to pull the proud edges in flush :dontknow: The only stop they currently have is the shelf in the cabinet, I sized it so the doors would hit it when closed and be flush.
TIA, Dave:)
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Re: Twisted inset doors

Nobody :crybaby2::crybaby2::crybaby2::crybaby2:

Dave (shameless bump):)
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Re: Twisted inset doors

Dave no pic so you must be dreaming this up!!

Weren't these were ply panels? I've had luck taking twist out of a ply panel door by setting it directly on concrete and putting weight on it overnight.
BTW, I also remember a raised panel that it didn't work.
 

michaelgarner

New User
Michael
Re: Twisted inset doors

pull out a trusty smother and plane the outside flush, Just make sure your transition is not to harsh, they will be lower doors so people will not notice/inspect them as much as doors that are eye level. But if you do go with the magnets keep us posted, it sounds like an interesting fix.
 

Monty

New User
Monty
Re: Twisted inset doors

I would think the best thing to do would be to give them a little time without any stress on them to make sure they're finished moving, then hand plane down the "high" corners on one side to make them as flat as you can reasonably do. Then run them through a drum sander (or planer if they'll fit) to get the other side flat. Once you get the other side flat, flip it over and run the hand-planed side through once to clean it up if you need to. The doors will be a little thinner (no big deal), but they'll be flat. Of course this is assuming you don't have to remove much or that removing some material from one corner won't ruin a molded profile. If you have that problem, then I think I'd just try weights...
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
Re: Twisted inset doors

Lets try this again- wife distracted me and I closed the browser instead of a window. Was just about done and lost everything- argggg!!!!

Dave, as you know, I have a lot of flush inset doors on my shop cabinets.

Backbench-57.JPG


I had some problems with misaligned doors also. Some were the result of doors that were actually warped, some that were the result of poor hinge mortises. First determine the problem. If needed, redo your hinges- mortised hinges can be remounted- fill the screw holes with glue and tooth picks then redrill.

If the problem is warped doors or possibly doors assembled with mis-cut mating surfaces which also look like they are warped, there are two things you can do if the warping isn't too bad.

First, you can clamp the door in a jig that forces it flat, actually you want it to overcorrect past flat to allow for spring-back. If the door is unfinished you can dampen it slightly. Leave it clamped for a few days. I have had only limited success with this techinque in the past.

You can also use a combination of catches and stops. Obviously hefty ball catches or other type of catch should work, but since your warping may be in different corners you may have to have a catch(es) in different/multiple places. You will also need stop(s)- if you pull the door corner that is proud of the face frame back, it may cause another corner to be recessed.

I did two things when I built my last set (best set) of shop cabinets to help with these problems. First, I built the cabinet box with the bottom shelf proud of the top edge of the lower rail by about 1/4"- to act as a full width stop at the bottom of the door (first pic) (I thought about doing something similar at the top). Secondly, I used rare earth magnets inset opposite each other in the edges of the top rail and door, as catches- I don't like catches that intrude on the cabinet opening (second pic).

SinkUpper-5.jpg


SinkUpper-6.jpg


I used the 1/4" X 1/4" round "Rod" (B. in pic) rare earth magnets from Lee Valley and they worked great. For bad warping you might need a magnet in another location or use a larger one like the 1/2" long X 1/4" rods (C. in pic). I drilled a 1/4" hole and just glued them in place with super glue.

99k38xxs2.jpg


I really like the lood of flush inset doors vs overlay, but now you know why most cabinet shops use overlay doors and Euro-style hinges. :-D:-D:-D
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Well, I tried my rare earth magnet idea, very similar to what Alan in Little Washington did, but I didn't have the foresight to include the integral stops like he did. One day I will be as smart :eusa_pray I created my own stops that attached behind the face frame and housed the magnets.

Kitchen_hutch_007.jpg


And the results are darn near perfect fitting inset doors.

Kitchen_hutch_010.jpg


Kitchen_hutch_008.jpg


Now to cut the crown molding and haul the piece up to the kitchen...the wife can load it any way she wants.
Hopefully finished pics to come tomorrow :eusa_danc :eusa_danc

Dave:)
 
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jerrye

New User
Jerry
Rare earth magnets: not just fun but the woodworker's friend! Good job Dave, and good recovery.:icon_thum
 

sawman

New User
Albert
Great recovery Dave, you may want to leave the crown moulding off until you get upstairs, it looks heavy enough as it is. Alan that is great idea using those magnets, I will file that one away.

Later,
Albert, Al or whatever
 

NZAPP1

New User
Nick
Great work Dave also nice recovery on the doors :icon_thum Great looking fit and finish also :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
All's well that ends well!

Pretty slick recovery IMHO. The solution is actually a very good design detail! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Chuck
 
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