TS Dust Collection Improvement Tip

[Glennbear]

Just a tip that has worked for me. I have a Ridgid hybrid tablesaw with the dust collection connection at the bottom of the cabinet. The cabinet as shipped from the factory had a lot of air leaks which I sealed with gaffer's tape to improve dust extraction but that still left the large cut out at the top of the plastic bump out that allows the motor/arbor to swing for bevel cuts. I covered the space with flexible rubber roof membrane which reduces air intrusion and still allows for motor swing. The membrane is basically the same material as a car/truck inner tube so a piece of that could be subsituted if you do not have a source for the membrane. :wsmile:

 

[MarkE]

How did you attach the rubber to the plastic?

My Grizzly 1023 has a metal motor cover with vent slots. I had thought about covering them up so that the air flow would come from above, through the blade insert. I wonder if that would have a negative affect on air flow needed by the motor.

 

[Glennbear]

How did you attach the rubber to the plastic?

My Grizzly 1023 has a metal motor cover with vent slots. I had thought about covering them up so that the air flow would come from above, through the blade insert. I wonder if that would have a negative affect on air flow needed by the motor.

I used gaffer's tape which is a black tape similar to duct tape. It is used extensively in the entertainment industry on movie sets and on stage. It adheres well, is fairly flexible, and has a matte black finish. I am not familiar with the Grizzly saw but since a manufacturer will not add a production step that is not needed for proper operation to keep down costs then I would guess that the slots are needed for proper ventilation. :wsmile:

 

[zapdafish]

I mentioned taping up gaps in my saw before and it was brought to my attention that sealing it up too tight is not good for the dust collector. It needs to be able to move a certain amount of air.

 

[MarkE]

Air flow is needed. It would be nice if you could properly direct the air flow where you want/need it.

My Grizzly saw had a 4" port that I opened up to 6". The bottom plate is angled down towards the dust extraction port, but it is just screwed to the cabinet. There are gaps all along the edges. It didn't seem like airflow coming up from underneath the saw was going to help with dust removal, so I taped up all around the bottom plate to seal those gaps. With the original 4" port and the gaps around the base plate, the bottom of the saw would collect about 3-5" of dust/chips that I would have to manually push into the DC pipe. Now with the 6" port and with those gaps taped up, most of the dust that goes into the cabinet gets sucked out. I can also see some of the dust on top of the table getting sucked down into the cabinet through some holes I drilled in the ZCI.

I had thought that sealing up some more of the other 'leaks' using Glenn's idea might make the dust extraction a little more efficient. I just don't want to do that if it means the motor won't be getting the airflow it needs to keep cool.

 

[Martin Roper]

I bought a sheet of that magnetized plastic stuff they make fridge ads, calendars and decorations out of. I cut it to the shape of the various openings in my TS. It's easily removed and doesn't mar the finish. We also use it around the house to seal heat registers in rooms where we don't want all the registers going at once. Handy stuff.

 

[headingnorth]

My saw has an open frame. I sealed up the bottom with a board and a 4" port. Then I used roofing tar-paper for the back side. The tar paper allowed some flexibility for when I tilted the blade.

 

[Cato]

Glenn, I have the same saw as you do and I sealed the gap around my tilt adjustment with masking tape that is easily moved when I bevel, but left the large airflow gap above the cabinet cover.

I figured that one was for the DC to be able to draw enough air to move the dust out.

About once a month I still have to brush all the sawdust off the corners and the inside of the hinged cover and into the chute as well as vacuum the insides.

Maybe may DC is not strong enough, or maybe that is normal maintenance for a TS. My DC is a Penn State 1250CFM.

 

[Glennbear]

Glenn, I have the same saw as you do and I sealed the gap around my tilt adjustment with masking tape that is easily moved when I bevel, but left the large airflow gap above the cabinet cover.

I figured that one was for the DC to be able to draw enough air to move the dust out.

About once a month I still have to brush all the sawdust off the corners and the inside of the hinged cover and into the chute as well as vacuum the insides.

Maybe may DC is not strong enough, or maybe that is normal maintenance for a TS. My DC is a Penn State 1250CFM.

My rationale for sealing as I did was to improve suction at the blade insert which it has. I still get an accumulation like you mentioned in the nooks and crannies but I periodically take out the blade insert and blast the inside of the cabinet with an air gun while the DC is running and that cleans things up. :wsmile: