Topcoating dye or stain...

[pslamp32]

OK, I've read every book and asked a million questions and I still can't find a method that doesn't lift stain or dye when I topcoat. I've started using transtint dyes and I love them but I still lift spots when trying to top with just about everything. Had the same problem with stain as well. I've tried shellac, brush on lacquer, poly, pretty much everything and the same problem. I thought shellac was supposed to be a blocker to help this problem but when I put shellac on, it does it as well. I don't spray so maybe that is the issue. Actually, I tried to spray some shellac on my last project with one of the Rockler turbine HVLP sprayers and the air pressure was so strong that it practically removed all the dye.

I just started experimenting with stains and it is frustrating me to no end. Everything looks great til it's time to clearcoat. I've tried water-based poly and oil-based, no luck. The brush-on lacquer seems to work the best but it ain't great either. What am i doing wrong? Thanks.

 

[Makinsawdust]

First off let me say that staining wood is a pain and should not be done unless absolutely required. There's much to be said about picking a wood that's already the color you want.
Lots of things going on here. How deep are the colors your trying to stain to? Are you wiping off the excess stain? How much time are you letting the stained project sit before top coating?
You already know that spraying it is the answer. Sounds like you just need to turn the air down on the gun. I've become a fan of spraying tinted poly or lacquer instead of traditional staining. All it takes is a few drops of transtint mixed in the poly and start spraying.
Rob

 

[Gofor]

For the stain/dye to lift off the wood, it is not penetrating/adhering to the surface. It sounds to me like you may have a contaminant problem. It could be dried glue residue (even wiped with a wet rag it will form a sealing coat that may be stopping the stain penetration. If using oil base, wiping it with a rag damp with mineral spirits first will usually highlight any glue spots. If water based, use a water dampened rag) Other than that, silicone would be next guess. Oil from air-tool exhaust would be another. If you use hand lotion/moisturizer and are handling the wood with your bare hands, that could also be player, especially after it is sanded/scraped in prep for coating. It may be getting on the wood directly or could be transferring from your rags or sander. If the rags were ever used for applying endust, etc or any of the auto cleaners/waxes, toss 'em. If a car is close by, it could be from the exhaust, or from the cleaning/detailing products used on it (especially spray bottle plastic treatments or leather upholstery cleaners/preservatives). If you have a bug service (ie Orkin, etc) the bug spray may be getting onto the wood when they treat.
I work out of my 2 car "shop" (the cars never get inside!!) However, when cleaning them I make sure the door is closed. When I get to the sand/prep stage, I wear latex or nitrile gloves unless it is really warm. Then I wear cheap cotton gloves as the sweat will run out of the rubber type and drip (actually pour) onto the work.
And then you may have a cat (or mouse) problem like DaveO!!
I guess I should have asked if it is large areas or speckles? Also, what type of wood are you having the problem with?
If contamination is the problem, you will get fisheyes and voids if you spray.
Just some ideas in the hope this helps.

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