Top assembly for chest of drawers

[lwhughes149]

I have two 10" wide boards that I can join together to get an 18" top, something tells me that I would be better off making the boards into four boards while the lazy side of me says two boards joined would be just fine. Opinions welcomed. Board is about 1" thick if that matters. Lorraine

 

[DavidF]

I have two 10" wide boards that I can join together to get an 18" top, something tells me that I would be better off making the boards into four boards while the lazy side of me says two boards joined would be just fine. Opinions welcomed. Board is about 1" thick if that matters. Lorraine

It all depends on whether you need to run them through the planer afterwards or more likely, over the jointer first. And therefore the max width is determined by the equipment you have. In my case I always need to make a glued up panel out of boards less than 6" each so that I can face plane each board first. If no power tools are involved then you may get a better grain match going with two boards.

 

[lwhughes149]

David, thank you. Both boards are flat, have been through the planer just need to go through the jointer for glue up. I am not use to finding boards that are flat, first time for everything I guess. Thanks again, Lorraine

 

[Hardcharger14]

Finish the back side of the top. Cupping, in wide boards, is the only problem I see. Steve Mc

 

[lwhughes149]

Well, the top is on and if I must say so it looks good. My husband was pleased. I will post pics as soon as it comes into the house. This project was a chest my late brother and I started about three years ago. It was my introduction to woodworking so you know it is very special to me. It is a four drawer red oak chest of drawers. I plan to add a cabinet to the top with shelves and two drawers. I want to use it for a china cabinet in my dining room. What do you mean when you say finish the back. I am allowing for movement. Lorraine

 

[Travis Porter]

Finish the under side of it is what he means. It is a good practice to finish the inside of furniture you make to help keep moisture content equalized on both sides. Helps prevent warping.

 

[lwhughes149]

thanks for that tip, I didn't know that. I will finish it today. Does that mean to also apply poly to the inside? Lorraine

 

[Travis Porter]

I always have, but after reading the link DaveO posted I am reconsidering that logic.

FWIW, I have gotten to where I don't like poly on the inside due to the lingering smell. I personally have switched to shellac on the inside.

 

[Gofor]

Lorraine:
LOML and I have a pecan bedroom suite (dresser, chest of drawers and 2 "commodes" ie bedside table/drawer units) made of solid pecan we bought in 1976. It was and is not finished on the inside. It survived 3 years in non-climatic controlled storage in Louisiana while we were overseas, many years in non-central A/C houses where the bedrooms were not heated or air conditioned, and shipping in furniture trucks from LA to CA to FL to NC (and yes all the movers cussed us because of the weight). It still has the original finish and the only problems I have is just this past year, I have noticed the glue giving up on one of the "commodes".
I would not put poly inside because of the odor which will take quite a while to dissipate (about six months judging by some end tables I made for our living room).
If you do want to seal the wood or drawer interiors, i would suggest rattle-can lacquer spray or shellac, and give them a week or so to air out.

JMTCW

Go

 

[lwhughes149]

I put stain on the underside of the top and nothing more. It came into the house last night and looks very nice. Batteries in the camera are gone so as soon as possible I will post a pic. Thanks for the help guys. Lorraine