tool for pulling galvanized nails

[joec]

I know this is not fine woodworking, but I need some advice. I have to start replacing the deck boards on my pressure treated deck. I know pulling those galvanized nails will be difficult. Any advice on what puller would be the best for this job? I only have the standard 12" long nail puller.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I used a deck board pry tool from Home Depot to remove the boards on my dock. It's a large pry tool and pops up boards along with their nails. Hammer the nails out in the shade! Looks like this:

 

[joec]

When you replaced the PT boards, what kind of fastener did you use?

 

[Joe Scharle]

If you're asking me (just a guess since you're on the coast too), I used McFeely's 305 SS deck screws.

 

[gritz]

Consider using one of the many hidden fastener systems for the new decking. You will not regret doing so.

 

[Jeff]

I have to start replacing the deck boards on my pressure treated deck.

1. Joe has the right tool for lifting the board and its nails without breaking your back and skinning your knuckles. The original nails could be "ring shanked" and they're a bear to pull out, but easier to drive out with a hammer and patience.

2. Are your replacement boards PT or composite? The hidden fasteners are nice and the composite boards are edge milled for them.

3. If you're going to replace with PT boards there are lots of choices but many are not suited for a coastal environment-high salt content, etc.

I think that this is the Joe Scharle gizmo...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmzhuSNqTSc

 

[joec]

I have not checked the price of composite yet, but wonder if the cost difference is justified. Any experience out their on the benefits of composite verses/PT?

 

[Steve_Honeycutt]

Joe,

I recently replaced railings on my front porch. When researching the options, I priced composite. The cheapest was 3X the price of pressure treated. Both had a 20 year guarantee. I went with pressure treated. YMMV.

Steve

 

[Jeff]

That's your assessment to determine for your deck. We replaced an original PT with TimberTech and it was about $ 3X. Ouch!

The PT deck was about 20 years old and in decent shape with minimal maintenance over those years. So we replaced it with composite and 7 years later I'm not dancing in the streets shouting the benefits of composite decking. It's ok but...$ 3X :roll:

BTW, we're 68 years old now.

 

[Gofor]

One neighbor put composite on his deck and ripped it up after about 5 years. It drooped between 16"oc joists and was hot on his feet. His was the Lowe's standard composite. Add to that the additional cost for the special fasteners, and he was more than underwhelmed by it.

The neighbor on the other side had the hidden fastener, tongue lock composite put on the deck off his kitchen which is over his patio when the house was built seven years ago. Other than some leaks that never got fixed before the developer went bankrupt, he is satisfied with the material itself.

Guess it depends on the quality and type when going that route. I went with the pt boards and the coated deck fasteners and have been happy with the results. Does require periodic maintenance, but the screws are still holding good after about 8 years. I am not in a salty environment, though, which you may be.

Go

 

[tri4sale]

I have not checked the price of composite yet, but wonder if the cost difference is justified. Any experience out their on the benefits of composite verses/PT?

I replaced my deck with composite, went for a little nicer finish than the stock colors from Lowes/HD so I did pay a premium over PT. Is it worth it? Depends on you. For me yes, I don't like the look of PT wood over time, and over time you'll save money on the PT deck maintenance. Will that savings ever reach the cost of composite decking? Probably not In my neighborhood decks wear out about every 10 years, most homeowners doing substantial deck work every 10 to 15 years. So if I get a 20 year life out of the composite deck, then the cost differential over time is not as great.

Benefits are longer life, less maintenance over time.
Cons are increase cost.

One thing I learned with mine was that the composite boards flex a lot more than PT lumber, and while the manufacturer called for 16" on center installation minimum, I wish I had gone with 12" on center install.

I also used a hidden fastener system and that is well worth the extra cost, the deck looks much nicer.

 

[joec]

I think my joists are on 2' centers. I guess I will replace with PT. I may do the top rail with the composite, as it seems to need to be replaced every 5 years, whereas my decking is 20 years old, and still decent shape.

 

[tri4sale]

I think my joists are on 2' centers. I guess I will replace with PT. I may do the top rail with the composite, as it seems to need to be replaced every 5 years, whereas my decking is 20 years old, and still decent shape.

I would add joists if they are 2' on center if you went with a composite. And consider replacing your railings with benches, they really add a great usable finish to a deck!

 

[joec]

I would add joists if they are 2' on center if you went with a composite. And consider replacing your railings with benches, they really add a great usable finish to a deck!

My deck in up about 7' off the ground. I have some benches, but must have the rail to keep safe.

 

[FlyingRon]

I put in a deck at my son's using the Kreg deck jig. Works nicely but you want two drills/drivers. One for the drill bit and one for the screw bit.

 

[joec]

I put in a deck at my son's using the Kreg deck jig. Works nicely but you want two drills/drivers. One for the drill bit and one for the screw bit.

Does this work well with "wet" pressure treated pine? It would seem the shrink would not be good for this system.

 

[redknife]

You may want to take a look at thermally modified poplar. The hardwood store has it. They can profile the wood (I.e. For rails, or groove for hidden fastens). Since it is generally available in 5/4 and it is poplar I'd probably go 12" on the joist spacing.

 

[FlyingRon]

Does this work well with "wet" pressure treated pine? It would seem the shrink would not be good for this system.

That's what I used it for. PT pine decking over PT joists. Standard Lowe's stuff. Seems to be holding up pretty well. The screws aren't threaded on the part that goes through the decking (just into the joist). I guess that and being angled allows them to hold up with the movement.

 

[chris_goris]

I know this is not fine woodworking, but I need some advice. I have to start replacing the deck boards on my pressure treated deck. I know pulling those galvanized nails will be difficult. Any advice on what puller would be the best for this job? I only have the standard 12" long nail puller.

Getting back on point here...... I replaced a bunch of mine recently, about 500 sq ft, and pulled up the boards with a 36" long crow bar that has a nail puller on the end. The 36" long length was the back saver for sure. But, mine were ring shanked nails and many of them stayed in place. Many of the heads would come off trying to pull them out, so I simply pounded them in.

https://www.zoro.com/westward-goose...v2sxgDwgEce828wuj7YQYaAnFB8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[joec]

Getting back on point here...... I replaced a bunch of mine recently, about 500 sq ft, and pulled up the boards with a 36" long crow bar that has a nail puller on the end. The 36" long length was the back saver for sure. But, mine were ring shanked nails and many of them stayed in place. Many of the heads would come off trying to pull them out, so I simply pounded them in.

https://www.zoro.com/westward-goose...v2sxgDwgEce828wuj7YQYaAnFB8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

I was thinking they would not pull out and I would have to break them off or pound them in. I bought the Home Depot tool that was recommended in an earlier reply and will see how that works.