Tool box plans

[Richo B]

I've posted on this before but need to pop up some ideas to generate some ideas or thought. I am planning to build a tool box for keeping certain tools in that I don't want out in the garage with the humidity. These consist of the planes, specialty saws, chisels and some specialty items. I'm trying to reserve the tool chest/work space in the garage for DIY type tools like wrenches and screwdrivers and get the expensive woodworking tools inside. So this tool chest would be somewhat portable. I would keep it in the laundry room and bring it out to the garage when I need it.


This first image shows the basic tool box that has most of the planes in the bottom with two trays that stack on risers along the walls of the box and hold the specialty saws and a mortise chisel. There are handles on either side of the box.


This second image shows a close-up of the planes that will be kept inside. I've done the measurements of the tools and materials and they do fit.

This is a mock-up of the full tool cabinet which comes in three pieces. The top box which has already been featured, a middle two drawer section and a bottom one drawer section. The whole thing rests on top of a plywood stool which I built last Spring. There is a platform that will set on the stool and the tool cabinet will fit to, that is not shown in this image.

These are the tools that will reside in the tool cabinet. They are pretty self evident except red handle item is a mortise chisel.

My concern is that I am making a heavy box to hold these things in and I wanted to see if there were any ideas of a better system. The main things I want to keep in this box are the planes and saws. The other items are flexible. I also have a rabbet plane which is not shown and I couldn't make or find a model of one that matched mine. It would be kept in one of the drawers of the second unit of the cabinet.

BTW - the wood I'm using for the top box is simple white wood. No hardwoods as I just don't have time for that sort of thing. This is not an heirloom piece. But I would like to use some decent joinery on it and not just staple a wood box together.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Mike Davis]

I'm still using a simple pine box I made 40 years ago. It ain't pretty but it ain't falling apart either.

Don't over think it, just build it.

 

[Chris C]

Here's mine...before I finished it. My take on Tommy MacDonald's toolbox. The plans and video were online (free) when I built it. Scale it up or down to suit your needs.

 

[Mike Davis]

I built my son a small size tool chest similar to Schwarz' anarchist chest but much smaller.

i used 1x12 pine shelving from the orange box and it is holding up nicely.

 

[bluedawg76]

so what happens if you get more tools? Got to think about expansion! I built my tool cabinet out of plywood and pocket hole screws -I know it's a sacrilege. It's not even close to being portable with the the tools in it. Funny thing is I've already filled it and have a bunch of molding planes now in plasticware. Personally I like my saws in a till rather than laying down -I think it's a bit more economical for space; similar idea for chisels-in a rack- so they don't rattle around. My other thought is accessibility. I use my chisels a lot, so I like the chisel rack on my bench (it rests on a french cleat attached to the back side of my bench). Just things to think about.

 

[Richo B]

All very good points. I looked at the anarchist's tool box and discovered the dutch tool box instead. It gives me ideas but the most important one being that my design isn't that bad and perhaps I should just go with that. As to expansion for more tools that will sort of come as it comes. There are a couple more tools that I envision getting at some point and they are part of the current plan for the full tool cabinet. In fact the shoulder plane in the above photo I don't own, but I'm saving space for. Same thing for a larger version of a router plane. Mike Davis says my jack plane is junk so that may get replaced one day as well. I bought mine for cheap at an antiques store. I really can't imagine getting a bunch of molding planes. I've always seen people with large collections of those and wondered why? But I'm not building stuff that require those yet. I agree with vertical storage of the saws and one of my original plans included a pullout with the saws in the vertical position.

I also looked at Tommy McDonald's tool box but it may be a little too complex for my skill level at this point. What I was really looking for was to see if what I designed was too cumbersome and foolish but to see videos of Chris Schwarz moving his dutch tool boxes around by carrying, on wheels or set on top of a stool tells me that I am on the right path.

All great thoughts and ideas. Thanks.

 

[Mike Davis]

I wasn't saying don't build it or that you should build something else. Actually I like the modular idea. Machinists tool chests are modular like that, always a smaller chest on top that gets moved around a lot, a middle drawer section that mostly stays on the cart, then the heavy cart that rolls but usually stays parked.

i mentioned the smaller anarchists style chest only to point out that I made my son's much smaller. He wanted a chest that fit in the trunk of a small car, is easy for one man to move, holds only the essential tools, has an easily removable tray. So I had Chris' design in mind but it is no where near his plan. I figure when he gets through the many years of school he will build a larger drawer cabinet to set the little chest on, so in effect similar to your modular idea.

 

[Richo B]

I agree Mike. What I liked about the dutch tool chest is the shelved space at the bottom. My concept has drawers because I wanted to build drawers but there may be some benefit to simple shelves. Still pondering this. I probably won't build the dutch tool chest exactly but I'm toying with the layout concept of the top chest having an access panel on the front so one can better access the items in the top and then an open space beneath. Then a second box for the top box to rest on (with dowels or similar) and the second box would have deep drawers or a shelf for two areas of storage. This bottom item would be on wheels. Nice thing about all these chests is one can make them any size they want. I do need something that I can carry from the laundry room, down three steps into the garage and then back. If I'm carrying two boxes and setting them up that is no worse than what I have to go through to set my work bench up every time to use it. But for me portability is the key. I only do wood working on the weekends so having to bring the shop together like this isn't that much of a pain. Being able to park my cars in the garage is the real benefit.

 

[Rick M]

David Barron makes some handsome small tool chests. I don't know if the has plans but they are basically boxes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SI0kAuCqsdc

Here are some of my favorites, as I've been thinking about making one too.

Charlie Buchanan (no plan)
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=74492

Machinist style by PM (free plan)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Woodworkers-Toolbox/

Carpenter's toolbox ($$ plan)
http://plansnow.com/dn3073c.html

Oak tool chest (no plan)
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/38217

 

[Richo B]

Rick M - you have always given some good ideas on my requests. I'll be sure to check out these links later today. The one at lumberjocks I may have already seen.

 

[Dave Richards]

Another chest you might look is Michael Pekovich's Essential Tool Chest. Plans are available for if it's of interest.

If you get the digital plans, the SketchUp model is included. You could modify the model if you need to.

 

[Tarhead]

The simple Japanese wooden tool boxes are one option if you need portability. I really like the wedge lock option you see for the lid in some plans. Here's one: http://blog.woodcraft.com/2013/12/making-a-traditional-japanese-toolbox/ and a YouTube:
[video=youtube;FB2Ly_8xWjI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FB2Ly_8xWjI[/video]

 

[Mark Gottesman]

After casting around for a tool chest, I settled on a Japanese style since I needed something more for transport than onsite storage which I already have. It is quite functional and I have been pleased with it both functionally and visually.

Here is a previous thread: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=57492&highlight=japanese+tool+chest

 

[Richo B]

I have looked into all the different ideas that have been posted and finally designed a tool chest that I will enjoy making and will also hold most of my tools with room for more. Its loosely based on Schwarz's larger Dutch tool box. Mine will be in two parts that can be stored in our laundry room in a former cut-out that was intended for using a sewing machine. I might still do the 30 degree incline opening or the one that is featured. Undecided as of yet. This design will work with the materials I've already bought for the original design. What I didn't like about that original design is I felt like I was making a "bucket" box that had planes in the bottom and trays on top. Not a real good use of material and space.


This is a quick Sketchup rendering of the chest. It features storage on top of planes, hand saws and chisels (rectangular things represent the space taken up by the handles of the chisels,. not necessarily their actual shape). There are two drawers beneath. The drawers hold other chisels, auger bits, drill bits, and the rabbet plane with its accessories. The two shelves of the bottom section hold the brace, whetstone case and any additional tools that I might acquire in the future such as larger router plane, spokeshave and other larger items. Though the image doesn't depict it there will be panels that will cover the open storage top and the two shelves on the front during storage and transport. I just wanted to get a basic idea down and then do the real designing from there.

 

[Rwe2156]

>>BTW - the wood I'm using for the top box is simple white wood. No hardwoods as I just don't have time for that sort of thing. This is not an heirloom piece. But I would like to use some decent joinery on it and not just staple a wood box together.<<

Use some decent wood, even pine is ok as Mike said, but white wood? It doesn't any longer to build using decent wood.

Think about what will be said about your craftsmanship and how you feel about your tools.
Even as simple as a tool box -- who knows, don't tell your grandkids 40 years from now its not an heirloom.
Have a good one!

 

[Richo B]

Well for now white wood is cheaper than pine or any other. I'd hate to buy good wood and make mistakes on it. Remember I'm still a beginner at this so my craftsmanship is going to look bad regardless. Furniture conservation I've been doing for years but wood working only a couple. And this would be a first tool box. A big project, and fun but not something many will ever see.

 

[JohnnyR]

Some 'whitewood' I've found has not been much better than balsa. Doesn't even hold small screws or 18 gauge nails. If nothing else, hold a piece of whitewood and compare the weight (i.e. density) to pine or any other wood you're considering.

 

[Rwe2156]

Well for now white wood is cheaper than pine or any other. I'd hate to buy good wood and make mistakes on it. Remember I'm still a beginner at this so my craftsmanship is going to look bad regardless. Furniture conservation I've been doing for years but wood working only a couple. And this would be a first tool box.

What's the difference between spruce and pine? I recently did a cabinet door project using the select pine at HD (hated to do it, but needed in a hurry). Check it you maybe be only talking less than $20 diff. Compared to white wood (full of knots), it was worth the extra money. I think you'll find WW is so soft, it is hard to saw accurately for joinery. And your chisels need to be razor sharp.

A big project, and fun but not something many will ever see.

You'll see it. Doesn't that matter? ;-)

Here's a thought: You could get an idea what you're up against by building a prototype with the cheap wood. You may be surprised at your skill level!
Then go back and make it with nicer, more durable wood. BTW a standard for toolboxes is oak.

 

[Mike Davis]

I’ve seen a lot of vintage tool chests in my travels, and most of them have been made of pine. What kind of pine? Hard to say. Most pines look the same when they are covered in paint, dirt, grease and what looks like monkey dung.
But pine is not the only wood appropriate for a tool chest.
When you set out to choose a wood species, it’s best not to be dogmatic about the genus and instead try to get into the mindset of the pre-Industrial chest builder. Did they pick pine because it was anointed with the magical juices of Care Bear glands? Probably not.
Instead, pine was cheap, lightweight, widely available and strong enough for a tool chest.
So those are the same guidelines I would recommend you follow when picking a species for your tool chest. Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) is readily available only in a small section of North America. Is it awesome? Yes. Should you break your bank account trying to get it? Absolutely not.
I recommend you try to find any species that fits the above criteria. In most of North America, tulip poplar is an excellent choice for a tool chest. It is dirt cheap, available in wide widths and has a face for a paint brush (if you know what I’m saying).
Other pines would be suitable for a tool chest. Sugar pine is a good choice. In some parts of the United States (such as where I live) we are lousy with walnut. In the western states, take a look at alder. Heck, even basswood is strong enough for a tool chest.
What species should you avoid? Heavy woods (maple, yellow pine, insane exotics), ring-porous woods that are difficult to dovetail (ash and the oaks), pines that crumble (radiata). But despite that last sentence, I’ve seen fantastic tool chests made using all those species and they can do the job. But they wouldn’t be my first choice for a chest wood.
Bottom line: Don’t let the species of woods available in your area force you into making a crazy decision, such as buying Eastern white pine for $8 a board foot. Instead, look around you. Look to the skies – and I mean that literally. What trees are in your backyard?
— Christopher Schwarz

 

[Richo B]

Here's a thought: You could get an idea what you're up against by building a prototype with the cheap wood. You may be surprised at your skill level!
Then go back and make it with nicer, more durable wood. BTW a standard for toolboxes is oak.

That statement drives it home. I'm looking at a basic way of keeping tools in a way that I can move them in and out of the house but down the line I'll make something of better material. The whitewood that I buy at Lowes isn't that bad. I built a three legged stool with it last year that has held up very well. Of course I also stained and finished it. I use it for my gardening work.

Pine is a strong alternative for this project. Oak and hard woods are what I was planning to stay away from due to cost and high chance of mistake. I laid the tools out on the whitewood I have yesterday and it feels durable enough. I've been warned against whitewood before but I don't think all whitewood is created equal. Maybe its depends on where you get it and what each individual batch consists of?

The wood featured on the top of my sawbench in my avatar is something that was already in the wood storage room in the house we bought. I'm guessing it is some sort of pine. Hard as a rock and very tough to saw. Definitely don't want to make a tool chest out of that difficult material.