1/4" caulk.......It's new to me and quite useful, but at the end of the video did you notice that the template didn't fill the void?
Or you could just sharpen the end of the stick and go with that.I wonder if more precise results would come from placing a thin brad or some other metal shaft a little inward from the tip? Using it as indicated in the video would require careful placement as close as possible to the corner, whereas a small brad or thin shaft added which protruded below the stick could be placed into the corner, ensuring more accurate measurements.
Perhaps a thin piece of sheet metal slotted into the stick, in such a way as to have the thin edge placed into the corner, mounted so that it can be removed when not needed?
You can get an idea of how it is used on a curve in the upper left corner of the image I shared....but how do you use on a curve? New knowledge is always good knowledge. Thanks Gary!
That would not work like what I suggested, as the stick would still be higher than the opening you're trying to measure. IMO the imprecision comes from the end of the stick and the corner being measured having different heights. Not significantly different, perhaps, but different nonetheless.Or you could just sharpen the end of the stick and go with that.
I don’t know a lot of things, but i do know that the system works as is with a high level of accuracy. The template I made and posted earlier in this thread using this system was a dead match to the wall I templated. What I remembered of this particular video demonstration she did not use a lot of marking points and it was a rushed demo. I have over the years made templates this way for countertops and cabinetry with very high levels of accuracy using the simplest of ticking stick. I’m not saying what you suggest won’t work, I’m saying that it’s not needed.That would not work like what I suggested, as the stick would still be higher than the opening you're trying to measure. IMO the imprecision comes from the end of the stick and the corner being measured having different heights. Not significantly different, perhaps, but different nonetheless.
My suggestion would take all guesswork out of getting the stick to the terminal point of measurement, as one would push it all of the way into the corner, until the brad/sheet metal edge contacts the innermost intersection of the sides, without having to eye whether or not it is actually even with this intersection.
My suggestion arose from thinking about the comment above regarding her pattern being smaller than the opening, which, with the stick used as illustrated, would always be somewhat imprecise, again IMO. My suggestion removes most, if not all, imprecision in using the stick as illustrated in the video.
Does that make sense?