Thinking about buying a jointer, new or used?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Robert166

robert166
Corporate Member
I have been considering purchasing a jointer, but not familiar with the most versatile one for a small hobby wood shop. Let me first say I do not like buying a "cheaply made tool" just to save money. But I do not want to spend more than I need. Example I will buy Craftsman hand tools, not Taskforce, or Snap On. One too cheap one too expensive. I like best bang for the buck, not an all the bells and whistles guy. That being said I do not want a cheap one and not a high dollar one. So opinions on used vs. new and which brands are solid reliable machines?

Thanks
 

blakeyon2asd

New User
blake
You should look on craigslist here lately I've been seeing a lot of 6" jointers. Can't really tell you a middle class just get something that doesn't look worn out and doesn't have a bunch of plastic. I've only own two jointers a delta 6, and a powermatic 8" so I don't have to much experience with a middle of the line I've only had really bad and really good.
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
I prefer buying used machines as they are often a better value over new..but that necessitates you knowing what to look for in a used jointer. Either buy from someone whom you trust to sell you a machine in good working order, or bone up on jointers - say something like Duginske's book "Mastering Woodworking Machines" - so you can perform your own pre-purchase inspections. Also when you find a used jointer for sale, review opinions of the *model* not just the maker in an internet search. Delta, for example, produced lots of great models of jointers, but also some dogs.

For new jointers, I'd recommend you find a magazine with a recent review of jointers and go from there. Doubtless there are some folks here that have jointers bought new that can render opinions.

Before looking at machines, I do recommend you decide how wide the stock you commonly expect to use and also what your $ budget is. The normal progression for hobbyists seems to be to buy a 6" jointer first then eventually upgrade to an 8". I think this is fine - especially if the $$ you save buying a 6" jointer allows you to buy (most of) a planer.

-Mark


 

red

Papa Red
Red
Senior User
There was a nice Ridgid jointer here in our classifieds. I have the same one and it works well.

Red
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Saw this one and sure it is a very good, but 900.00 is a little more than I want to spend.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/4292145340.html

That price is absurd for a used 6" Jointer. My 8" Jet (JJ-8CS) sold for $1154 about 6 years ago (well, 10% less at the time of my purchase), and the 6" model at the time was about half to two-thirds as much. In fact, by my recollection this seller's price is nearly equal to what the 6" Powermatic jointer was selling for at the time.

Their price would have been well within reason for an 8" Jointer in excellent condition as they hold their value much better than the 6" models (for which there are usually a glut on the market due to people upgrading to 8" models).

I'm not sure where they ever got the idea that it was a $1600 value?! I guess because there is a single Amazon seller that comes up in the results at $1500?

PS - Some research suggests that this particular jointer sells brand new for about $800-900 retail (and about once a year Jet will often have a 10% off sale).
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I don't have a jointer but have read quite a bit about them. You may want to check out the reviews for 6" and 8" machines at FWW.

BTW, a brand new 6" Craftsman is about $600.
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
There was a nice Ridgid jointer here in our classifieds. I have the same one and it works well.

Red

+1 on the Ridgid. I have had one for about 9 years now and it has performed very well for me.

Wayne
 

jazzflute

Kevin
Corporate Member
I think that jointers are a somewhat "special" case in the new vs. used conundrum. That is because only recently have the lower cost models been made available with segmented spiral cutter heads, which is a life-changing improvement over the traditional knife-type cutter heads that preceded them. They are more costly than fixed knives, but are so much easier to maintain, and give such a better quality finish, that I think they are worthy of consideration. While you might find a used machine that has them, their relative newness at the hobbyist end of the market makes them scarce on the used market.

K
 

Robert166

robert166
Corporate Member
Was in Lowes today and saw a Porter Cable bench top jointer for $250.00. It had mixed reviews but most everything does. They also have some made by Steel City for about $100.00 more. Don't know anything about Steel City. But it has a Helical Head, and the Porter Cable has the two knife head. Thoughts?
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
The downside to those spiral carbide cutters is it must take forever to rotate all the blades. At least you shouldn't have to do it very often.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
Was in Lowes today and saw a Porter Cable bench top jointer for $250.00. It had mixed reviews but most everything does. They also have some made by Steel City for about $100.00 more. Don't know anything about Steel City. But it has a Helical Head, and the Porter Cable has the two knife head. Thoughts?

If you intend to build projects larger than scale models or small jewelry boxes then you generally don't want to consider benchtop jointers. Most are powered by universal motors, have small diameter cutterheads, and worse still extremely short infeed and outfeed tables (as a rule of thumb the maximum length board that can be easily jointed is equal to about twice the length of the shortest table).

As for helical or spiral heads, they can be very nice but unless you work with a lot of very highly figured wood (e.g. birdseye, etc.) then it is more a 6-of-one, half-dozen-of-another argument, they have their pros and cons like everything else and you generally are not going to go wrong either way. If I were to choose just one tool to invest towards a helical carbide cutterhead system it would be the thickness planer, first and foremost, as the jointer is only required to provide you with flat and squared surfaces in preparation for thicknessing (a critical role, but not necessarily the finished surface), the real surfacing and final thicknessing happens in the planer where, ideally, you should be removing an equal thickness of material from each side of the board any how (i.e. it will resurface the surface left behind from jointing the board).

As for the helical head on the Steel City benchtop jointer, with just 12 inserts it is likely equivalent to a single knife jointer. My preference is for 3 and 4 knife jointers, two is acceptable, but a single knife can only be made up for by either spinning the cutterhead at ridiculous RPMs (which can greatly increase vibration) or significantly slowing the feed rate, otherwise you end up with a scalloped surfaces. However, its granite beds are fine, as would be cast iron (my preference), but steer clear of those with aluminum beds as they have much less vibration dampening mass and often have inferior grinding quality (they also offer a good deal more friction, hence the reason they are often ribbed).

But, in general, if you are serious about woodworking and intend to build furniture and fixture sized pieces then you really want to stick to 6" or 8" (or larger if needed) freestanding jointers. Benchtop planers, on the other hand, I have no issues with for the hobby woodworker as they have a very simple job to do (i.e. thickness a board after the Jointer has done the real work of flattening and squaring it) -- in fact my benchtop planer is the venerable DeWalt DW735. Stay away from combo jointer-planer machines unless you are willing to pay top dollar for the space saving as anything in the "affordable" realm is pretty much universally junk.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
From your question, you say which brands are solid, reliable machines. These , like anything else tend to be the more expensive items, regardless of what youre talking about. Personally, I like buying high quality used equipment. Used woodworking equipment typically is half the cost of new and this stands for equipment that can have some age and use as well. A 6" jointer should be easy to find used , a Jet, Delta or Powermatic are very common and good machines. That being said, the reason there are so many as I discovered myself, they tend to be too small to be alot of good for most things, the tables are too short (some, not all) and they are underpowered and dont have enough mass to cleanly face a 6" wide board very well. They will do it, but you tend to get alot of chatter and have to take light cuts during this operation. This is why I moved to an 8" Delta from my 6" Delta and I have never regretted it, it laughs at anything I throw at it and it has straight blades, no tear out of anything. You should be able to get a decent used 6" jointer for between $300-450 and an 8" for around $800-1200.
 

SubGuy

Administrator
Zach
I have a few thoughts I would like to express concerning joiners.
1) 6" or 8". I have often wished for 8" as I have a 6" now. I have had to rip cupped boards in half due to their width. I have found the wider the board, the more prone to cupping. I could have done without having to do a glue up because my joiner is too narrow.
2) Spiral (or Helix, Shelix....) or standard knives. I find as Ethan has said, there is many a time I know that the spiral would not make a difference. Times when I wish I had it (have used a beautiful 8" Powermatic (PM) with a Byrd): Bird's Eye Maple and other significant figured boards, Hard Maple (just for ease of machining); when you get a nick in the blade.
3) Quality of machine: It goes without saying that PM, Delta, Laguna and a number of other high end tools are great. Where you find that grey area is in the "middle of the road" tools. I have the lowest end Grizzly 6" free standing joiner they make. It's great, but I do have to go back and square the fence more often than I think I should. I will be replacing it sometime in the future because I want 8" (or more) and less worry about coming out of square in the fence. I would say that the more expensive Grizzly models definitely are better as I have used them. I would absolutely not buy a bench top. I would be happy to introduce you to a friend that bought a box store cheapy and then upgraded to a higher prices bench top. He now is a proud owner of an 8" Delta. Food for thought.
4) Which brings me to my last point. Buy as much length as you can afford. You can use short boards on a long joiner, you can't use a long board on a short joiner (without undesirable results). If I could afford it, find it and had room for it, I would on a 16" Joiner with a 12ft bed. (I imagine I could get some special milling work out of that one)

I know you can get an 8" quality joiner used for under $500. Patience and knowing what to look for is key. My friend who owns the Delta 8", actually bought two. One and one for parts (that he found out he needed after taking a closer look at his joiner, long after he got it in his garage. I advise caution. Check beds for square, check all the fence and attaching hardware, check the motor, knifes, and head (especially for play in the bearings). Adjust the fence, use all the lock downs for adjustments and then run the joiner. You can find good used or you pay for the surety of new. Hope that helps.
 

Jeremy Scuteri

Moderator
Jeremy
+1 to looking for a used 8" jointer. You can always upgrade to a spiral head down the road if you choose. It is very easy to put in a spiral head on a jointer (more difficult on a planer). I got a used delta 8" jointer a few years ago for $500. I just recently upgraded the cutterhead with an 8" Byrd Shelix. I don't find the the Byrd Shelix cuts any better than the stock Grizzly spiral cutterhead in my planer, but both are much, much better than the straight knives (I do use a lot of figured wood).
 

wwidmer

New User
Bill
Do yourself a favor and stay away from the benchtop and get a floor model. +1 to looking for a used 8" jointer as well if you can find one for a decent price, otherwise there are quite a few 6" jointers out there. Price can also depend on your level of tolerance for what needs fixing/adjusting. Be wary of old larger jointers with the square head design which are dangerous/no longer made - some good discussions about jointers available on www.owwm.org. Old larger jointers with newer heads are fine. Good luck in the hunt and your purchase!
 

Endless Pursuit

New User
Jeff
If you buy the Grizzly 10" spiral head jointer that I'm looking at, I'll trade you even up for an excellent 6" Rigid straight knife:D
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
I know it is a tremendous amount of money compared to what the OP was discussing, but I'll mention that the Robland X31 currently for sale in the NCWW Classifieds has a 12" jointer powered by a 3HP motor.

No affiliation other than owning a Robland X31 myself.

-Mark
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

Top