Thank You Matt Buntyn

[KurtB]

Have to give thanks to Matt for the pics of his Shaker Side Table. Right around the time I was looking to build a small table for the side of our couch his photos arrived in the Forums. I thought it was beautiful and decided on a similar design for mine. The dimensions are a bit different at 12" X 24" and 23" high.
My first time working with Cherry and most of the work was done with hand tools. I even got my G.H. Bishop 1880's tenon saw into the mix. I used a Chris Shwarz video program as a guide. Great learning experience for me.

Now it's on to finishing the piece and I'm wondering what you folks think of Shwarz's finishing mix of BLO/Spar varnish/Mineral oil in equal parts? I normally use wipe-on poly or shellac, but I thought the shellac might not be durable enough and I don't want any "plastic" feel to the table. I thought I'd try something else this time.
Thanks for any advice on it.

 

[creasman]

Nice job!

 

[Mike Davis]

I think it is mineral spirits, not oil. Check again. I use that mix on anything that is not for food contact.

 

[KurtB]

I think it is mineral spirits, not oil. Check again. I use that mix on anything that is not for food contact.

Oops. Yes, definitely mineral spirits. My typo. thanks Mike.

 

[Graywolf]

Nice work, the finish you are speaking of is a pretty good one. Like other finishes you mentioned it is one that has to be maintained from time to time but is reasonably durable. It will show moisture stains if you leave a glass on it things like that.

 

[mdbuntyn]

Job's a good'n!

 

[Chris C]

Awesome... Did you make the tapers on the legs with a plane? I use the band saw to rough cut mine and then clean up with a jointer plane.

 

[KurtB]

Nice work, the finish you are speaking of is a pretty good one. Like other finishes you mentioned it is one that has to be maintained from time to time but is reasonably durable. It will show moisture stains if you leave a glass on it things like that.

Thanks Richard. I'm also looking at possibly using Waterlox. Need to get more input on that.

 

[KurtB]

Job's a good'n!

Thanks very much Matt, and for the inspiration as well!

 

[KurtB]

Awesome... Did you make the tapers on the legs with a plane? I use the band saw to rough cut mine and then clean up with a jointer plane.

Made the tapers using a plane. Stanley #5 and finishing up with my #7. Plenty of exercise.
I did try my scrub plane, but I felt it was a little too rough and risky with the cherry.

 

[demondeacon]

I have made 4 or 5 cherry tables this Spring and finished them all with Waterlox, and am pleased. It is relatively simple. After 2 or 3 coats you will want to wet sand with 400-600 grit paper. Note the original Waterlox is semi or full gloss which my wife does not like. They do make a satin final finish product that you put on as the last coat and it does give a more satin finish. Allow a day between coats to dry and then a good 7-10 days to cure. You probably do not want to put any wax on top, at least not Briwax which messed up the Waterlox finish on two of my end tables and had to come back off. .

I also put a few of my tables out in the driveway to sunbath for several hours over about 5 days and it is amazing how that accelerates the deepening of the cherry color. I did this before putting any finish on.

 

[KurtB]

I have made 4 or 5 cherry tables this Spring and finished them all with Waterlox, and am pleased. It is relatively simple. After 2 or 3 coats you will want to wet sand with 400-600 grit paper. Note the original Waterlox is semi or full gloss which my wife does not like. They do make a satin final finish product that you put on as the last coat and it does give a more satin finish. Allow a day between coats to dry and then a good 7-10 days to cure. You probably do not want to put any wax on top, at least not Briwax which messed up the Waterlox finish on two of my end tables and had to come back off. .

I also put a few of my tables out in the driveway to sunbath for several hours over about 5 days and it is amazing how that accelerates the deepening of the cherry color. I did this before putting any finish on.

Thanks for the info Dave. I was going to put the table in the sun, but I'm wondering if the humidity here on the coast and then bringing it back into an air conditioned house will have any negative effects on it?

 

[demondeacon]

Thanks for the info Dave. I was going to put the table in the sun, but I'm wondering if the humidity here on the coast and then bringing it back into an air conditioned house will have any negative effects on it?

Well I live in Wilmington on the coast, and agree that right now the humidity is indeed God-awful. Perhaps you can wait for a few days where it is more in the 60-70 range rather than 95+. My workshop is in my garage and I work with the door open for light and ventilation so there is no change in moisture content for me. I do bring the boards inside right before glue-ups generally. If you work in an airconditioned space and have had everything indoors for a few weeks then I guess that might be different.

 

[KurtB]

Thanks Dave. I also work in the garage and then I usually bring things inside between sessions. I was thinking along your lines of waiting to see if the humidity drops. Wish I would have done it a couple weeks ago when it was down to 35% outside. Guess for now I could put it near a window.