Table Saw Recommendations

[iclark]

A track saw and a sheet of insulation board is probably a safer choice for breaking down sheet goods than trying to wrestle the sheets onto and across a tablesaw by yourself. That is doubly true if your saw is not wide enough to use a rip fence when you are breaking down the sheet goods. Free-handing cuts on a TS have led to lots of injuries and suits against the saw manufacturers.

If you already have a good circular saw, there are adapter plates to pair it with guides so that it functions as a track saw.

 

[Kelly]

My friend Zach, and everyone, not to beat a dead horse….
I do not blame the saw. I absentmindedly put my finger where it should not be, period.
My bad. In my case, I just recognize that at 72, I am not as sharp as I was at a spry 65, but the blades are. So, give it up, or buy insurance.

 

[iclark]

I see that there is a good deal on some tracks in For Sale/Trade if you are local to the seller.

 

[zdorsch]

I hear you Kelly! And no worries, mistakes definitely happen.

My uncle recently caught his thumb on a home table saw. He’s been working accident free, except for a fork lift mishap or 2 in the 1970’s, in a commercial woodworking shop for several decades.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I’m not a fan of Sawstop, mostly because they selfishly don’t share their patent. It’s simply corporate greed. Why shouldn’t this be a required standard feature on all saws. I’m not saying they can’t benefit from sales of all saws with this feature either. I believe if they got royalties from everyone who are making saws those proceeds would make up for any loss in sales. Years from now after patent expires, all saws will have a similar feature. We’ll look back and say, wow I can’t believe our fathers were working with such dangerous equipment.

The saw is superior without the proprietary safety features. Unfortunately the SS feature was better executed by Bosch who did the same thing without wasting the blade. But again corporate greed outweighs use of a better safety feature.

To be clear, take away the Sawstop feature and compare to other saws. Sawstop still comes out as one of the best choices there are. I just think they are irresponsible for not allowing all saws to be safer because they are putting profit before safety.

 

[Martin Roper]

It’s simply corporate greed. Why shouldn’t this be a required standard feature on all saws.

Decades ago Volvo shared the patent on the 3-point seat belt harness that every car uses today. They didn't even ask for royalties.

Volvo engineer Nils Bohlin

Bohlin's 1959 invention is credited with saving an estimated 35,000-50,000 lives.

 

[1075tech]

they are putting profit before safety.

This applies to nearly every corporation there is.

I work in safety for a major multi state fuels marketer. I fight this every day.

I appreciate every one's comments and suggestions. And the PMs with offers.

Keep up the conversation though. I haven't made any decisions yet but I'm sure someone else will have similar questions and will find the information useful

 

[Echd]

I’m not a fan of Sawstop, mostly because they selfishly don’t share their patent. It’s simply corporate greed. Why shouldn’t this be a required standard feature on all saws. I’m not saying they can’t benefit from sales of all saws with this feature either. I believe if they got royalties from everyone who are making saws those proceeds would make up for any loss in sales. Years from now after patent expires, all saws will have a similar feature. We’ll look back and say, wow I can’t believe our fathers were working with such dangerous equipment.

The saw is superior without the proprietary safety features. Unfortunately the SS feature was better executed by Bosch who did the same thing without wasting the blade. But again corporate greed outweighs use of a better safety feature.

To be clear, take away the Sawstop feature and compare to other saws. Sawstop still comes out as one of the best choices there are. I just think they are irresponsible for not allowing all saws to be safer because they are putting profit before safety.

As a sawstop owner I share and agree with your concerns. My biggest problem with their buffoonery was when they went after Bosch and their Reaxx product, and through legal wrangling essentially had the courts consider any blade-brakeing tech in the US an infringement of their patent. Wholly unreasonable and ridiculous. There are safety products out there similar but not identical to sawstop and some purportedly better as they do not necessarily damage the blades.

That said, my hands are pretty valuable, and I am aware of the dangers of the table saw. So I set aside my principles to avoid potential serious injury.

If you can swing it, a sawstop is the way to go.

 

[1075tech]

Every tool, powered or not, has a level of injury risk associated with it.

Eye and face protection, cut resistant gloves, hearing protection, and clothing choices all play a part.

Use push sticks, feather boards, sacrificial fences and avoid or limit distractions.

I know the subject is table saws, but jointers, planers, routers, band saws, and lathes all have their issues as well.

If you've never seen what a lathe can do to the human body, trust me when I say that you probably don't want to

 

[tvrgeek]

I won't use a saw without a riving knife. Period.
Some older Unisaws can be retrofitted, but be sure.

Yes a SawStop is expensive. Yes, you can be careful but we call accidents accidents for a reason. The biggest safety feature I have on my table saw is my band saw. I use the table saw less than half than I used to.
A cabinet saw should be a lifetime tool. Think if 500 vs 3K is really cheaper than 500 now and 3500 in a couple years.

If you just don't have the cash, been there, consider if you really need a table saw. About 90% can be done with a track saw and a router. Not that they are particularly safe either.

FWIW, I bought the Harvey with the understanding I would try to obsolete it eventually. I had a Ridgid contractor saw that did every cut I ever needed, but it scared me a couple of times. Close calls.

If all else fails, one can build museum quality furniture with tools from Diston and Stanley. It just takes a little longer.

 

[mdbuntyn]

Let's not get into yet another SawStop vs The World debate.

 

[Warped Woodwerks]

I too have a SawStop. With my original one, I had 1 "minor" issue with it and SS eventually replaced the entire saw.

The 1 "minor" issue was... the saw never started.. right from the factory. Oh well. After some back and forth.. troubleshooting (2-3 months?), SS eventually sent me a brand new replacement table saw with a fresh 2 year warranty. Before my SS, I owned a DeWalt jobsite. To me... that was a scary as heck piece of equipment, but then again, that was all I could afford at the time.

As someone mentioned, fine furniture can be made with a lot of tools, and one doesn't necessarily need a cabinet saw, or table saw, to do just that.

I have a track saw, but that is more or less for breaking down large sheet goods, imo. Sure, one could do more with a track saw, vs just breaking down sheet goods, but I'd rather just use my track saw for that, and nothing more.

If you have the financial means, buy whatever is nice for you. Track saw, track saw and... , just a table saw (jobsite, contractor, or cabinet), table saw and... etc.
Whatever you buy... just practice safety and always be aware.

Also, regardless of what you buy... just make sure you also read up on their customer service. Sometimes.. that is worth the tools weight in gold.

Enjoy!

 

[Wilsoncb]

I would really like to stay under the $500 range.

Back to the original issue, can you get a decent TS for $500? I had the same dilemma recently and looked extensively for something used that would have at least a riving knife and some accommodation for dust collection. I also wanted something in the 3 hp range. (Everyone with a 1-1/2 to 2 hp will say you can get by with this). You find a bunch of the Delta, DeWalt, Rigid, etc contractor saws in your price range. They have a riving knife and maybe some DC. Not likely to find that plus 3 hp. So ultimately, these will work OK depending on what you are looking for. Face it, they will work. Are they great, no but they meet the target price.

If it were me, I would wait until I could afford a little better. Here’s an example:

I just did a quick search in FB Marketplace & found a Grizzly G1023SL for $1150. You might be able to get it for $900-1000. It checks all what I consider the minimum boxes, but for you obviously twice your target.

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[1075tech]

Back to the original issue, can you get a decent TS for $500? I had the same dilemma recently and looked extensively for something used that would have at least a riving knife and some accommodation for dust collection. I also wanted something in the 3 hp range. (Everyone with a 1-1/2 to 2 hp will say you can get by with this). You find a bunch of the Delta, DeWalt, Rigid, etc contractor saws in your price range. They have a riving knife and maybe some DC. Not likely to find that plus 3 hp. So ultimately, these will work OK depending on what you are looking for. Face it, they will work. Are they great, no but they meet the target price.

If it were me, I would wait until I could afford a little better. Here’s an example:

I just did a quick search in FB Marketplace & found a Grizzly G1023SL for $1150. You might be able to get it for $900-1000. It checks all what I consider the minimum boxes, but for you obviously twice your target.

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Unfortunately, I don't see getting anything other than a portable job site saw, new, for that price.

A new Delta Contractor is $700 but from reviews, it appears they still haven't fixed the motor issue and a lot of complaints about the two piece fence rails.

Used contractor's can be had in my initial price range.

I'm looking at a few used saws - a now discontinued DeWalt, a Delta Contractor, and the Unisaw previously mentioned.

I know I'm going to have to step up my expenditure if I'm going to do anything

 

[bshilkitus]

As I put my shop together, about the last major tool I want/need to get is a table saw.

I currently have a Craftsman bench top style that was cheap 25 years ago when I bought it.

I'm looking to upgrade.

Although my plan for use would be mostly boards of probably 12" width or so, I can see the need to rip down sheet goods to various sizes.

I don't have a large amount of space so the large 52" class saws would likely be out.

Right now, I'm looking at a couple of Delta Contractor saws for $350 - $400. But I've come across a Unisaw with a 32"(?) Biesemeyer fence. He's asking $700.

All of these are older saws. The contactors being 1990s vintage with the Unisaw a 1983. The Unisaw is 220 though so I would have to do some electrical upgrades.

I would really like to stay under the $500 range.

Looking to the experts here for opinions

Beg borrow and steal, and get a Sawstop. You will never regret the price tag once you have it.

 

[1075tech]

Beg borrow and steal, and get a Sawstop. You will never regret the price tag once you have it.

I'd definitely have to steal it. For me, those kind of things are lottery winnings purchases.

I'm strongly leaning towards the Unisaw with the Biesemeyer fence. Waiting on some more pictures and info. It's more saw than I'll ever need in my lifetime.

I'll have to run a sub panel as it's a 3 HP 220v but I'm comfortable doing that myself. Unless the motor can be rewired.

Based on a previous mention, looking at the Sharkguard setup if I go with this saw.

 

[Craptastic]

Don't rewire the saw. Wire the shop for it.

And while it may currently be "more saw than I'll ever need in my lifetime" keep an open mind toward the Sawstop for the future. If I could swing one I would do it in a heartbeat for the safety feature of keeping all of my fingers intact.

 

[FredP]

I'd definitely have to steal it. For me, those kind of things are lottery winnings purchases.

I'm strongly leaning towards the Unisaw with the Biesemeyer fence. Waiting on some more pictures and info. It's more saw than I'll ever need in my lifetime.

I'll have to run a sub panel as it's a 3 HP 220v but I'm comfortable doing that myself. Unless the motor can be rewired.

Based on a previous mention, looking at the Sharkguard setup if I go with this saw.

This! You won't regret it.

 

[1075tech]

So, I did find that it is a September 82 built saw (serial number 83Lxxx), model 34-801. At some point the original fence was replace with a 32" Biesemeyer.

3 HP 220v

 

[FredP]

At that price for the uni.... your probably out of luck by now. They don't Last long under 1000.