Swivel counter stools

[Jeff]

I'm lost in this design and struggling without a paper sketch to visualize it. How do the rings fit in the design around the legs?

No, looking at a ring around four legs, ID 16” OD 18”.

Two round seat rings ID 14” OD 16” Where do these go in the design?

Typical round bar stool. This design is not typical to me. Are the legs 2" thick, hence the 16" and 18" to the legs to fit in between the rings.

 

[Willemjm]

I'm lost in this design and struggling without a paper sketch to visualize it. How do the rings fit in the design around the legs?

No, looking at a ring around four legs, ID 16” OD 18”.

Two round seat rings ID 14” OD 16” Where do these go in the design?

Typical round bar stool. This design is not typical to me. Are the legs 2" thick, hence the 16" and 18" to the legs to fit in between the rings.

Something like this in the picture below but for comfort my bottom ring will go around the legs, and trying hard to make it look nice. Real hard to make a functional swivel bar stool with a backrest that is aesthetically pleasing, but I am trying.

The last time I made bar stools, I liked the outcome, but they were not swivel and they did not have backrests. That link is posted below the picture

https://ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php?threads/furniture-grade-bar-stools.46987/

 

[JohnnyR]

If you do segments like on your picture with overlaps, two or three rings would be plenty strong, as a opposed to Ken's which is butt jointed.

 

[gritz]

This is one of those relaxing projects, no deadline, no plans, just wing it.

Step one, cut the legs as per the pic.

Step two will be making a round ring that goes around the legs, step three the round seat and support. No idea yet how I am going to make those?

Any ideas?
View attachment 184557

Have you considered a chrome or brass stretcher ring? They are available as 19"ODx18"ID stool parts. You could do the wood rings inside the legs like the picture you posted, but use the metal rings outside the legs

 

[Willemjm]

Here we go.

I was going to do just 6 segments with 30 degree angles and join them with a tongue and groove joint cut on the shaper. But I have a ton of offcuts which saves lumber.

So two rings of segmented joints it will be.

Picture of the first ring glue up

15 degree cut 12 pieces on the miter saw, real simple using a stop to make sure the are the same. Always a good test to check the accuracy of you saw, mine is good.

Interesting, I did an Excel worksheet way back to calculate all the dimensions and angles for both segmented turning and staves. Then I looked last night and there are a bunch of free programs online. Used one and my outer dimension is 3/8” off and inner 3/4”. Guess I will be back to my old worksheet.

 

[FlyingRon]

I have a strange feeling of Deja Vu. That's exactly the same miter saw I have, except mine still has the original plastic handle on the angle setting.

 

[nn4jw]

I have a strange feeling of Deja Vu. That's exactly the same miter saw I have, except mine still has the original plastic handle on the angle setting.

Likewise, if that's the 12" model.

 

[Berta]

Me too, but I made a zero clearance insert for mine.

 

[Jeff]

Then I looked last night and there are a bunch of free programs online. Used one and my outer dimension is 3/8” off and inner 3/4”. Guess I will be back to my old worksheet.

.

I went to a segmented workshop at Charlie's awhile back and he had several programs that he recommended for calculating the dimensions accurately. He also cut them on his table saw with a nifty jig that dials in the correct angles accurately.

 

[Willemjm]

Among other things this project is moving along slowly

 

[Jim M.]

Beautiful work so far, BTW when in the heck do you have time for all these projects!

 

[Willemjm]

All those angles, good thing they taught trigonometry where I went to school.

The question where I get time. Well, I am retarded (retired) and I guess the shop keeps me out of trouble.

 

[Mike Davis]

I never understood or even saw a use for trig until I got into precision machining class. The instructor made it all too clear...

 

[Jeff]

Interesting. I've been following this for quite awhile. How do the seats swivel underneath the seat like a lazy susan in your design?

 

[Willemjm]

Interesting. I've been following this for quite awhile. How do the seats swivel underneath the seat like a lazy susan in your design?

 

[Willemjm]

To stain or not.

I generally only work wood in it’s natural colors.

Stained trim me chair with Cherry color and I hate it! The natural American Beech looked so much nicer.

What do you think?

 

[Willemjm]

Another project completed.

American Beech, black leather, swivels and conversion varnish.

Next one is a table with six chairs, will post the finals, I am sure all are bored with my build threads

 

[Jeff]

Not bored at all. Keep on posting the build threads.

"Stained trim me chair with Cherry color and I hate it! The natural American Beech looked so much nicer."

I like them.

What happened to the one with cherry stain that you hated? What is conversion varnish and which brand did you use? Sprayed?

 

[Willemjm]

Not bored at all. Keep on posting the build threads.

"Stained trim me chair with Cherry color and I hate it! The natural American Beech looked so much nicer."

I like them.

What happened to the one with cherry stain that you hated? What is conversion varnish and which brand did you use? Sprayed?

I sanded out the stain on the first chair as best as I could. I use Lenmar, it's a professional finish, two part, sprayed. There are many others, generally not available in retail.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

Looks great Willem. I love seeing things like this, definitely not boring.