Suggestions Needed

[drw]

I am in the process of repairing the top of a cedar chest that has been in the family since the 1940's (supposedly it was the first piece furniture my parents bought). The chest now belongs to my son, but in the process of moving, one of his fellow marines accidentally cut a deep gouge on the top. There wasn't much veneer left on the top; I recall that my mother refinished the top sometime while I was in college. That said, in order to smooth out the gouge, I went through portions of the remaining veneer. I have purchased 2 ply, board-on-board, quarter-sawn cherry veneer to totally resurface the top. The veneer is cut oversized, so I will need to trim it back once it is bonded to the top. Trimming will not be a problem on the back where the edge is 90 degrees, but the front and sides are trimmed in moulding; moreover, the top sits proud of the moulding by aprox. 1/16". So, my issue is what is the best way to trim the veneer back to the existing edge? The following pictures are not great, but maybe it will help to visualize the problem.

 

[creasman]

I did a similar project to fix a top by gluing the veneer, then using a router table with a matching profile to redo the edge profile. This removed about 1/32" of the profile in the process, but gave me the finished look I wanted. That approach might work for you as well since your edging appears to be solid cherry.

Also, I didn't use a veneer hammer and do it the traditional way. I used a vacuum press to glue the veneer.

Jim

 

[Oka]

Maybe there is an easier way than what I am about to say.
I would cut back about an 1/16-1/8 from the edge with a Dremal or tiny saw just shy of the veneer depth. Then you can use a chisel to clean up to the marked edge line or possibly use a #79 rabbet plane to clean up. The real trick and issue is making that line straight so when you apply the new piece the line does not look jagged

 

[Cuthriell]

Is it possible to remove the moulding? And reinstall after the top veneer has been installed.

 

[drw]

I did a similar project to fix a top by gluing the veneer, then using a router table with a matching profile to redo the edge profile. This removed about 1/32" of the profile in the process, but gave me the finished look I wanted. That approach might work for you as well since your edging appears to be solid cherry.

Also, I didn't use a veneer hammer and do it the traditional way. I used a vacuum press to glue the veneer.

Jim

Jim, redoing the edge profile may be an option, I had not thought about that. At the moment, I am planning to use contact cement to bond the the veneer; vacuuming pressing is more fool proof. Thank you for the suggestion!

 

[drw]

Maybe there is an easier way than what I am about to say.
I would cut back about an 1/16-1/8 from the edge with a Dremal or tiny saw just shy of the veneer depth. Then you can use a chisel to clean up to the marked edge line or possibly use a #79 revert plane to clean up. The real trick and issue is making that line straight so when you apply the new piece the line does not look jagged

Casey, you and I are thinking along a similar line; but at this point I am not sure I am up to the task.

 

[drw]

Is it possible to remove the moulding? And reinstall after the top veneer has been installed.

I have looked at this possibility (and will look again), but the moulding is a bit fragile (thin) along the edge of the underside.

 

[chris_goris]

I would roughly trim it back to the contact edge , leaving 1/8" or so with a knife then hand sand it back to the trim profile from there. a piece of 120 wrapped around a block of wood will make quick work of it.

 

[Phil S]

My process would be glue the veneer on overlapping the old by a bit. Setup a table saw to cut just shy of thru the veneer - a test cut or two with a practice board will help. then cut the final few thousandths with a knife
A router with an upcut bit and fence will also work.
My slider table saw would help. You can use it anytime

 

[JohnnyR]

Another option is to cut off the molding by cutting inside it, leaving it intact, glue on an 1/8" strip to compensate for the kerf, add the veneer and glue the molding back on. You're welcome to borrow/use my vacuum press.