Strange Issue with SCMS

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patlaw

Mike
Corporate Member
What blade do you have on it? Type of saw?
Freud Diablo - new. Hitachi C8FSE - new. The saw cut effortlessly an hour before this problem occurred.

Only three things I can think of if it burn on both sides and you're 100% confident on your fence (by the way they will move or slip sometimes, especially with a hold down pulling upwards on the fence if that is where your's is attached.

1) Outrigger supports high. Causes the blade to pinch.
It was just the table, but I will repeat my stops tomorrow.

2) Extreme wood binding.
That's what I'm hoping it is. I'll know when I cut a different board tomorrow.

3) Dull crappy blade.
The blade's new, and it had cut like butter. I'll get a better look at it in the sunlight.

But as a further point concerning the slide torquing. You will not see it unless you toy with it a bit. I discovered mine by cutting hard maple then pulling the slide back out and checking on the deflection against the piece I just cut by simulating the cut and trying slightly different strokes with the saw. I have tried this "experiment" on a lot of models (excluding the new bosch and a festool, never touched those) and found it in every slider model.
Well, next time you're in NC, you can help me out!

Thanks
 

SubGuy

Administrator
Zach
I have the same brand 12" model. I have the issue I described. I don't think it's your blade. That is a good blade and as long as you didn't hit something with it, should not be a issue. Time for some insanity, tomorrow try again. You know what to look for. Let us know.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
You said the saw was new. Is this the first time you have used the slider feature? Was the burning along the entire cut or more towards the fence? How are using the slide feature, are you cutting from the front or back of the board. I will be around the shop all day, bring it by and we can get it checked out.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Could be that particular board has internal stresses causing it to close up on the blade as it is being cut.
try a different board or a cut off from one of the boards cut earlier in the day.
Im with Mike on this one.... nothing else changed and wood is well, wood, it moves ALOT! A saw blade buried in a cut is exactly like a disk brake, It doesnt take a lot of force to cause it to clamp down hard, so any little movement can cause binding and burning. You mentioned the wood was pine? Southern yellow pine? If it is SYP, that would explain a lot.
 

DaveD

New User
Dave
Saw out on deck means you probably have it plugged into a gfci outlet. They used to wire some of those GFCIs together with outlets in one or more bathrooms, and/or maybe an outlet in the garage. It wouldn't surprise me if its an electrical problem. Marginal voltage if the outlets are piggybacked and something like a hair dryer being used off another outlet or lousy connections going through heating/cooling cycles because of current draw of saw. Stupid stab back connections could also be the problem.

Marginal extension cord may also contribute. If it happens again, hurry up and hook it up to a entirely different outlet that is in the house. Use a heavy, 12 gauge cord or no extension cord. Or start using a heavy duty extension cord from a inside outlet as a normal course of business.

My money says it's not the saw unless it got dropped from the first time you used it that day to the time of failure. Other option could be scrap piece of wood wedged up in the blade cover somewhere and binding up the blade.

Just about any saw and/or blade should be able to cut a piece of 1x10 shelving easily.
 

patlaw

Mike
Corporate Member
I just cut the board again, and it appears to have cut fine. Here's what the burned cut looked like:

Burned Board NCWW.jpg

It is plugged into a GFCI outlet. Nothing else is plugged into the outlet. The saw has not been dropped. The blade does not wobble when it spins. The width of the kerf cuts is accurate. There is no pitch on the blade that I can see.

Maybe it's the wood. Then again, it's just shelving board. Who knows? Thanks for the suggestions, and Phil, thank you very much for the offer to bring it over. If the problem appears again, I'll definitely take you up on it. (There are some other questions I'd like to ask you, too!)
 

mark2

Mark
Corporate Member
"The boards were securely against the fence. They were locked down on the feed side. The outfeed side as not clamped."

How was the board supported on the unclamped end? looking at the burn marks makes it look as if it was dropping a bit to bind on the blade (clean at start of cut and looks to be more burnt along the edge that was facing down during the cut,if I am reading the burn correctly)
 

patlaw

Mike
Corporate Member
How was the board supported on the unclamped end? looking at the burn marks makes it look as if it was dropping a bit to bind on the blade (clean at start of cut and looks to be more burnt along the edge that was facing down during the cut,if I am reading the burn correctly)
They were supported by the table. The cutoff piece was not big, but maybe that was the problem. It's still a mystery to me.
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
Had the same problem this weekend cutting moulding. Checked the extension cord and it was warm. Switched to a heavier cord and that fixed it.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Simply flip the board over and make another cut. This would help to rule out wood binding against the tables.
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
That pic is symptomatic of the blade staying in one place too long. It could be caused by not pushing smoothly and quickly enough. And the reasons for that are caused by resistance because of; board tension/hardness, board shifting during the cut, not enough power when blade is fully engaged.

Make 3-4 cuts quickly (make thin slices for testing). Grab the cord at the plug. If it's really warm, the problem is probably electrical. Otherwise, it's probably mechanical.
 
Last edited:

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Since you've still only mentioned the problem with a single board, process of elimination indicates the board, not the saw.

I'm with Mike on this. I've had a board with internal stress clamp down so hard on a blade that I thought I never would free it from the saw. It happens.
 

SubGuy

Administrator
Zach
Agree. More so, I think it was something along the lines of wood movement and temperature. Sometimes when you release that stress, you get burn. Happens to everyone. If it happens again exactly the same, then start looking for your problem.

Since you've still only mentioned the problem with a single board, process of elimination indicates the board, not the saw.

I'm with Mike on this. I've had a board with internal stress clamp down so hard on a blade that I thought I never would free it from the saw. It happens.
 

Skymaster

New User
Jack
I agree that most probable it was the board,however one thing has not been mentioned as far as I can read, check that the blade is square to the table.If the head is out of square you will get that result also.Check your cuts with a good square, even a slight bit out will bind on some tension wood.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Still could be the saw as the problem only occurred as he used the slide function, not the chop function. Check the fence for straightness, they tend to bow back in the middle and that can cause this problem. Put a good straight edge along the fence, there should not be a gap in the middle. Also when you cut using the slide function cut from the front to the back.
Lift, slide out, push down, then cut by pushing back.
 
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