Staircase Saw

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
A staircase saw (sometimes called a stair saw) was traditionally used for cutting the slots for the treads and risers into the stringer when building a stair case. There isn't much call for this usage in modern home building. However, I was interested in having a saw I could use to cut dados, including stop dados (a dado that doesn't go all the way across a board). After a brief internet search for ideas I came across an old English staircase saw with an adjustable depth stop. The website provided measurements and very detailed pictures so I decided to have a go at making one.

My version is basically the same dimensions, with some minor variations. I ordered the brass and steel bar stock and with some patience managed to saw and file out all the parts. The screw knobs are made from brass cabinet door hardware.
  1. The saw body is made from purple heart, planed to 7/8" thick. The overall length is about 14". You can find a full set of printable saw handle templates here. I modified one of these slightly to get the handle I wanted.
  2. It requires two adjustment screws. Each assemble is made from brass bar stock, cabinet door knobs and a 1/4" threaded rod.
  3. The depth stop has a sole made from 1/4" x 1/2" steel bar stock. The adjusters screw into the vertical brass bars attached to the sole. I dovetailed the brass and steel to match and then peened the brass to fasten it to the steel.
  4. A 1/8" x 2" brass plate attaches over the blade to act as a stiffener.
  5. The blade is made from an old handsaw. I kept the 11 TPI from the handsaw, but refiled each tooth so the rake is now 30 degrees. This allows the saw to cut equally well on both the push and pull stroke. This feature was present in many of the antique versions, including the one I was copying. Increasing the rake also gives the saw a smoother cut.
Staircase Saw Parts.jpg


Here's how it looks assembled.

IMG_2583.JPG

IMG_2584.JPG


I've made a few practice cuts. The saw definitely has a learning curve. The first surprise is the weight. It's not a light saw. Given mine is a duplicate in materials and size I'm sure this was true of the original as well. The trick is to simply keep it vertical and move the saw back and forth, letting the weight carry it into the wood.

On the first pass I only sharpened the blade and did not set the teeth. Since I wasn't cutting very deep (max depth is 5/8") I wanted to see if having a set was necessary. In the end I decided to give the blade a little set. It makes sawing easier without sacrificing any of the smoothness. I was able to cut to a line without any noticeable tear-out.

I don't believe the original saw was intended for building staircases. The blade is simply too long. At 9" it would exceed the riser on most staircases, making it too long to work. My view is it was created for cutting dados.

I'm already thinking about building a smaller, lighter version to see how it does. I need to spend some more time using this one first, though.
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
That’s a beautiful saw Jim. This is version that I’m most used to. It is adjustable from an eighth to a quarter on an inch. I use it for cutting dados. The version you have built should serve you well for a life time.
BFD58A7E-BC9A-4231-B9F8-2290C46616C2.jpeg
 

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
I've never seen a stair saw like that one.
Neither had I until I found that website. I really believe this should be called a dado saw. The blade is too long to make it practical for cutting grooves in staircase stringers.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
That's an interesting saw which I knew nothing about or how it was used. A little sleuthing around turned up some interesting details about them.


This is a shorter version and reversing the saw blade allows it to be used on the pull stroke. I couldn't find CME handworks so maybe they're no longer in business.

 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
  1. The depth stop has a sole made from 1/4" x 1/2" steel bar stock. The adjusters screw into the vertical brass bars attached to the sole. I dovetailed the brass and steel to match and then peened the brass to fasten it to the steel.[QUOTE
 

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
I've been meaning to post an update to this thread. Seems I may have stumbled on the original use of this type of saw. I came across an article in The Gristmill (No 184, page 45), the quarterly newsletter for the Mid-West Tool Collectors Association, about a similar saw that was used in the making of coffins. It's a saw for making the kerfs in the coffin's sides to give it that classic coffin shape.

The saw certainly could have had multiple uses. However, coffin making offered a steady income for joiners in pre-industrial times. I'm told these were often made quickly upon request. The side boards were in the neighborhood of 7/8" thick and needed to have several kerfs sawn at the point where the bend was required. The original saw I was copying had about 4-5 TPI and would have made quick work of cutting a kerf. The depth stop prevented the user from sawing too far and ruining the board. A skilled joiner could probably make a complete coffin in a couple of hours.
 
Last edited:

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
That’s a beautiful saw Jim. This is version that I’m most used to. It is adjustable from an eighth to a quarter on an inch. I use it for cutting dados. The version you have built should serve you well for a life time.View attachment 197326
Richard, do you have a picture of the other side of your saw or maybe a thread? (I feel like you posted about this some time ago???)
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Jim, your work is always impressive so the craftsmanship evidenced in this saw is no surprise. Beautiful work; thank you for sharing.
 

Scott H

Scott
User
The saw is gorgeous -- you mention you are able to cut a stopped dado with it, if you have time can you describe the procedure for that? Is it as simple as stopping the saw at the same point each stroke with a stop or do you have to mortise out the end of the dado first or something else?
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
Richard, do you have a picture of the other side of your saw or maybe a thread? (I feel like you posted about this some time ago???)
854F03CE-1F2C-43C8-8973-2DD162DE89E6.jpeg

0258C06B-D6D4-457C-9539-B4379AFDA552.jpeg

6F75A6E5-078F-4FA6-948B-58F7ADABF444.jpeg

Yep, you had seen it before Hank. It was one of the tools I used to build this little thing. Does anyone know who that hobo is at the bench?
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
AH!
A mind is a terrible thing to waste... but I do it every day!

I was thinking your version was adjustable, but I see it is not.

I think you made yours as a "tool for a tool" as a kerfing saw for your frame saw, or was that another one?
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
AH!
A mind is a terrible thing to waste... but I do it every day!

I was thinking your version was adjustable, but I see it is not.

I think you made yours as a "tool for a tool" as a kerfing saw for your frame saw, or was that another one?
Actually it is adjustable, the blade is slotted.
 

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
The saw is gorgeous -- you mention you are able to cut a stopped dado with it, if you have time can you describe the procedure for that? Is it as simple as stopping the saw at the same point each stroke with a stop or do you have to mortise out the end of the dado first or something else?
Thanks, Scott. This is the process I use for cutting stopped dados with the saw. Note, in the pictures I'm using the smaller of the two saws, but the process is the same. Apologies for the sad piece of wood in the pictures. I just grabbed a piece out of the scrap pile for the demonstration.

I begin by drilling a hole to the depth of the dado at the point where the dado should stop. Then I scribe the sides of the dado using a marking knife.
IMG_3311.JPG


Next step is to use a chisel to square up the end of the dado. Note the small v-cut at the side where each dado cut will end. I push straight down with the chisel and then cut in from the middle to create a shoulder that helps guide the saw as I'm starting the cut.
1650821278408.png


Now, it's just a matter of sawing each side of the dado. These saws are made so it's easy to see the saw cutting from the left side. However, the blade is not easily visible on the right side because of the depth stop and saw body. For this reason I'm always cutting the left side of the dado. This requires starting the cut with the toe of the saw when the dado is away from you, then reversing the board to cut the other side (now also on the left but with the stopped end closest to you) with the heel of the saw.

The saw is tilted as I start the cut and I gradually lower it until I'm cutting level all the way across. Once the saw is cutting the full length, just keep going until the depth stop prevents it from going deeper. As you do this the blade may bump against the stopped end. If the end needs to be crisp and clean, then drill the hole about 1/8" from the "true" end, then come back with a chisel later to clean it up.
1650821606121.png
1650821631935.png


The final step is with a chisel and router plane. The chisel removes the bulk of the waste and the router plane leaves a uniform depth and flat bottom.
IMG_3318.JPG
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top