A few weeks ago someone asked about spray guns for wood finishes, and a SprayIt 33000 LVLP gun was recommended; I have and use this gun.
Here's the link:
Seeking HVLP gun advice
OP later asked if this LVLP gun was capable of spraying latex - because he saw that in his future.
I commented that product choice was paramount (I still stand by that part), and that I had successfully sprayed Sherwin Williams Pro Classic acrylic enamel paint UNDILUTED (because I did not recall adding water; this is the part that needs revisiting).
Golfdad's commentary was :
Well in later work (after this discussion) I tried the experiment; the results spraying this product undiluted (straight out of the can) were acceptable (to me) but the process was not. Comparison on the next coat, which I thinned by 5-15% (by eye, not measured), was that the results were also fine but that the process was easier. Recall that I am not a finishing guru, and this SprayIt 33000 is my only tool and my only spraying experience.
Undiluted the finish delivery was uneven - when the finish was delivered in the flow, it seemed to lay down fine, but the amount latex being delivered was NOT consistent. There were no blobs or anything (i.e. atomization was acceptable), but there were times when there simply was no product in the air stream. That makes laying down a consistent finish much more difficult.
Diluted spraying (done 3 or 4x since the experiment spraying undiluted) has not had any issues.
Note that this was a single experiment and there may have been other issues that caused my results (improper/insufficient gun cleaning prior to first usage with the latex, for example).
So for maybe slightly different reasons than Golfdad described (oh so briefly) I absolutely AGREE with him:
Diluting SW ProClassic Acrylic Latex Enamel before spraying works better (caveat - under the conditions I tested; your own tests likely needed for your own equipment).
Here's the link:
Seeking HVLP gun advice
OP later asked if this LVLP gun was capable of spraying latex - because he saw that in his future.
I commented that product choice was paramount (I still stand by that part), and that I had successfully sprayed Sherwin Williams Pro Classic acrylic enamel paint UNDILUTED (because I did not recall adding water; this is the part that needs revisiting).
Golfdad's commentary was :
Pro Classic won't spray directly. If you do get it to spray, you will probably not have a great finish. (HW edited for clarity, not content)
Well in later work (after this discussion) I tried the experiment; the results spraying this product undiluted (straight out of the can) were acceptable (to me) but the process was not. Comparison on the next coat, which I thinned by 5-15% (by eye, not measured), was that the results were also fine but that the process was easier. Recall that I am not a finishing guru, and this SprayIt 33000 is my only tool and my only spraying experience.
Undiluted the finish delivery was uneven - when the finish was delivered in the flow, it seemed to lay down fine, but the amount latex being delivered was NOT consistent. There were no blobs or anything (i.e. atomization was acceptable), but there were times when there simply was no product in the air stream. That makes laying down a consistent finish much more difficult.
Diluted spraying (done 3 or 4x since the experiment spraying undiluted) has not had any issues.
Note that this was a single experiment and there may have been other issues that caused my results (improper/insufficient gun cleaning prior to first usage with the latex, for example).
So for maybe slightly different reasons than Golfdad described (oh so briefly) I absolutely AGREE with him:
Diluting SW ProClassic Acrylic Latex Enamel before spraying works better (caveat - under the conditions I tested; your own tests likely needed for your own equipment).