The jigsaw does have "drift" which makes running the base (which isn't parallel to the cut-line) against a reference surface an issue.
This is the equivalent of adjusting for blade drift on a stationary bandsaw.
Ideally the cut line would be perfectly parallel to the drawn line at the end of the cut. Close enough.
The pencil line above shows the edges of the jigsaw base.
You can visually see the drift angle in the photo above. The jigsaw is attached with double edge tape.
I was ready to cut the piece of plywood clamped to the edge of the bench with my drift angle adjusted base.
And...... the blade wasn't long enough to go through the plywood and the base. About 1/16" too short. It almost made it. That got me looking at the blade, it was a high TPI blade (didn't want tear out) and when I looked it up, it was a "scrolling blade". I thought that may be the issue. Tried it with a wider blade that isn't made for tight turns and had the same exact issue. I have not tried the wider blade with the drift adjusted. So that was a big let down......
Eventually I fell back on a suggestion from
@farmerbw of using a router and a flush trim bit. That worked very well, first try right out of the gate, no nonsense, no fuss.
Painters tape and super glue in place of double sided tape. This was the first time I tried this. It worked well and was easy to remove without damaging the veneer.
Hooray.
Now to attach the edge banding....... Again......
A little extra material was needed for this little piece of edge banding to compensate for errors.
Last two pieces in the clamps.