Side table - how best to affix the top

[Jeff]

I do intend to finish with a marine spar varnish. I spoke with someone at Klingspor's about this and they have a product they recommend.

What was the product? Epifanes is the top quality marine spar varnish so I'm curious what Klingspor recommended.

 

[photostu]

I honestly don't recall, I have to go back and ask them again. But I will be comparing what they say with Epifanes now.

 

[Grimmy2016]

I use wooden cabinetmaker buttons which allow seasonal movement of your top. They're easy to make but each requires 1 screw to attach it to the underside of the top. I don't know of a method that doesn't involve screws to some extent.

Could you epoxy them to the top instead of screws? or glue.....

 

[photostu]

Technically, yes. But wouldn't movement potentially cause an issue?

 

[Grimmy2016]

Technically, yes. But wouldn't movement potentially cause an issue?

to be clear I was thinking of Jeff's suggestion of the cabinet buttons. Epoxy the buttons to the top and then slot them to the sides. The slots give room for movement but the epoxy keeps them firmly locked to the top.

Just a thought...

 

[photostu]

I'm considering the buttons as well, the longer this thread continues. Less metal on wood. I still think you need a screw with a button, to provide some minimal clamping force.

 

[waynejnc]

I use these figure 8 connectors and they are awesome. Wayne

 

[Jeff]

I'm considering the buttons as well, the longer this thread continues. Less metal on wood. I still think you need a screw with a button, to provide some minimal clamping force.

Yes the buttons require only 1 screw and that's not for clamping force. It just hold the button to the bottom of the table top. NO epoxy glue at all.

Here is a button made from a leftover piece of oak tongue and groove flooring. The button is about 3"l.

 

[TENdriver]

Pictures will be forthcoming for sure!

I tried looking for SS figure 8s, the best I could find was zinc plated steel, which was better than just plain steel. Do you know where I could source this better suited for outdoors?

Stuart, If you can locate some strips of an appropriate gauge stainless stock, you can quickly fabricate the functional equivalent of the purchased figure 8s or even the Z-clips. They’re not that complicated to make and you won’t need that many on your table.

 

[TENdriver]

Yes the buttons require only 1 screw and that's not for clamping force. It just hold the button to the bottom of the table top. NO epoxy glue at all.

Here is a button made from a leftover piece of oak tongue and groove flooring. The button is about 2" l.

View attachment 187823View attachment 187824

I’ve never seen a button like that. Is the grain off by 90 degrees or am I misunderstanding how this one gets used?

 

[Jeff]

I’ve never seen a button like that. Is the grain off by 90 degrees or am I misunderstanding how this one gets used?

The grain direction doesn't matter. See the video that I posted. About 3.5-4.5 minutes into it. And this too...

 

[Grimmy2016]

The grain direction doesn't matter. See the video that I posted. About 3.5-4.5 minutes into it.

I thought the grain direction didnt matter as long as it was plywood. For standard wood you did - which is why he did the break test with the pliers. Or did I misinterpret his meaning?

 

[Jeff]

I thought the grain direction didnt matter as long as it was plywood. For standard wood you did - which is why he did the break test with the pliers. Or did I misinterpret his meaning?

No, he was over-emphasizing his preference for plywood buttons. Yes, his plier test was with the grain and the button tongue broke (no surprise). Pine or other soft woods will do that. Try his demonstration on a hardwood button regardless of the grain orientation.

 

[TENdriver]

No, he was over-emphasizing his preference for plywood buttons. Yes, his plier test was with the grain and the button tongue broke (no surprise). Pine or other soft woods will do that. Try his demonstration on a hardwood button regardless of the grain orientation.

Jeff, I think you’re exactly right about trying a demonstration of this. Unfortunately, I’m unable to undertake the experiment at this time.

Would you be willing to sacrifice some of your oak flooring materials and workshop time to conduct an empirical test of the relative strength of traditional “long-grain buttons” versus “short-grain buttons” you currently have?

 

[Jeff]

I don't mind making another button with a different orientation but what's the point in doing that? If multiple buttons are attached to a table top they aren't going to snap off if someone picks up the table. Each button tongue is in a slot and it's pointless to discuss whether or not the buttons are cut with the long grain or cross grain and which is stronger/better.

I tried your suggested test on the long grain button that I posted in my picture. Sure it broke without much effort as expected.

 

[Hmerkle]

Jeff,
you put a bending moment on that - the test would be a shear test - pressure on the "tongue" of the button holding the body of the button with a screw into the fixture... Then the "tongue" would break and a long-grain button would break at a higher force...

In this application (a relatively small table and somewhat light table top) - it wouldn't be a problem. But if it were a 8/4 kitchen or dining room table, I would want long-grain buttons and likely test if they were capable of carrying the weight when lifted.

 

[Jeff]

That's probably a good idea with a heavier table or just make the buttons from baltic birch plywood. ??????

This table is reclaimed longleaf pine and it's pretty heavy. It's 53" x 42" x 1.25" t and I used the same buttons (long grain, not cross grain). They haven't broken when lifting the table.

Table_base

• Jeff
• Mar 22, 2011

P3210242

• Jeff
• Mar 22, 2011

 

[Gofor]

You do not want to glue the buttons. They (at least half of them) will have to be removed if you want to separate the top from the base for repairs, shipping, etc. Brass screws will suffice in most cases (Best to predrill the holes. I usually also pre-thread the hole almost to depth with a steel screw of the same pitch and diameter.)

 

[ncfromnc]

It will be a solid piece that is glued up.

Are there any options that don't involve screws? I don't mind using the fasteners if they perform the job the best, but if there is a more traditional option, I would love to hear that idea too.
Thank you for the replies thus far

screws are not bad!!!!! Check out the x-rays of Greene and Greene furniture......full of screws. They are the best option for table top installation. Wood movement is a thing!!