Shop build advice
- Thread starter E.Y.
- Start date
I put my central vacuum in a corner as you propose. With the benefit of experience I wish I had put it outside in the least conspicuous place. The 3 HP Oneida cyclone vacuum I have is very noisy, even with an expensive optional muffler. Very, very, little dust escapes the collection drum and what there is could safely be blown away outside the building. The cyclone assembly, muffler, and air filter consumes several costly square feet of floor and wall space, plus the original equipment added purchase cost. I think those combined costs far outweigh the slight additional energy costs to vent the vacuum directly outdoors. Plus, even filtered air might not be as pure as brought-in air from outside. If you do this, consider a small wall vent with a hinged flap over it to allow replacement air to come in.
I"ve tried to post it, but if it has not appeared, here is another try. Thanks for reminding me. "I put my central vacuum in a corner as you propose. With the benefit of experience I wish I had put it outside in the least conspicuous place. The 3 HP Oneida cyclone vacuum I have is very noisy, even with an expensive optional muffler. Very, very, little dust escapes the collection drum and what there is could safely be blown away outside the building. The cyclone assembly, muffler, and air filter consumes several costly square feet of floor and wall space, plus the original equipment added purchase cost. I think those combined costs far outweigh the slight additional energy costs to vent the vacuum directly outdoors. Plus, even filtered air might not be as pure as brought-in air from outside. If you do this, consider a small wall vent with a hinged flap over it to allow replacement air to come in."
Yes
Sealed drawings enough for permit?
What are these and why are they sealed to get a permit?
What are these and why are they sealed to get a permit?
Truss design is required by a registered design professional (architect or engineer) by code (R 802.10.2). Usually, the engineer designing the truss will also worry about the supporting structural components for fears of bracing, snow load, wind load, and up-lift. So buying the truss can often include the rest of the structure, unless you prefer to go through the NC Residential Code and figure it all out yourself.
The only thing I would comment on is electrics, DC and walls.
I would run overhead ducts so you can customize the layout according to your machines.
On the electrics, I highly recommend running surface mounted conduit or flex cable rather than romex, at least for some of the circuits and machine circuits. When I remodelled my shop the electrician suggested I go this way and I'm glad I did. The other nice thing about it is no cutouts for outlets!!
LED lights are probably the only way to go these days.
I went with painted 1/2" osb for the interior walls and I've been happy with it.
I would run overhead ducts so you can customize the layout according to your machines.
On the electrics, I highly recommend running surface mounted conduit or flex cable rather than romex, at least for some of the circuits and machine circuits. When I remodelled my shop the electrician suggested I go this way and I'm glad I did. The other nice thing about it is no cutouts for outlets!!
LED lights are probably the only way to go these days.
I went with painted 1/2" osb for the interior walls and I've been happy with it.
I designed my own shop, but there is nothing structurally tricky about it other than the attic trusses. Its 2x4 construction, 8 foot walls, 16" OC. The trusses are also 16" OC ( I believe NC code allows 24, But I needed 30 foot clear span , load bearing for the attic space to store lumber). I ordered all my lumber from 84 lumber and it was turnkey, they supplied everything I needed from the foundation up. The documentation from the truss company is stamped by a PE and was supplied to the town with the permit package, the same company also sized the LAM beams and certified them for overhead door openings. All of the lumber was delivered on Thursday and the framers were there Friday morning. They put the trusses up ( 58 of them) and had half of the roof deck sheeted in one day, 4 guys and a crane. There is one divider wall and an internal staircase as well. The building was completely dried in, roof on within a week. I am in the process of wiring at the moment , did I mention how much I hate 10ga Romex? its truly hateful stuff!.
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I have half inch sheetrock on the ceiling. Given a second opportunity, it would be 3/4 inch plywood strongly glued and screwed to the trusses. Then I could attach any desired future loads to it. The trusses would need to be engineered accordingly, per guestimated maximum load.
As others have mentioned if you have a design that allows running electric and dust collection under the floor (even better if you can access it later) it's a huge win. Having to get these hookups from a ceiling drop or from a wall location limits your layout options and more importantly introduces trip hazards when electric cords or DC hoses snake across the floor. If you have DC drops from the ceiling and try to locate them next to your machine, for instance next to your tablesaw you'll probably have problems with large stock interfering with the DC drop.
My woodshop is 32X64 over a basement. Some random thoughts:
The most important piece of equipment or design for me is air conditioning. I would give up anything in my shop before going back to my unconditoned shop. Mainly for comfort but also I no longer have to deal with the condensation and flash rusting of cast iron.
Therefore, insulate well. I went with 2x6 stud walls. I went with spray foam in the ceiling, expensive but incredibly effective. It was too expensive to do the walls with it plus I wanted to be able to add wiring easily. Another suggestion is to have them stop the dry wall several inches from the floor. I used 1x12 baseboards. I suggest installing them with screws so you can remove them and run additional wiring for future projects.
If you going with a slab, insulate it well, especially on the perimeter. Consider hydronic floor heat. The pex tubing is cheap so if you can't afford to add the heater now you might in the future. Be SURE you have a good vapor barrier under the slab, I used two.
If you can, place the dust collector out of the shop. Either in basement or separate little building. Mine is in the basement. That noise gets old.
LED lighting. I wanted a minimum of 100 foot candles at workbench height and ended up with more. The older you get the more you need. The electricians razzed me about all the lighting but I wouldn't want a foot candle less. I ordered mine through Bee's Lighting.
Plenty of electrical outlets, both low down and at 4' high. I put a couple even higher where they are inside a cabinet where I have all my battery chargers. If you think you want music at some point, run the speaker wires now. I have security cameras so I ran ethernet cable also.
I used metal roofing (snap-lock, no exposed fasteners).
If I think of other things I will post some later. Good Luck
The most important piece of equipment or design for me is air conditioning. I would give up anything in my shop before going back to my unconditoned shop. Mainly for comfort but also I no longer have to deal with the condensation and flash rusting of cast iron.
Therefore, insulate well. I went with 2x6 stud walls. I went with spray foam in the ceiling, expensive but incredibly effective. It was too expensive to do the walls with it plus I wanted to be able to add wiring easily. Another suggestion is to have them stop the dry wall several inches from the floor. I used 1x12 baseboards. I suggest installing them with screws so you can remove them and run additional wiring for future projects.
If you going with a slab, insulate it well, especially on the perimeter. Consider hydronic floor heat. The pex tubing is cheap so if you can't afford to add the heater now you might in the future. Be SURE you have a good vapor barrier under the slab, I used two.
If you can, place the dust collector out of the shop. Either in basement or separate little building. Mine is in the basement. That noise gets old.
LED lighting. I wanted a minimum of 100 foot candles at workbench height and ended up with more. The older you get the more you need. The electricians razzed me about all the lighting but I wouldn't want a foot candle less. I ordered mine through Bee's Lighting.
Plenty of electrical outlets, both low down and at 4' high. I put a couple even higher where they are inside a cabinet where I have all my battery chargers. If you think you want music at some point, run the speaker wires now. I have security cameras so I ran ethernet cable also.
I used metal roofing (snap-lock, no exposed fasteners).
If I think of other things I will post some later. Good Luck
Steve hall made a pretty good list of questions once you figure out what your requirements are think about what tools /equipment will be in the furture , are you going to have:any 220 power requirements how are furture changes going to effect shop lay out i had built my shop in my head for over 10 years 16 x 28 and now as I look back i would change a few things i built mine around a bunch of oak trees thinking in the summer shade to keep it cooler winter sun to help with heating never thinking about the damm acorns in the fall sounds like you are in a popcorn popper but rember your shop is a money pit i need this and that enjoy your retirement
Yep ... the pole barn suited me as to one-man construction and the style as well. I used mostly rough sawn lumber for the board-batten siding, doors and trim. And using this type material just didn't seem to fit with the stud wall construction.
Ciao ... Dorm
Actually I am building a 24x48 shop at the moment. It is going to be a barn built on piers and stick framed. Alot of planning has gone into this. Just to get off the ground, it had to be designed and drawn up by an architect, plans approved by an engineering firm. They plans had to be submitted to the town for approval and an environmental study and to be done. Acting as my own GC it is a bit easier. The big stuff will be done by contractors, footings, framing, and roof, the rest is all me. It is like putting a big puzzle together. Good luck on your build.
was the architect and engineering firm a town or city requirement??? Thats awful!!!!
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