I"ve tried to post it, but if it has not appeared, here is another try. Thanks for reminding me. "I put my central vacuum in a corner as you propose. With the benefit of experience I wish I had put it outside in the least conspicuous place. The 3 HP Oneida cyclone vacuum I have is very noisy, even with an expensive optional muffler. Very, very, little dust escapes the collection drum and what there is could safely be blown away outside the building. The cyclone assembly, muffler, and air filter consumes several costly square feet of floor and wall space, plus the original equipment added purchase cost. I think those combined costs far outweigh the slight additional energy costs to vent the vacuum directly outdoors. Plus, even filtered air might not be as pure as brought-in air from outside. If you do this, consider a small wall vent with a hinged flap over it to allow replacement air to come in."So where is your reply Marvin?
YesChris, just curious, did your truss manufacturer provide the engineering? Sealed drawings enough for permit?
What are these and why are they sealed to get a permit?
I designed my own shop, but there is nothing structurally tricky about it other than the attic trusses. Its 2x4 construction, 8 foot walls, 16" OC. The trusses are also 16" OC ( I believe NC code allows 24, But I needed 30 foot clear span , load bearing for the attic space to store lumber). I ordered all my lumber from 84 lumber and it was turnkey, they supplied everything I needed from the foundation up. The documentation from the truss company is stamped by a PE and was supplied to the town with the permit package, the same company also sized the LAM beams and certified them for overhead door openings. All of the lumber was delivered on Thursday and the framers were there Friday morning. They put the trusses up ( 58 of them) and had half of the roof deck sheeted in one day, 4 guys and a crane. There is one divider wall and an internal staircase as well. The building was completely dried in, roof on within a week. I am in the process of wiring at the moment , did I mention how much I hate 10ga Romex? its truly hateful stuff!.Truss design is required by a registered design professional (architect or engineer) by code (R 802.10.2). Usually, the engineer designing the truss will also worry about the supporting structural components for fears of bracing, snow load, wind load, and up-lift. So buying the truss can often include the rest of the structure, unless you prefer to go through the NC Residential Code and figure it all out yourself.
Yep ... the pole barn suited me as to one-man construction and the style as well. I used mostly rough sawn lumber for the board-batten siding, doors and trim. And using this type material just didn't seem to fit with the stud wall construction.That looks good! Why did you choose pole over conventional? Can you estimate per foot cost?
was the architect and engineering firm a town or city requirement??? Thats awful!!!!Actually I am building a 24x48 shop at the moment. It is going to be a barn built on piers and stick framed. Alot of planning has gone into this. Just to get off the ground, it had to be designed and drawn up by an architect, plans approved by an engineering firm. They plans had to be submitted to the town for approval and an environmental study and to be done. Acting as my own GC it is a bit easier. The big stuff will be done by contractors, footings, framing, and roof, the rest is all me. It is like putting a big puzzle together. Good luck on your build.