Shelf Pins vs. Shelf Standards

[drw]

I am in the process of building a cherry book case. The plans call for shelf standards inserted in dados, but I was thinking about using shelf pins. That said, before I go down the shelf pin path I wondered if there is any inherent disadvantage (e.g. load limit) with shelf pins? The shelf span is 40" and consist of 3/4 " cherry ply with shelf fronts trimmed with 1.25 inch boards. While I have never heard of a problem with pins, I thought it best to inquire first.

Thank you,
Donn

 

[FredP]

pins look classier.:icon_thum:icon_thum I use shelf standards in shop and garage cabinets because they are easy. my kitchen has pins. a cherry book case deserves pins IMO.:wwink:

 

[bobby g]

+1 on pins. I use the ones that require a 5mm hole.

bobby g

 

[Joe Scharle]

I'm looking at a bookcase I built around 1980, that's loaded with reference books. The whole thing is cheap pine and the pins are wood dowels!
I never thought it would last a year and I'm always amazed at the amount of weight supported by those dowels. All others, I've used the metal pins though.

 

[merrill77]

That said, before I go down the shelf pin path I wondered if there is any inherent disadvantage (e.g. load limit) with shelf pins?

Methinks the shear strength of four 1/4" wood pins, let alone brass, aluminum or steel, is far beyond the weight anyone would put on a bookshelf.

Pins are more work, but I'll agree the row of holes looks alot better than the shelf standard.

 

[drw]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I'll proceed with the pins.

Cheers,
Donn

 

[Canuck]

These pins with sleeves would add a very classy look as well with all of the cherry.:wsmile:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40186&cat=3,43648,43649&ap=1

Wayne

 

[DaveD]

You don't HAVE to drill all the pin holes either. On the last bookcase I built I did some educated guesses with the books currently on hand and only drilled the holes that were needed for the initial setting of the shelves. Much cleaner look (IMHO).

It will probably never see the shelves reset unless the house is sold to someone else.

The shelves with the narrower front edge are the 'adjustable' ones.
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x168/DJDphotos/09040001a.jpg

Here it is 'filled up'
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x168/DJDphotos/10300009.jpg

 

[Joe Scharle]

Donn, I see you're in the neighborhood and I have a homemade pinhole jig here somewhere, if you want some ideas.

 

[Skymaster]

5mm brass pins :gar-Bi:gar-Bi the sleeves are nice looking but do add to the cost. Another downside is that I have yet to find drill bits like those for the pin holes, ie spring loaded with stops, for these sleeves so you have to do way more setup etc.

 

[bobby g]

I recently discovered a neat shelf support made by Hafele with a small knife edge detail that prevents the shelf from slipping. The detail is exaggerated in the catalog illustration. It works great. Just install the shelf and give it a tap at all four support locations.

https://hachol02.hafeleonline.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=19053

part number 282.04.712

bobby g

 

[Gofor]

I built some wide shop cabinets that have some pretty heavy loads in them and used pins. To help support the shelves, I also put a row up the middle of the back (which is also 3/4" ply). As long as the holes are not sloppy, pins hold fine.

I notice your shelf span is 40" wide, which is beyond the usual recommended length for 3/4 material. I would recommend you run one or two rows of pin holes up the back also, if the back is thick enough to hold them, If not using back pins, then stiffen both front and back edges with the 1 1/4" trimming.

From my "lessons-learned library":

1. If using a pin hole jig, make sure it is always referenced from the same edge (i.e top or bottom) and mark the jig on front and back to keep it oriented correctly. Flipping it end to end WILL result in misaligned holes.

2. Just because the store labeled the pins "1/4" diameter", it pays to actually measure them. Evidently, 1/4" is just a random target with some manufacturers. You may need to adjust your drill bit size (which also includes the jig if home-made). IIRC, i used a 15/32" bit on my shop cabinets to get a snug fit.

Go

 

[Cato]

I built a little larger pair of built in's bookcases and used one dadoed shelf on each to keep the case from racking, and then used the shelf pins for the rest of the shelves. Used hardwood face frame and edge banded the shelves to stiffen against sagging.

that worked out really well using the one fixed shelf, and then the adjustable ones w/pins, but I was probably 48"+ on width, so for 40" width not sure if racking would be an issue.

 

[Luckbox72]

I am making my 2nd bookcase and I use a self centering 1/4" drill bit to drill holes and then picked up shelf pins from McFeely's. The first bookcase I ran two rows of holes the entire height of the case only leaving the first and last foot without holes. I thought it would give me the most versatility. Once loaded with books you can't see the holes, but in reality I have never moved the shelves. On the second bookshelf, that I am building now, I have measured out where I want the first shelf drilled two rows of 4 holes on both sides, then measured from the top and did two rows of 3 holes from the top. I then determined where to put my middle two shelves by measuring out equal distance and made two rows of 3 holes. I already like this look better, and it should give me more than enough shelf locations.

Just my experiences.

 

[McRabbet]

I have built them both ways and I personally prefer using shelf pins, particularly the ones that have an "L" shape with the pin protruding from one leg and vinyl pad on the other. These cannot fall out and I've used them with glass shelves as well as wood. In cases where I have used shelf standards (even on commissioned pieces), I have only used them where shorter increment spacing may be needed and have used the lock-in shelf clip supports, again vinyl coated where glass shelves were called for. The tempered glass shelves below are supported on pins.

View image in gallery​

The cabinet below has shelf standards the same color as the case sides and was recessed into a stopped dado that does not extend above or below the end of the standard. The clips support glass shelves not shown here.

View image in gallery​

 

[rbdoby]

I like the look of pin myself though I have used both pins and standards. Currently I'm building an entertainment center with adjustable shelves. I used the pins like McRabbet suggested. I made a jig from some 3/4" plywood with 1/2" holes spaced 1' on center. Used a plunge router with a 1/2" collar and a 1/4" spiral up cut bit to make the holes for the pins. Works a lot quicker than a drill and is easier to control the depth of the holes.

Rick Doby

 

[drw]

Rob,
You do beautiful work, thank you for sharing...and thank you for the advice.

Donn

 

[mike_wood]

I suggest, from experience, you practice drilling the holes for the pins to avoid tear out. To me it is hard to drill them and make sure the holes are neatly done. I've never been completely satisfied with the results I get.

 

[nelsone]

As for drilling the holes, the best method I have found is using a plunge router with an up cut spiral bit and a shelf hole pattern. Holes are guaranteed square and, with a guide bushing, the line up perfectly. Much better than trying to use a drill IMO!

This looks like the jig I use.

 

[Skymaster]

Agree router is the way to go, however using a 690 type router is soooooooo clumsy, I am still looking for a small plunge router than can take the PC guide bushings or similar so I can give up my drill :nah: